flatrate Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 I personally think an OS30 is a waste of money, a well balanced STRAIGHT stock crank and bearing clearances set on the looser side of the stock clearance will be fine.. Engines fail for a reason, its not because the components used were not good enough.. oil squirters are pointless in a motor using forged pistons, and are actually removed from lots of engine builds.. The block strength doesn't come into play with the power you were making/potentially could have made.. The T04Z on an RB30 would be lucky to get to 750whp and you were not even pushing it hard from what i have read.. I would get another crank, locate a GOOD machine shop and get your hands dirty, Having RIPS build you a motor from across the world seems a bit ridiculous, no reason a machinist locally couldn't handle the job. I hope you stay on the RB30 train, you have a very nice setup and car. Keep this next motor simple, you don't need a fully countered crank or a deck plated N1 block etc to make the power your after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 I personally think an OS30 is a waste of money, a well balanced STRAIGHT stock crank and bearing clearances set on the looser side of the stock clearance will be fine.. Engines fail for a reason, its not because the components used were not good enough.. oil squirters are pointless in a motor using forged pistons, and are actually removed from lots of engine builds.. The block strength doesn't come into play with the power you were making/potentially could have made.. The T04Z on an RB30 would be lucky to get to 750whp and you were not even pushing it hard from what i have read.. I would get another crank, locate a GOOD machine shop and get your hands dirty, Having RIPS build you a motor from across the world seems a bit ridiculous, no reason a machinist locally couldn't handle the job. I hope you stay on the RB30 train, you have a very nice setup and car. Keep this next motor simple, you don't need a fully countered crank or a deck plated N1 block etc to make the power your after. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Yea, I was planning on a bigger turbo down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 well,,,,,where are you at in this issue? Hope some things are happening! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 Just going to put it back together and blow it up. Here I am deburring the block. I should have took more pics of this before. As far as castings go it was pretty flaky. I the corner you could drag a pick over it and get shavings/casting grit, whatever you want to call it to come off. Mains back together, everthing was mixed down to the tens of thousands and confirmed by plastiguage, just to be sure. 2-5 rods back in, kept number 6 out so i could balance the new rod to the old ones. The new rod was 4 grams heavier. Now its 0 grams heavier. Builders typically call within 4 grams "Balanced". Quick laugh using my "Specialty" dead blow. Kind of Ironic looking. Number one after 20+ mic jobs by me and double checked by 4 other machinist. we found 2 tenths of a thousdanth of taper that was it. no out of round or anything. This was the loosest. Everything elese was .00018 vs .00020, which is really what i would rather see on all of them with this big ass tomei oil pump. Number 1 rod was plastigauged every 45 degrees of rotation too, cause why not... All ring gaps where checked while at it. All good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 Hope things go better this time I'm still planning an RB26 for mine but having seen your problems I am now considering a 2JZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 14, 2013 Author Share Posted August 14, 2013 If i didnt care about keeping it nissan i would defiantly do a 2jz. LOT cheaper and easier to get stuff for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Got to start degreeing the cams again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 That wasn't too painful was it? Is the motor fresh and ready to geaux again... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tooquick260 Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatrate Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 RB's are great engines and are very durable I know your not really believing this right now, but there are lots of people out there doing it big on stock blocks even and having great luck. My Built RB25 has been together for 3 years now, it doesn't have any issues! I beat it quite regularly and rev it to 8500 RPM its got 12k miles on the clock.. doesn't leak burn or smoke a drop of oil.. i've broken a R200 pinion and buggered up a couple insert springs in the trans but no motor issues.. I built my motor in my garage with all the machine work done local.. I've built quite a few engines so i have some experience at it...I'm no PRO either, but have a little confidence buddy!! Is a 2JZ a better engine? Yes, for someone looking north of 1kwhp id say so.. but there really not much cheaper to build IMO What are you going to do with the oiling setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 20, 2013 Author Share Posted August 20, 2013 Keeping everything how it was. I took out 1 washer in the oil pump to bump the pressure back up a hair. The Tomei pump flows alot of oil. Without any washers under the bolt (not shims under the spring to increase pressure), it would idle at about 85 psi and be above 100 at anything over idle. i put like 4 washers on it and got the pressure down to about 45 at idle and 80 at a 2700rpm cruise. Nothing much more I can do with the oil upgrades undles I went with a Ross external setup which I dont think I want to do, keep my ac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 You had over 100psi of oil pressure at anything over idle? That's way too much no wonder the bottom end was shot. You sucked every bit of oil out of the pan. I would put money on that you were causing cavitation or foaming the oil. Not good. The oil pump can't flow foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatrate Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have a Tomei pump myself, i installed it how it came out of the box.. i get about 25psi at a hot Idle and about 60psi at a 3k cruise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat1 Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 I have a Tomei pump myself, i installed it how it came out of the box.. i get about 25psi at a hot Idle and about 60psi at a 3k cruise That's normal oil pressure. At over 100 psi I'm surprised you haven't blown any oil filters up. I've seen one go @120 psi and that was a mess. It was a crappy fram filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flatrate Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 (edited) That's normal oil pressure. At over 100 psi I'm surprised you haven't blown any oil filters up. I've seen one go @120 psi and that was a mess. It was a crappy fram filter. Yes that's normal, however i don't have 4 washers shimming the pump.. something is goofy there.. Doesn't it only come with 3 washers all of them different thickness? i cant remember. There is no reason to have anything more than 80-90 psi max RPM hot oil pressure.. I also don't get how it lowered oil pressure at an idle... those shims are for the relief valve if i'm not mistaken Edited August 21, 2013 by flatrate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 21, 2013 Author Share Posted August 21, 2013 Washers under the bolt head reduce pressure, shims under the springs increase pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Ill chime in with regards to oil pressure. I run a Peterson external oil pump. Current settings are about 30psi idle and about 65psi around 3000rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted August 22, 2013 Author Share Posted August 22, 2013 (edited) Its not uncommon at all for tomei pumps to be 60-70 idle and 100+ above 3k. Even my N1 pump on my stock rb26 pumped around 50-60 at idle. Edited August 22, 2013 by ZT-R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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