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Looking at flares, non-fiberglass....


Bob_H

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Guest Anonymous

Why not consider fiberglass fenders with flares or fiberglass fenders with bonded on flares. Welding steel flares to steel fenders sounds great but the welding heat warpage can be a pita and you still have to grind off the protruding bead. I would rather bond on fiber glass flares to fiberglass fenders than sweat with the steel to steel bonding with heat..The problem with fenders are they are a PITA and $ to ship by truck. Member BQR 280 snared me some flared fiberglass in Wisconsin and cut them in two and shipped them FED X. I doubt without his help, I would have ever located these wide flared fenders in my home state. I agree bonding fiberglass to metal is short term.

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Guest timhypo
Originally posted by Carlissimo:

If done right fiberglass flares don't crack. I have had mine for many years...no cracks.

 

Here is what my 265-50/15s look like on 10 inch wheels inside 4 inch flares. The hub is 4 inches in from the inside of the rim.

 

See more pictures here: http://home.mindspring.com/~crao/index.html.

What kind of flares are those? I like the way they don't take away from the lines of the car too badly.
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Bob...you need to talk with Terry (BlueOvalZ) about fiberglass flairs. I built mine and they are just fine. Terry gave me the low down and after some practice I had no problem. Seriously doubt they will ever crack...And, they are not small...they measure 76 1/2" from outer flair to outer flair. Terry is very accomplished, you should really talk with him, prior to making a final decision on metal only flairs. Good luck.

 

Comps, VAN

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First,

Thanks for the input so far. Second, I will not be the one installing any of these. That is one big appeal of the 432 flares as they are "bolt on" to an extent and really can't be screwed up. What I may do for now,(until the car is ready for a re-paint), is get the 432's and install them. I would like to see how much of the fender is cut to accomodate the flare,(well, how much is cut to clear a wider tire is more accurate). And any thoughts on treating the cut metal edge so that it won't start rusting for at least a year, possibly two?

And here is a picture to love:

flare1.jpg

And the sharpest looking car I have seen yet. I think I may model my car after this one,(the flare look and wheels):

restoz15.jpg

I would love some more info on this car? Anyone?

-Bob

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Bob, I'm quite positive those flares on that trick Z are not the same 432 flares.

 

I'm totally with you on the 432's though. The fact that they bolt on surely simplify things for those of us not well versed in bodywork. I'm going that very same route even though my dream would have been something from VR Engineering, but the cost of just the kit was so high relative to what I have to spend, the bolt on flares looked better and better.

 

Davy

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Oh, sorry for the confusion. I know they are not the same flares. I just really like the look of that car. It is the first one I have seen that really fills out the flares. My setup will do that by virtue of the width.

-bob

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Well, some of you know I am looking at some wild suspension setups. Well, after much measuring, my stock width tire to tire edge is just under 65 inches. The setup I am looking at is about 67-69 depending on tire/wheel setup. And I may be able to get a more positve offest as well but I want to limit that so I don't kill turning radius by hitting the tires on the tie rods.

So the two I am considering are as such:

Classic Datsun 432 bolt on flares

And the metal flares from Victoria British.

Hybrid z thread on this

I do not want fiberglass flares that are bonded to metal, because of the future cracking potential. Are there any other kinds of flare setups that I can look at? I like the 432 style flares because they are a bolt on type. However, I would like to see some pics of them on a car where the tires/rims are truely at the edge of the flares. As I see it, I need about 2-3 more inches outside clearance front and rear.

I appreciate all input and pictures are greatly apprecaited.

-Bob

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Bob, I have a pair of the Victoria Brittish Steel front flares if you would like to look at them... Also, I'm a distributor for VB, so I can likely save you a few dollars on them if you'd like for me to get them for you...

 

Mike

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Hey guys I think those flares came from MSA. They are the SCCA flares. I have them, but only on the back. You can see them at my restore site. I still have the fronts and would sell cheap...you pay shipping. I went with the Jim Cook front flares. Its all on the site...

 

CorZette

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At anyrate, I have just decided to give these flares away because Grumpy did such a good deed for me. I feel like doing the same for someone. I have a set of front SCCA style flares to give away for free. You pay shipping. It wouldn't be much, maybe $30 or so from here (Okinawa Military Post) Look in your MSA books and they show a pair front and back. They go for $100 plus shipping for fronts and the same for rears.

 

Corzette

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I think John Perner at CCW has stopped making custom wheels. He stopped by Erik's shop on the way to SEMA and he's focusing on one peice castings. Having gone through custom wheel hell for the past year I think I understand a lot of the problems these vendors have with suppliers.

 

This is what I was told: Almost all of the rim halves used in making custom wheels use 6061 T0 aluminum flat stock. Alcoa was the last supplier manufacturing this specialty material and they stopped in late 2000 when the cost of electricity went through the roof. The available stock was then hoarded by two distributors.

 

Recently, Alcoa has said they are going to start up 6061 T0 flat stock production "soon." The two distributors have started releasing more of their hoarded material so things are easing up a bit. Custom wheel vendors were caught in the middle and have had trouble giving and meeting delivery dates.

 

Again, this is the story I've been told by two different wheel vendors. Whether its true or they were just feeding me BS 'cuz they couldn't get me my wheels, I'm not sure.

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