chrismiller5157 Posted April 17, 2011 Share Posted April 17, 2011 After patients and searching for quite some time now I finally found a 70 240 local to my area that hasn't been complety Eatin alive by the climate. The car was for sell and the owner parted it out So all that is missing is finders, hatch, motor, and interior. Fine by be since being into the early Z's for this long (6-7 years) I have a big collection of S30 parts laying around in the closets of the guests bedroom of my parents house and the garage. As yall may know Power Fab Autos has helped me a lot with my 73 240z, in witch I may have them do some welding work for be, but 80% of the work will be my attempt. Swapping my running an featured (on this site) 83 280zxt platform into this early S30. Seems it won't cast me much of anything to get it running other then nick-naks and the custom fuel cell, and camper plates witch is were PFA will come in for the welding. Looking to bring this Z back from the dead with tastefull mods and upgrading to the power,suspension. Want to keep its original curves as much as possible. I pick it up tommarow (moday 18th) so ill post pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Nice, Can't wait to see it. I'll be starting my 70' (#5837) 240Z project soon as I get the 280Z project to a moveable state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Haha "movable state" haha my sub frame is dropped it is a real shell... no tollers so I'm on the same page as you. Car ie in freakishly good shape! Guy how owned it walked out on his wife of 31 years do she decided 5 months later to sell it. Thsts were I fell in. Will post pics tommarow late when I'm off work. Really think the best first step is to get the dub take and tires back on it...then sending it to be dipped,blasted, & staged for primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 "sub frame'' & # 2262 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 That's a pretty early '70. Take care of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 +1 My 260z is VIN 90. I am don't have the nerve to cut it up and forever mess it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Thsts amazing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Check this out & what do you think? Solventreplacement.com is the company. I have been reading a lot on the web, and seems there is a lot of maxed feelings over what the "right" approach for the surface rust removal is in my 240s condition. (Media blasting,acid dipping,green solvents,sand blasting, ect). I have the chance to really clean and properly build this early 240z and want to do it right the first time around.... From what I've read the cons to the following were- Midia blast, sand blasting- worping in the body. Acid dipping- not properly cleaned after dipping and acid continues to eat the metal. So help Me out let's here dome ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seattlejester Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 I would vote for media blasting, or sand blasting if you want to save a bit. It really does reveal a lot of problem areas that you may not have noticed, and if you are set on doing it right, it is really something you need to take care of. I took a rust hammer (the ones with a pointed tip) to the floor, and determined it was pretty solid and only replaced a corner, while removing the underlining toward the rear quite a bit of the floor came with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) You can use other things to blast it, ie, plastic, walnut shells, etc. or even soda blast it. Out of those, I think soda blasting it would be the safest. I wouldn't use sand. Edited April 19, 2011 by rturbo 930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 There is a place up here in Portland that uses a large scale version of electrolosis to remove all the paint and rust and crap from your car. You might wanna see if you have anything like that near you as it'll get rid of everything and won't remove any metal at all. Other than that, non-abrasive media blasting is your best bet. Sand blasting scares me, I've seen WAY to many people bone that up on metal thicker than an S30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparky Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Plastic or Soda blasting is the best media for paint and coating removal. Soda doesn't really take deep rust out nor does plastic...in the cases of heavy rust they almost always move to a more aggressive media like glass. If you ever talk to a blasting company and they suggest straight sand our you car go someplace else. Be sure that the company your talking too has extensive experience with auto type sheet metal...the more foreign imports they've done the better. Chemical dipping comes in several different varieties from the "friendly" citrus based cleaner or the more aggressive true acid cleansers, call around and ask lots of questions before committing your time money and chassis to the process. It is true that if they do not properly clean the chassis residue can creep from seams and ruin new paint jobs. I believe that most reputable shops know how to do this and will gladly refer you to previous clients for feedback. good luck - I just had my 2002 Soda blasted and it came out great! I had them use plastic on the hood and it was a real PITA to get all the plastic media out of the nooks and crannies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Share Posted April 19, 2011 Ok well look like the car will end up with Stance body shop Here in Houston. Looking at most likly soda or media blasting it. Now what color *_* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Wow #2262, that's awesome, pretty early, please don't chop it up too bad.. Mine's the same age as I am, Nov 70'. Yeah Media blasting it the way to go, but definitely make sure they know your car is thin sheet metal. It shouldn't be a big deal, though since most of the media blasting material won't heat things up like sand does. Find out if they're going to primer it for you when they're done too. If so you might want to make sure whos ever going to paint it for you knows what kind of primer they're going to use since paint is best done as a system. Color is a toughie, My 280Z took a long time to decide on the right color. The 240 is going to go back to the original factory white/white. the interior might be hard to find in white, but It'll look awesome when it's done. Still waiting on your pictures!.. Need some before and after, and some more along the way. Can't wait to see them... Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKLR Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Dry Ice blasting seems too good to be true. Must be expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Ooh interresting idea, I'll have to look up dry ice blasting.. I can't imagine it would be cheaper, but no heat issues, and nothing to cleanup aside from paint dust. hmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 Pretty nifty on the Dry ice blasting, and look it even works on Z's !!!! 240Z Dry Ice Blasted! I don't think it's availible here in ABQ, but it's awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 I forgot to grab a pic of fire wall numbe will tommarow. I guess the thing to do now is get the sub frame back on the car, and wheels so i can push it around easyer and get it to the body shop. I leaves in about 2 weeks for the media blasting and primer. Were thinkig of painting it pearl white, factory 905 red, 919 yellow,901 silver. lets just flip a coin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrismiller5157 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share Posted April 21, 2011 Made up a build sheet for starters. Body- sending car to stance body. Midia blast. Fix all body rust and imperfections. Cut and weld in TTT camber plates. Primer and paint.(factory yellow or silver) Bring car home and start on suspension/brake/wheels swap and build. TTT-Camber plates TTT-Front & rear control arms TTT-Tie rods TTT-Rear end & axle swap kit 300zx TT axles/diff) TTT-F/R strut bars Tokico illumina strut/ground control coilovers 300zx twin turbo brakes swap SS brake lines Run New brake/clutch lines 81 280zx brakes master/booster I have everything as fair as turbo motor/trany/drive shaft/interior/seats/gauges/clutches/ECUs, so all my cost are body (need finders, hatch,windshield,headlight buckets witch I pick up next week ) paint, suspension, wheels, weather striping & wirring. Let's get started!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted April 21, 2011 Share Posted April 21, 2011 I found a place off of 1314 that does resto's. I am fairly impressed with them. Now I just have to save up the cash. I will either go with the original color 820, or go all out with a white or black. Still undecided. I am #806 or 1/70 so I will not cut up my body at all. I am the second owner and have everything from the car ( bill of sale, spare, and seatbelts.... but a beast under the hood..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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