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seattlejester last won the day on March 9

seattlejester had the most liked content!

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About seattlejester

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    Bellevue, WASHINGTON

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  1. seattlejester

    Turbine size matters

    A couple tweaks and changes makes a pretty big difference, the SX-E model of the SX turbo which in theory has the same 7670 profile with a 1 mm bigger compressor inducer and a billet wheel can flow almost 10 more CFM. I'd have to run the numbers to really get a good visual of the change, but a mm or two makes a huge difference when you add it to the outer diameter.
  2. seattlejester

    Exhaust order?

    Thanks, I was pretty sure that was the order, but some people said they were mounting it at the end of their exhaust in lieu of a muffler which seemed odd. I ordered some standard rubber hangers for the tail end, and I figure the drivetrain is together so hopefully no problem there since the exhaust is bolted to that.
  3. seattlejester

    Exhaust order?

    I'm looking to add some components to my exhaust system and maybe re-reoute it. The car is a 2jz powered with a turbo. Right now, after the turbo, it goes to a V-band, that goes straight under the car and has a bullet muffler near the drive shaft and exits right behind the passenger. It is real droney and loud. I've bought a universal catalytic converter and a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and have another v-band on the shelf. My assumption would be to put the cat pretty up stream like under the transmission, then put the resonator near the drive shaft where my muffler is. Is that correct? I think I want another V-band around there so I could drop that section to work on the transmission and the drive shaft. The exhaust is bolted to the transmission at the middle, then at the end it is bolted to the diff mount, do I need to get a flex coupler? The fumes are a lot lessened with the exhaust out the passenger side, but would it be worthwhile to move the exhaust back towards the rear but maybe exit through the rear quarter? I'm not a big fan of the moisture kind of building up in the rear wheel well at the moment, the passenger side is far rustier than the driver side with the exhaust being blown back.
  4. As far as I recall, the JWT ECU throws quite a bit of fuel at the engine, it would also depend on which unit you purchased as they are "optimized" for certain setups, granted as stated they usually over fuel to probably stay on the safe side. Checking your fuel pressure would be pretty important along with timing. Fuel pressure should be checked before the FPR, could be done with just a manual gauge.
  5. seattlejester

    Series 1 240z paint color options/opinions

    Hello, It looks like you posted in the FAQ section. Please take a moment to verify you are in the correct section prior to posting to allow responses to be posted. Regarding your topic, I don't think anyone here will really object. Paint it whatever color you want.
  6. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    For sure, I even got stuck at the gas station when the door linkage fell off and refused to latch. Hopefully quite a bit more sorted before the next event Some pictures from the event, Mods inbound for before the next one, kind of tempted by some new tires as well.
  7. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Appreciate the insight! Car is fueled, pre-registered, camping equipment is packed, just need to grab some food and water.
  8. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    ^Same. Just remove the one on the cylinder and replace it with the datsun one. Makes it very simple.
  9. seattlejester

    2jzge swap in progress

    Good to know on the wheels I do have a soft spot for 5 spokes, is the option when you order direct from us wheel?
  10. seattlejester

    2jzge swap in progress

    Finding someone who says they can weld is pretty easy, do your diligence now rather than later, you want to see some test pieces and make sure he shows you the welds before he goes and covers them up with paint or seam sealer. These are really structural pieces take caution. Stay away from cosmo. It is just a spring setup with an adjustable perch, might as well go with a ground control kit at that point which has way more options, better design, and you can convert to a camber top. Those star wheels are pretty neat, but looks like the most they come with is 5.5 aka 0 offset. You might be able to run them with real thin coilovers, but you would want almost an inch more outboard probably via spacer if you wanted to fill out flares, that is quite a massive weight package. For the effort, I would say trying to find a cd009 over the cd001 you have would be beneficial. I'd almost say making sure the trans fits would be better before you went and welded in the floors, once you weld new floors in it kind of locks the trans tunnel in place makes it harder to stretch out or manipulate. Granted I guess you can't really hammer the trans tunnel without a solid connection to bend around. Looks like you have an earlier Z which means quite a bit of material removal will be required. Might be worth taking a look at how you want everything to fit and then try and build around it rather then weld everything and have to cut it up to make room again. Depending on how bad the floor is it may be easier to just put in a new floor and it will be cheaper to if you just make it flat.
  11. seattlejester

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Query, how long does this usually run? 4-5? I need to get back before 6 on sunday might have to bail early sunday if i make it
  12. seattlejester

    Electric Power Steering Information Compiled

    Definitely learned some things. Socorob's wisdom is on point, really assemble everything before welding. I realized that on more or less final assembly that the datsun shaft sits quite high up in the housing, so I will loose about 1/2 an inch of spline engagement, luckily I maxed out the spline engagement to start with so still more than 1.5 inches or so engaged. I also ended up cutting the saturn shaft housing a bit too close to the motor housing, with the penetration from the welding it seizes pretty hard the last 1/8 inch or so. The motor definitely will need more than this little stamped flange will hold to support the torque assistance anyways so not too concerned. Here is the welded shaft. The plastic is a pretty good idea, but you really need it super tight to make sure you have perfect alignment. My inline switch to the printer started acting up and seized shutting off the final print of the adapter so I had to make do with one that was a bit shorter, took a couple tries, but I'm happy with it. Also managed to press the gear back into the housing. I'll have to remember to grease it up later as quite a bit was wiped off, but the shaft spins freely for now. Here is the datsun column stop welded to the saturn lower column. If I had left about a quarter inch or so more it would have been perfect, but as it is I was already fairly tight on space. Here it is loosely assembled. I definitely did not account for the hump of the motor in my jig, the motor hangs quite low, but I don't thing it should interfere with anything in this orientation. I wanted to leave the control box face down so I could access it to manipulate the potentiometers. Once again socorob is correct that there is a lean to the column from stock. the flange that attaches to the firewall is offset away from the steering wheel inboard towards the trans tunnel. I thought I could get by this, but here I am a bit hesitant as I realize that the upper support can rotate. I hope I made the jig with it in the correct orientation. Luckily this setup is built with some misalignment allowed in the enlarged holes for the dash to column mount and the u joint after the motor which should allow an angle if needed. I definitely think some clamps will be instrumental in holding the bearing support to prevent the that from moving about. I am a bit afraid that there isn't much to prevent the column from sliding forward given there is now hard stop. I'll have to devise something to prevent the collapsible portion from moving until it is needed.
  13. seattlejester

    Uprated clutch master cylinder bore

    Oh and depending on what you get, figure out your adapters ahead of time. The port is american, it comes with two adapters, one for 3/8 IF I think and another one with a 3AN male fitting. I luckily had some banjo M10x1 IF fittings so I was able to use those.
  14. That sounds about right. I think people who run the 16x8's are at a higher height or running more camber. I rub on my 15x7 +0 wheels with 225/50/15. Also that is a consideration as well. Tires can fill out or limit the rim choice. Generally you get about an inch of inboard space with coilovers which seems to be what you have found. I think the absolute max I've seen where a guy could barely fit a coin between the perch and the rim and the rims were very flush with the fender were 16x8 +4 on viczcar if memory serves.
  15. seattlejester


    A lesson is worth whatever they charge. I've taught a few people, some who have said they have welded before, and they also end up way better after about 20-30 minutes with a bit of tutelage. I've taught someone while I was under the car just based off of how the welds sound. Might be worth while going to your local welding shop and seeing if anyone has time to give you a lesson on a day off, or as many have said take a weekend class at a trade school or community college. Or you can lookup local people who have good technique and ask if they have an hour or two you could bother them for or pay to inconvenience.