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seattlejester last won the day on March 9

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About seattlejester

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    Bellevue, WASHINGTON
  1. seattlejester's 1971 240Z

    Sooooooooo... Of the things that I'm solving which include rerouting the wastegate, making a jig for shortened knuckles, redoing much of the wiring, and buttoning up some small annoyances, something new has come into the picture -- a CD009 transmission. A friend and I were talking about grabbing some, and two popped up, so we ended up road tripping down to portland and grabbing them. I figured for a couple hundred, I could buy it and leave it as an option down the road. Oddly enough, a couple days after I paid for them, a local decided to part out his never finished drift build, which happened to have a very well priced stage 4 collins adapter 2jz to CD009 adapter kit. Now picking both of those up was a bit more than I wanted to have just invested in parts, which leads me to the uncomfortable road where I have to make a choice. The CD009 is in many aspects a better transmission. Holds more power, better syncros, 6 gears etc. On the other hand looking at Exposed's build thread his trans ends about 4 inches in front of the fire wall, add a 1/2 inch adapter and you are sitting at about 5 inches in front of the firewall. My current R154 has not given me too many problems. It has fought me a handful of times getting into gear, but can hold my current power level, and will be able to hold whatever I throw at it with a drift motion rebuild. The thing it has going for it is it brings the engine almost in line with the firewall, and the fact it is already in the car. Price wise I need to spend a couple hundred more to fit the CD009 (input shaft, new drive shaft made up, shifter relocator kit, shifter) and a bit of time (new trans mount, new engine mount, extend exhaust). I could probably sell my R154, clutch kit, lightened fly wheel, bell housing adapter, short shifter etc for close to if not more than what I have into the CD009. On the other hand, if I kept the R154, I could profit quite a bit due to how much of a deal I got on both the CD009 and the adapter kit. I wouldn't have to fabricate anything, and if I needed to I could get it upgraded in the future. I just need some other opinions here.
  2. Dutch Z newbie in need of opinions on a 280Z (pictures)

    What socorob says is quite true, a nice sheet of fiberglass might look complete, but would be hiding a lot of rot underneath. Looking from underneath would be a pretty good indicator of repair or at least intactness of the stock floor. Carpet can hide a lot as well, I knew someone that had like 4-5 different colors underneath his carpet, pretty funny because once the carpet and the floor mats were in you couldn't tell at all. Getting a shot with the carpet lifted up might be nice if possible. A good condition stockish 280z would probably fetch 4-7k, sellers will ask for more, but that is probably what they are worth and would sell at readily. A 240z would probably be from 5k-10k in good stock condition. Those numbers are pretty variable, as things like color, interior color, transmissions, maintenance, location among others can play a really big factor. Once something has been "restored" or modified though things kind of go out the window on trying to get a good price estimate. One thing I will note, the painting of the whole engine like that I usually only see on tractor engines or old american motors. Things like the crank pulley being painted is kind of odd to me. While I've cheaped out on a rebuild, I would almost expect at least a new oil pump.
  3. Need help diagnosing noise.

    It is rotational and it is only in reverse correct? It doesn't seem like it is the axle or the axle input into the diff as the movement seems smooth, at least on this side. If we think about it, when you are in reverse short of your revers gear engaging and the drive shaft and wheels spinning the opposite way, the only thing that changes is the load. When you accelerate the rear squats and the front lifts. When you put it in reverse the rear would pickup a little bit. It is rotational so it can only be in a couple of places. I would check your axles or your drive shaft or areas around it for witness marks. You might be lifting the rear up and in reverse and at that angle your axle is rubbing your sway bar or the front of your diff mount might be pushing down and your drive shaft or flange might be contacting your exhaust. A helpful test would be to go up a hill, make sure it is clear and let the car roll backwards with the car in neutral and the car in reverse and see if the noise is only there under one condition or the other. That would help determine if it is load based. Additionally a picture would help here quite a bit an SR20 swap usually entails a transmission swap, means conversion drive shaft, trans mount, lots of things change and it could be something obvious like poor drive shaft engagement or driveshaft angle or something of that nature which would be difficult to guess. It sounds too distinct to be like a wheel bearing grumble or like skipping teeth. Sounds like the axle is hitting bolts or loose control arm mounts skipping with traction, hard to tell.
  4. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Goodness your patience. Looks really clean though!
  5. Restoring post from symbol breakage
  6. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    @rturbo 930 Ah, I remember some steps cut out in the replacement rails, but I didn't really register them as curves, but yes they are in retrospect. In that case you would either have to notch the beam or notch the floor. I think notching the floor would be easier of the two options, but pulling the high spots down forcefully does not seem like a good idea.
  7. Arttu's 240Z Never Ready

    Very excited to see more progress!
  8. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    Hmm, leaving the rails open seems like a not so good idea, usually people connect the back of the rail to the rear subframe area, granted early Z cars don't have a subframe per say and you have a rear cross member so that may not be as applicable. Additionally I thought welding stainless to mild was a pretty bad idea for anything structural.
  9. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    I can't say as I do not have a 280z, but the replacement panels I looked up look to be straight. The frame rail caps from baddog my friend ordered for his 280z were also straight which probably indicates that the floor is suppose to be somewhat straight as well. The 2x3 will sit up, my floor near the pedals is about 1 inch raised because I didn't think about that. I would recommend going with a 1x3 out of the two options. As TUME says the 2x3 will have more strength, but the 1x3 will still be quite a bit stronger than the stock ones depending on how you attach it to the floors and front and rear frame points.
  10. TIG welder recommendation

    ^Good to know. Pretty excited to be learning about a whole new skill set.
  11. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    Happy to report Arttu's build thread is viewable again.
  12. Test

  13. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    Sorry TUME, I haven't heard anything as of yet. It is really just the title that seems problematic. The floors are supposed to be fairly flat, they have some strengthening beading on a couple places, but where the rail goes it should be pretty flat. I've done 2x3 rails. They stick up in the cabin if you want to keep the bottom of the car above the rocker level. I would suggest 1x3 over 2x3 just because you could keep it under the car. There are a couple users who have done full tubular frame rail replacements. I'll see if I can find a few of them.
  14. Dutch Z newbie in need of opinions on a 280Z (pictures)

    Welcome to the forums. The car looks pretty clean, although if it had recent bodywork it could be hiding things. I wish I had some pictures of the undercarriage to look at. Paint can be pretty hard to tell in pictures, so I can't comment too much on that, but I'm struggling to see the fruits of $4000 spent on the interior. The seats look reupholstered, maybe a new shift knob, maybe a new shift boot, a half cap for the dash, along with a center arm rest can be noted. Nice touches, but I'm not sure I'd go throw around $4000 as the number spent on it. At that level I almost expect something big like a new harness or an electric power steering setup or something to make sense of the value. I can't say you are getting a screaming deal or anything, but having someone facilitate the sale, have it shipped to europe, then to you is a pretty hard thing I imagine. I will say your budget is pretty healthy might be worth it to look into how much import and tarifs will cost and message one of the reputable Z shops to see if they have anything or know any customers that might be looking to sell a really clean car.