Miles

Here are are some pictures of a rear strut bar I had a local fab shop make. It was built by Tolle Fab in Sacramento 916-524-5315. Having trouble getting the pictures to load. I'll try again....

98 gsr seat pics:

I just bought a pair of 98 Integra GSR black leather seats for $240 and installed them. They fit perfectly, look like they belong on the car, and the stock seat belts are still usable without modification. Removing the GSR seat rails was a bit of a pain due to the many spot welds that I had to drill out. Once I got the seat rails off I installed two pieces of steel flat stock 1/8" x 4"W 18"L across where the GSR seat rails used to attach at the front and rear of the seat. Then I bolted the Z sliders to the flat stock after a test fit in the car. The GSR seats are much more supportive especially in the lumbar area. Miles

I just spent a day looking for seats at several auto wreckers. I found a set of 2003 Saab 93 seats that should fit in a 240Z. The width is just under 22 inches and the seat rails look like they would be easy to modify. The driver's side seat is powered. No air bags. Price for black leather is $400.00. Has anyone installed 2003 SAAB 93 seats in Z? Miles

I just spent a day looking for seats at several auto wreckers. I found a set of 2003 Saab 93 seats that should fit in a 240Z. The width is just under 22 inches and the seat rails look like they would be easy to modify. The driver's side seat is powered. No air bags. Price $400.00. Has anyone installed 2003 SAAB 93 seats in Z? Miles

I originally posted this question back in 2004 and I am now on my second JY R180 differential. Are there any shops in the Sacramento area that can rebuild a R180? I am considering having a MSA LSD installed at the same time. Also, are there any shops in Sacramento that can rebuild a L24 engine? I can take the engine to Rebello, but would prefer to find an engine builder in Sacramento if possible. Thanks Miles

Using the tool compartment behind the passenger seat has been done by myself and others here. There should be some pictures available. Very easy install. For street use it made it easy to fine tune the brakes. Miles

I recently purchased the Toyota vented 4 x 4 caliper kit from Ross at Modern Motor Sports. I finished installing the MM vented rotor 4 x 4 kit and the brakes are awesome! The pedal is high, firm and modulates well after properly adjusting the booster push rod and taking some slack out of the brake pedal travel. The car hauls down confidently at every stop. Here is what I did: -New (remanufactured) Toyota calipers from a local dealer: $117.00 ea. I clear coated the calipers preserving the clean looking castings. -1979 280zx MC (bench bled) with the booster push rod adjusted to 10mm past the aluminum spacer. -Recent rebuild of rear drum breaks with MSA shoes (look like KVR shoes.) -Adjusted slack out of the brake pedal travel. -3/8†wheel spacers were required because the caliper cylinder blisters just rubbed on the outer edge of the hub of my 15†Eagle rims. I may be able to go to a smaller spacer. I had considered grinding the blister, but I was not sure how much material surrounded the cylinder. Only the fronts lock up in a hard stop. I could never lock the wheels on either of my stock 240Zs. Miles

Charles You may have to experiment with different pads until you find one that fits the type of driving that you do. For everyday street use, with occaisional performance stops, I have found that stock OEM Toyota pads are ok-never any fade. I have used KVR pads on my v8 Z and my stock Z and they work well for everyday street use. I am installing the Toyota vented rotor upgrade this weekend and will be using KVR pads. Miles

This makes sense. Brand new new bearings should not fail in such a short time. My son just told me that he heard the clicking before I installed the new bearings. I'll check the drums and u-joints this week while I am installing the vented rotor kit I just bought from Modern Motor sports. I really did not look forward to pulling the stub axle to replace the bearings. Thanks Miles

I replaced the rear stub axles and bearings with new OEM Nissan parts in my 72 240Z about 18 months ago. I have been noticing a clicking sound coming from the left rear wheel. I hear it best when driving by a wall or fence which reflects the sound back. For example, driving slowly I hear an intermittant clicking sound that is proportional to the wheel speed. At first I thought that it might be some brake hardware like the springs moving around making scratching or clicking noises as the parts rubbed against the brake shoes. Could this be a wheel bearing that is starting to fail? Thanks Miles

Try Arizona Z heavy duty springs for about $200. The spring rates are 180 lb/in front and 200 lb/in rear. I have them on my V8 240Z and my stock 240Z daily driver (future v8). They maintain the stock ride height and greatly improved handling. For my street Zs these AZ springs used with Tokico blues and poly u bushings throughout make for a daily driver that handles really well without spending a huge amount of money. My neighbor put the progressive springs on his 73 240z and then took them off two weeks later because they were too soft. http://www.arizonazcar.com/springs.html Miles

If you are using the 79-83 Toyota calipers with your stock solid non-vented rotors you can use KVR semi-metalic carbon fiber pads p/n m7069. KVR http://www.kvrperformance.com/shop/ Miles

Trevor Thanks for the response. I plan on buying new calipers from a local Toyota dealer and they will not let me return them if I order the wrong set. Miles

I am searching for specific autoparts store part numbers for the calipers reecommended for the vented brake conversion. I am doing the Modern Motor Sports Toyota Vented caliper conversion. The MMS website says to use 89-95 Toyota 4WD pickup calipers or the 4/89-91 Toyota 4Runner calipers stamped S12W. Questions: Parts store guy asked if these are for the V6 4x4 models? Does anyone have the correct p/n for Napa, Autozone, Kragen, Pep Boys or other California parts stores? Thanks Miles

I used Napa tie rod parts before. This time I will buy the OEM outter and inner tie rod assembly ($122 each side). Thanks Miles

I have replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured unit from the Steering Store. The steering rack came with new inner tie rods. I have replaced the outer tie rod ends and ball joints. The car was aligned after the the parts were replaced. There is still a clunk coming from the left inner tie rod where it connects to the steering rack when I have someone move the steering wheel back and fourth. The car still randomly pulls left. Sometimes it is a good tug to the left. I have rechecked the upper and lower steering shaft U-joints and they are tight. I placed my hand around the left inner tie rod connection and feel/hear a clunk when the steering wheel is turned right and left. Should there be any play at the inner tie rod connection? Thanks Miles

I have Eagle series 28 15 x 7 rims on my 240z. Has anyone mounted the MM Toyota 4x4 caliper kit for vented calipers with the Eagle series 28 rims? Currently I have the Toyota calipers for solid rotors on my car and there are no rubbing problems. There is about a 1 1/4 inch clearence between the outer face of the Toyota caliper and the back of the wheel and about 1 inch space between the side of the caliper and the inner rim. Are most rubbing issues with the back side of wheel or the side (inner rim) of the caliper with the vented set up? As long as the length and width difference between the solid caliper and the vented caliper is a inch or less there shouldn't be a problem. Thanks Miles

I'm going to do the MM vented rotor install so I'll leave the 79 280zx MC in place.

Daniel I have the Toyota 4 x 4 clipers with solid rotors and stock rear drums. With the stock master cylinder what is your pedal like? The reason I ask is with the 79 280zx MC braking requires more pedal pressure due to the larger piston, but my car hauls down fast. However, I can not lock the front brakes. I am planning on going to the MM vented set up soon so I am debating if I should keep the 79 zx MC or go back to the stock MC. Miles

For a solid rotor with Toyota brake install you can buy the calipers from Napa. Napa p/n: 442-6648 442-6640 They fit: 79-84 Toyota 4x4 pickup and 84-85 Toyota 4Runner Use KVR pads for the 84-85 4Runner You should replace your stock MC with a 79 280zx MC with this set up.

I wonder if I just remove the bolts that hold the column to the fire wall and under the dash there would be enough movement in the column to allow the shaft to be pulled from the front and just miss the frame rail. Miles

Terry Sounds like the shaft is two splined pieces where it goes up inside of the column so it will allow the steering shaft and column to collapse in a head-on. Good to know I don't have squeeze under the dash. Thanks Miles

I did several searches and found the same question with no answers and the person posting the question has not replaced his steeing shaft at this time. The upper u-joint on the steering shaft next to the coupler is worn. The u-joint is not replacable so I am ordering a used replacement from Z Barn. Question is how to remove the upper steering shaft. Can the shaft be slipped out of the steering column while still in the car or does the whole column have to be removed? Has anyone done this? Thanks Miles

5 Star I carry a 10mm tubing wrench with me when I am adjusting and testing the push rod length. When the brakes lock up from too much push rod you can releive the pressure in the brake lines by cracking open the MC bleed screws. I do my test drives near my house and this gets me home every time when the brakes lock up. Miles