jhm

Love the widebodies! Good on you for taking on this project -- I'm sure it will be well worth the effort once near completion. Looks like winter starts early in your neck of the woods....probably great for the snow machines.

Some good ideas for chassis stiffening/bracing here: https://imgur.com/a/R27sh Most of these are from HybridZ members.

Yes, good clean connections on all your electrical connectors is essential....usually the first step one would take when troubleshooting an issue. Glad you got it sorted.

Not entirely sure what you're asking; but if you're looking for full schematics of the factory wiring, you can download free FSMs from here: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. You will likely be removing the fusible links from the system, and hopefully replacing them with technology from the 21st century. You can retain the original fuseblock, if you want, but I'd recommend inserting relays into the electrical system for running lights, headlights, starter, and any other high-load componentry you may have. Replacing the 45-year old wiring with new heavy gauge stuff will ensure full power to all your components. Ensuring that you have good grounds everywhere is essential....they get corroded and ineffective after a few decades. I don't know if this is what you were looking for, but good luck with it.

Did you happen to read the electrical chapter of the FSM, that I included in my earlier post? There's a section devoted to troubleshooting problems with all the gauges, including the temp gauge (page BE-46). The test you asked about would only work if all the wiring between the sender and the gauge is intact and functional. The most thorough way to troubleshoot an electrical circuit is to start at one end and systematically analyze each component of that circuit from end to end. The temp gauge circuit is defined on page BE-34. You may find that there are multiple issues within the circuit, but you'd never discover that if you were taking a haphazard approach. Not trying to be a dick here....really. But I'd recommend taking a more logical, systematic approach to troubleshooting problems; otherwise you're going to waste a lot of time and money. My two cents FWIW...

Unless a previous owner boogered it up, the wire should connect/disconnect via a clip-on electrical connector.....should be a bullet connector, but I guess it could be a blade connector. If it's not, do it right and crimp on the correct connector for the new sending unit. Hopefully the new parts will fix your issue.

Yes, it feeds directly into a coolant passage and will leak coolant when you remove it. As long as the engine is not running, the coolant will not be under pressure; so it's easy to plug temporarily while you're replacing the sender. You said "attach the yellow hose". I think you meant to say yellow wire?

May be able to help. Let me check my stash and get back to you.

If you only have a Chilton's manual for reference, that's part of the problem right there. Aftermarket service manuals are often questionable....sometimes they're useful, sometimes not. If you don't have the Factory Service Manual, you can download it for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html. I've attached the Body Electrical chapter here to get you started; gauges start on page 31. Body Electrical.pdf

Yes, R180. If you're wanting to know the gear ratio, the only sure way is to pull the back cover -- the ratio is stamped into the ring gear.

This may not help with your immediate problem.....but once you get things working, you can physically test the accuracy of the temp sensing system with an IR gun....see if you're getting the same readings on your gauge as you get on the gun. If you determine that your sending unit is out of spec, a new one can be purchased here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7110

No offense....but yes, trying to run the engine with a wrench on the driveshaft is pretty dumb. If the nuts are frozen/rusted on, heat and penetrating oil are typically best way to free them up. It may take a couple days for the oil to soak in and free them up. Other than that, cutting or grinding them may be your only option. If you decide you need a new driveshaft, I have one from a 1973 4-speed in really nice shape for sale. Good luck with it.

Ah, now I understand. Is the motor/trans already pulled from the car, or are you trying to swap the transmission from below (i.e. leaving the engine in the car during the transmission swap)? Obviously could be tricky reaching some of the bolts if the latter. My personal preference is to always pull the engine; but if you have access to a lift and a good transmission jack, you may prefer trying it without pulling the engine. Do you have the FSM? If not, you can download free manuals for every year at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/

Why would you think there's a different process for separating tranny from a siezed motor vs a non-siezed motor?

Glad everything worked out for you; thx for the update. I have never had anything but good experiences with Bad Dog.