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jhm

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jhm last won the day on April 7

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About jhm

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  • Birthday 09/12/1963

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  1. Yep...as long as the MC has constant bore, can swap the reservoirs so the larger tank services the front brakes, as Miles suggested. Couldn't tell from your OP if you were considering swapping in a Wilwood, or some other aftermarket, MC. Sounds like you're trying to maintain things as original as possible, IINM. Similar discussion on ClassicZCar: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/21826-brake-master-cylinder-240z/
  2. Whatever MC you decide to use, you just need to ensure that your front brake lines are routed to the reservoir designated "Front", and the rear lines to the "Rear" reservoir. Up to you to pick the master that best meets all your overall needs for your build. If you switch to anything other than an original MC for your year, be mindful of the fact that the prop valve and electric safety fail switch may not work as intended. That may or may not be important to you. I hope this answers your questions; but if not, post again with more detail on your car and your goals for it.
  3. @heyitsrama, Hey Amar, do you notice the fuel leak all the time; or just at the track (e.g. long fast left-handers)? Your fuel cap may not be making a tight seal. If it's a stock cap, you can try bending the little metal tabs to tighten it. If it's a locking cap, many of them don't fit tightly enough to provide a good tight seal. Old BMW locking caps can be made to work nicely, but they're no longer in production and pretty hard to find these days. I have the stock tank still, and have to use the stock non-locking cap to prevent leakage any time I'm at the track....I only use the locking cap for street driving. Regarding difficulty filling your tank....have you modified the stock tank hosing? If so, that may be the root cause of the issue. The tank needs to move fuel freely within itself, and be able to vent air (both for ease of filling, and to prevent pressure build-up during operation.) The stock evap tank allowed this, but lots of people (including myself) remove it. The "hose loop" method mentioned by @Twisted46 usually fixes most of the issue. Good luck with, and good job getting your lap times down!
  4. No, well-built clutch LSDs are actually very effective, especially in racing applications because of they're tuneability/adjustability. Helical are nice because they are quite durable and largely mx-free. The Phantom Grip pos is neither. It's a half-assed attempt to simulate an LSD; but the very nature of its design eats the internals of the differential. Google "Phantom Grip" and you'll see some real horror stories. It may work (sort of) for a while, but it eventually eats the diff. What are your goals for the car (I.e intended usage and application).? That will help determine the best LSD solution for your needs.
  5. Junk design, as Jon M said. It will typically eat itself, and then the rest of your diff, within a few hundred miles. Can't believe they're charging $300+ for those things. Much better off if you can find an OBX for your R200, and then install the washer swap if needed. Or you could check out the MFactory unit offered at a discount in our Vendors' Forum. Seems to be one of the better deals out there for a quality piece...
  6. Just curious....how do you know that you've never hit the bump stops? Have you checked your suspension compression to verify? The reason that PU bump stops are not recommended is that they are exponentially higher in effective spring rate than any spring you'd run on the car. I think the Eibachs are only 180'ish lb/in, so it wouldn't take much to push the suspension through its full range of motion. What shocks are you running with the Eibachs?
  7. Here you go. You may be able to find them cheaper elsewhere, but Fat Cat can help you select the best size and composition for your specific application. http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_bump_stops.htm
  8. What are your goals for the car? How do you plan on using/driving it? And what other mods/upgrades (if any) are planned?
  9. Hard to tell for sure; but those T3 high-clearance tie rod ends appear to have standard tapered pins on them; which obviously means you wouldn't want to drill out the steering knuckles. I would call T3 to verify. I bought T3's adjustable tie rod ends a few years ago; and they used a 5/8" bolt at the tie rod end; which meant I did have to drill out my stock steering knuckles to accept the bolt. They were a different style than these new high-clearance tie rod ends that T3 is offering. Last time I looked at the Apex adjustable tie rod ends, they were also using a tapered pin, compatible with the S30 stock steering knuckle. (Just an FYI, Apex has had some product availability issues lately; so call them to check if in stock before ordering.) Moving your front axles "back" will reduce what little caster there is in the stock suspension...which is the opposite of what most people want (for performance driving or track use.) Why are you wanting to do this modification? P.S. May want to start a new thread; just so this conversation doesn't go off on too much of an off-topic tangent from Vlad's original thread. Your call....
  10. Welcome to HybridZ and the wonderful world of Z cars! I don't think the original sound proofing material is available any longer; I believe it was an asbestos product. And the new products (e.g. FatMat, Dynomat, Noico, etc) are far superior in many ways. There are also several good vendors for new and used OEM-style and restoration parts -- here's a couple I like to use, but there are certainly many others out there: Z Car Source MSA Auto Z Car Depot Also, are you familiar with using dry ice to remove the sound deadener? Mix dry ice with denatured alcohol in a bucket, and then scoop the slurry all over the areas you want to remove the material from....be aware that it will also usually remove any old sound deadener/rust proofing material on the exterior of the sheetmetal as well as the interior. Leave it on for a few minutes and then bang/scrape the material off. It literally freezes and pops off the metal very easily. Good luck with it.
  11. Gotcha. Your wheel offset will also affect the equation, so don't forget to provide that info as well.
  12. If you don't get the information you need here on HybridZ, I'd suggest checking on ClassicZCar.com. Those guys are more into stock restorations and original-type mods and repairs. Besides different tire sizes, have you looked into the possibility of swapping your speedo gear in the trans? That might be a cheaper option. There are also vendors that offer speedo gear converters, in case you can't find the internal speedometer gear you need for your specific application/transmission.
  13. Not sure which manuals you have; but if you don't have the full FSM yet, you can download all years for free at: http://www.xenonzcar.com/. I've had both an early-version and a late-model 260, and the attached pics were fairly close to the relay setup in both cars. Pay close attention to the plug configuration for each relay, and that should help you in the ID process. Keep in mind that the electricals could vary quite a bit from year to year; and the 260 models were transitional, so design and build specs were changing quite rapidly at that point in the S30 evolution. Good luck with it.
  14. I'll put this up here....was useful to me when I had a failing switch in my ignition switch (i.e. the non-keyed barrel behind the keyed portion of the ignition switch). It's really nothing more than a visual representation of the information you guys have already posted/discussed.
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