zeeboost

Weird, the last time I was at one of those meets, granted it was several years ago, my old sbc 280zx had many compliments and it was just primered with a mostly missing interior.

Haha nice catch on that one. On a more serious note when I worked at the dealer I've had to change out a couple hvac systems before, one bc some varmint pissed all over the cowl panel which got inside the ducting, and the second was bc a rat thought the blower motor was a hamster wheel until the customer got inside that morning and blew chunks of flesh throughout the system. And somehow both managed to be covered under warranty so I wasn't too thrilled about it. I've been able to mask a few odors by trying Lysol, febreeze, or bg frigi-fresh. You could try that to get rid of the rest of the smell, but that won't eliminate what ever is in that system creating the smell.

That's awesome, I'd feel pretty self-accomplished if someone told me that.

Hate to do a shameless plug, buutt...I am kinda selling a complete hvac setup, with a working blower motor and all ducting, for a mere $50. And this one spent most of its life in a storage unit with 0 mice problems and 0 bubonic plague problems. (btw happy birthday Mr. D)

Hahaha, yeah pretty convinced those don't exist here in the land of lifted jeeps and diesel 4x4s But just to play out on that scenario, drop a few $k on a ring vs. T76 turbo, 2j 272 cams plus engine management, 8.8 swap for my Fd with custom axles, machine work to finish the 3.1 stroker, speedhut gauges, procharger f1r mounting bracket with different pully sizes, z32 trans swap, direct port nitrous setup for ITB setup, vortech supercharger mounting bracket and pullies, and the list goes on. At least with the parts I know exactly what I'm getting.

My '82 with a good ol 355 sbc / t56 combination used to be my daily when I was in college. It really wasn't too bad with that 6th gear, I could average around 25mpg and I'm pretty sure I was always running rich. But you must be doing something different b/c I rarely get approached at gas stations, nobody usually challenges me (with the exception of a new 911 3 weeks ago) and chicks could care less about my cars. In fact my Zs have ended more relationships than anything lol.

I really hope a 4500lb muscle / sports car isn't the new standard for everyone else. I give them props on their marketing though

Even though it isn't finished, my '82's interior is probably my favorite of all my Zs, mostly from the rx8 seats. They look and feel great!

Eh...may not be u-joints if you can hear the exact same noise going over bumps. When you hear the noise, does it sound like it's a rotational noise? Is there a rhythm that it knocks to and does it increase or decrease depending on speed of vehicle? Or does it knock at a random, unpredictable frequency only under the conditions you describe?

I should've said bad or worn axle joints can do that, they shouldn't make any noise in normal working order. And no they won't affect your alignment.

CV axles (or most likely in your case, u-joints in the half shafts) can have a tendency to do that under load. Other than that, just go run to harbor freight for a hydraulic jack and swap the two tires.

I can't see how it would be. If it pulls hard to the right, you may very well have a radial tire pull. Looking at your specs it should just be a slight-to-moderate drift to the right, nothing dramatic. Just swap the front two tires and retest. And while you have the front end off the ground, grab the tires and shake them side to side and up and down (checking for any type of play in the front end) with your steering wheel unlocked. You shouldn't feel any slop. and when I say up and down, I mean grab the top of the tire and pull it towards you, while pushing the bottom of the tire with your other hand. Then vice versa, rapidly. Again, I know your specs for the rear are in the red but the last one you posted wasn't really that bad at all. Do the things I listed above and report back.

Your cross camber is probably mostly responsible for the pull. If you don't want to slot the strut towers, the proper way to make camber adjustable would be to install camber plates. You'll want your right front camber to be -.4 as well to match the left side. Depending on how bad the crown is on the roads in your area, sometimes it helps to bump the caster up .5* higher on the pass side to help compensate for it, but typically with sports cars the caster should be even on both sides. You probably have worn suspension components contributing to the poor rear toe angles, though they're not really that bad. Even if you have more luggage / weight in the back, that can change your readings. If you're worried about the pull, my money is on the front camber split. Get that addressed then retest. You can also have a radial pull from the tires, yes I've seen plenty of (cheap) new tires cause a pull, so I wouldnt rule that out. You can swap the two front tires and drive it again to see if it still pulls right or now pulls left. That should tell you if it's a tire pull or not. If youre worried about tire wear, then check the integrity of everything involved with the rear suspension and replace if necessary. And yes you can slot the rear subframe to be able to adjust toe.

Ehhh you're 18, it's expected that you show off a little bit. It makes the memories. Yes, the AFM should still open up since the pistons are still drawing in air. I would assume throttle body position would have an effect on how far the AFM opens up, but not 100%. I really don't know the condition of your car, but when it doesn't start you need to check the basics. Pop a spark wire off and set it next to a ground (strut tower nut is what I usually use), make sure you have spark. Use a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listen to the injectors while cranking to see if they're clicking (opening/closing). If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you can hook it up, leave your hood just open on the release latch, run the fuel pressure gauge up to the windshield and tape it to it while monitoring WOT to see if it maintains pressure. If not, could be a failing pump, crap in the tank, clogged filter, etc. Go from there...

What type of fiberglass hood do you have and how much does it weigh?

I have a 1975 280z rust / damage free that I may be willing to trade for some race parts. What do you have available?

1) Looking for the main efi relay off a 75 or 76 280z, along with the injector dropping resistors. This is the large relay under the dash on the left side, plugs into the factory efi harness. 2) Also looking for the factory tee on 81-83 turbos that tee the turbo oil feed line between the block and oil sending unit. 3) Lastly, before I buy a new one from MSA, figured I'd check to see if anyone had a BRE front chin spoiler (ducted) for a 240z that they don't use any more.

Bought a clutch, still need a flywheel. Anyone?

My roommate thinks she found them in her trunk, so if it's them you can have em. Btw that cam was broken on the head, along with the rear half of the boss holding the rear exhaust stud, which I missed. Didn't get to pull the headliner this weekend so I'll still have to get back to you on that one.

Looking for a clutch that can hold 300-350hp, don't care if it's 225mm or 240mm, as long as it won't slip with that horsepower. Also looking for a lightweight flywheel, fidanza or other name brand preferred. Figured I'd post this ad before I buy the parts new, bc I know as soon as I buy them, a solid low mileage used set will pop up for a solid price.

Just picked one up, thanks.

Would prefer this guy to be ready to drop in (no rebuild or machine work needed). Also, head is not necessary but I'm opposed to a long block. Would also prefer to be somewhat local to me (Dfw, Houston, atx areas). Just building it for chump car so gotta keep the budget low. Lemme know what you got

Really good looking wheels but I should've done my homework first. Eagles website lists the 15x7 at 20lbs and 15x8 at 24lbs, which is quite a bit more than I was wanting to run. Sorry about that, but thanks for the reply.

I'd like to find a 15x8 -30 set of Eagle 028 wheels. Would prefer the factory 4x4.5 lug pattern and the -30 offset, but if you have a set of these wheels, list the specs and I'll see if I can work with it. Thanks

Be lucky you guys just have 1 project car. My addiction has me at 5 Zs and now 1 FD, and every Z has had an engine or drivetrain swap... :-/ And I keep telling myself it'll end soon...lol