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About JavelinZ

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  1. @AlbatrossCafe I'm still here floating around. Actually I only left a 1/4" of old tube on my front spindle. I think I cut the tube off a 1/2 - 3/4" above the casting for the rear struts. That is more out of necessity than choice as it is hard to get a sawzall in there to get the rear tube cut off with the stock drum backing plates in the way. I would have cut the rear down to only a 1/4" tall stub if I could have fit the saw in there to do it. No extra "sturdiness" is gained in leaving the tube longer as Munters mentioned. That is a weird myth people in the community keep perpetuating. There is no design methodology I am aware of, that mystically grants more strength by leaving dangling tube inside another. For the old tube stub to offer extra strength it would have to be an interference press fit (or fusion welded) between the ID of the adapter tube and the OD of the old tube. That is not the case with any of the mcpherson weld on coilover adapters I have seen offered for these cars. If the adapter slides/drops down over the cut down tube, all afforded strength is in the weld between the spindle casting and the adapter tube (Like I did). I drove my car for 2 more years as a daily before I took it down for a resto, the welded joints are all fine. The new slip on adapter is stronger than the stock tube, Thicker tube wall and larger OD means more cross sectional area in the tube so more load bearing than the stock unit, as far as tube itself is concerned. The fronts bottom out first on a 280Z. At full drop the 280z "frame rails" are 1.25" off the ground on my car. (I ride around at 2.5" rail to ground clearance). I think I could technically lower the car enough in the rear to pick the wheels off the ground at full drop. Stance actually has a shorter length cartridge you can use for the fronts now I believe. (I could probably put the rails on the ground if I swapped to the new cartridge, but that doesn't interest me.) The rear 280z adapter tubes are about 3 inches longer than the fronts. So technically, when the front bottoms out, you should be able to lower the rears 2-3 more inches, not something you would do, obviously. If you have a 240Z you would use a 6" tall adapter tube front and rear, (different rear strut tower geometry). The amount you can lower the car is directly related to how much tube you leave behind. Leave too much and want to go lower? You won't be able to. Just cut the old strut tubes off 1/4" tall and you'll be fine. Strength is in the weld not the old tube, old stub is just along for the ride. Besides you can't go back and cut them shorter later. I've seen a few guys with the BC coils leave a bunch of tube (also incorrectly thinking it is somehow stronger/safer) and they ultimately can't lower their cars as much as they wanted. A lack of understanding often leads to poor choices and regret sometimes, as it goes with most things in life. Hope that answers your question Albatross. Sorry for the long response.
  2. The fact that this question of price is being asked, KW's aren't for most people. I'll just leave this here: http://www.tf-works.com/brands/KW-Suspension.html Edit: Nevermind the fact the S30 ones will only be offered in V3 (since that is what is debuting), and the fact that they are unique from most all KW's other stuff in that they have a spindle and caliper mount.
  3. L28 dual duty build

    BRAAP had a really good efi induction FAQ type thread a few years back that had a lot of info. I don't remember what section it is under anymore. But it should be there. Stock NA injectors won't do it. Cam is a waste of money on stock L28 intake, intake is the first real restriction you run into, especially NA. Several guys with stock turbo engines I know made 230-240 hp on stock turbo injectors. Injectors were maxed at 240hp. NA injectors won't make it. Honestly a $2000 budget isn't going to get you 200hp pretty much regardless of how you cut it. I know of several people with builds along the lines of what you have pitched with triples and a cam and those cars put down about 130 at the wheels. If you want 200hp NA you're gonna have to give Rebello $10k from what I've seen of a rebello motor car that I thought was quick. Or you can run a turbo motor, an ecu, and z31 turbo and make 230hp and 275tq. At least that is what my friends car is running (it's faster than the Rebello motored car by the way) That's my two cents from what I have seen from several iterations of friends builds in town since I started into Z cars back in '08 If you want NA power I'd expect to basically throw all of that $2000 budget at paying someone that knows their way around an L head to work the chambers and the ports into shape and I wouldn't be surprised if it took more cash to get the head finished. Regards
  4. Bolt-on struts?

    TJ, Have you considered talking to Stance about triple adjustables? Bill Washburn just blew the doors off of a bunch of people in the RS Maxi at Climb to the Clouds. He is running Stance custom valved to his specs. He used to post on Nissan Road Racing forums but, I'm not sure he frequents there much anymore. I'm sure he could shed some light on what you are looking for. The coilovers and camber plates I designed up for my Z use the stance cartridges. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pykb-hHPHpA I follow him on instagram so that is how I would get a hold of him. You could probably get to him through youtube as well I would imagine.
  5. Dang, that sucks. Can't say I've seen that failure very often. Didn't Mazworx install the seats? Then again, experiments, science, and stuff...
  6. Mmm, sausage... Any particular reason for capturing the chain on both sides? Kinda curious what a materials analysis would yield if you sent some chain guide material out for inspection. I remember having to get material composition certs for the ISO shop I worked at making aviation parts.

    What class/run group are you going to be running? Just pull up the nasa rule book and read through it. It sounds like you are just starting out so you will most likely start in HPDE1 like everyone else does. As long as you are in DE1 or 2 tires and wheels won't matter. Everybody in those classes is still figuring out what they are doing and getting comfortable with their car.
  8. The wear surfaces are what need to be hard. Ductility and strength/hardness are a trade off. If you have ever messed with carbide milling cutters you will see the difference between how a piece of mild steel breaks versus a solid carbide cutter. A through hardened carbide cutter will cut through all kinds of stuff that is softer than the cutter. But when you apply too much force/stress to the carbide cutter (i.e. you exceeded the ultimate strength) that cutter is going to shatter into pieces without showing you any prior signs of deformation. Whereas you can bend a piece of mild steel around quite a bit before it work hardens to the point of breaking. In this case a through hardened cam is going to be so rigid that you would probably have a hard time not snapping when tightening the cam towers. It's not so much wanting it soft or hard, it is having the right material properties in the right place for the application. Having a hardened wear surface in a non wear region is a waste of time and ultimately money. If you have enough non hardened material cross section in the cam to prevent measurable deformation as the cam rotates and moves the rockers. Then why would the non wear regions need to be hardened? I may have not used some of the material mechanics terms properly (solid mechanics was a couple years ago for me) but that is the basic gist of things. Hopefully some of what I said will help you to think about it from another angle to make some sense of it.
  9. Help with coilovers

    Vintage Spirit can do it. They are in the bay area.
  10. This just keeps getting better. Did machining your own caps also allow you to eliminate the gap between the rocker arms and the cam towers (due to difference in bore spacing) so that those spacers you made will no longer be necessary for positioning the rockers over the valve stems?
  11. Color choice help!

    I can't believe no one suggested the factory r32 color. Takumi's car is a perfrect example. https://www.instagram.com/takumi_403/
  12. What Xnke said, and the starter is pretty much sitting right where you would want to run an exhaust.
  13. Pictures of type 1 air dam on 280z?

    https://www.instagram.com/p/8y4u64rTc7/?taken-by=ultra.heaven Car on left is a late 260 w/ late style Type1. Car on right is a 280 w/ early style Type1 and 240 turn signals. These guys are a better deal for brand new plastic housings. You can even get them in silver plastic. They are probably making them for MSA. http://klearz.com/products/datsun/240z
  14. Umm... Swift Springs on $1000 coilovers? The shock is the important part. the spring is kind of secondary. If you aren't racing (competitively) what quantifiable improvement is a spring going to give you on the street? I'd put the extra $400 dollars toward something else like better dampers, brake rotors, brake pads, etc. Just my .02