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Swiss two-become-one 240Z Ground up restauration / JDM mods

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I've been super busy with dozens of small 240Z projects, but unfortunately it's two steps forward and one back at the moment so i haven't really completed anything noteworthy to post here.  Nevertheless i left some parts at the paint-stripping company today and should be able to pick them up early next year. And then suddenly i got a picture from my Panelbeater with a small update: The outer radius on the Tabco rear quarter panel has been corrected to give it the factory-like sharp edges (the tabco is a bit too soft) and the welds have been cleaned. Hope to have more updates soon. really working on a few ends at the moment :)
IMG-20171213-WA0002-Kopie.jpg

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Today i was finally able to complete a little project on which i've been working over the past few weeks. I completely reworked the Inspection Lamp.
Remember a few weeks ago when i posted this pic? This is how it all started. Rusty, Painted over a few times, and in bad shape. didn't even work:
P1190292-Kopie.jpg

Of course started to disassembly everything first
P1190302-Kopie.jpg

Then had the housing tubmlered to remove old paint, dirt and rust (picture has other parts included as well, which don't belong to the inspection lamp):
P1190348-Kopie.jpg

And got it zinc-replated and yellow passivated to get back the origina look. Then started to source the missing parts.

Even if i'm in the business i failed to find an original green twin-wire with the original thickness. but since the original wire was still in good shape i decided to just clean and keep it.

The bulb was a bit of a headscratcher too. but after i figured out the Keyword was "BA9s" (9mm bajonett-socket with single base connector) it was easy to find a fitting bulb, 12V, 8W as the manual states. Nowadays you even could replace it with a lot of less-power consuming LED bulbs, but i decided to keep it oldschool in this case :)

The switch was the most tricky part. the original was toasted (see left). It could be saved and restored but then you still have a completely brittly 40 year old piece of plastic in an outdated electronic design, so i decided to replace it with a newer style switch. The first generation of inspection lamps had a metal switch too, so it's not a completey wrong look.
P1190470-Kopie.jpg

The switch needs a 12mm thread, but must be small enough to fit inside the housing (most 12mm threaded switches are too big) and it should have the little notch in the thread to secure it properly in correct position. After trying various options i figoured out this one would fit perfectly (Available at farnell)
http://www.atakel.com/urun/apem-5000-series-miniature-toggle-switches/EN/
DSC_1827-Kopie.jpg
 

While the original one is an ON-OFF switch, this one is an ON-ON switch, but if you remove one of the outer pins you have an ON-OFF function again:
DSC_1829-Kopie.jpg

First the little nipple has to minimized by 0.5mm or so to fit the slightly smaller notch in the new switch:
DSC_1826-Kopie.jpg

Then prepared all the cables. Cleaned them first with a rough side of a dish cleaning sponge, cut off the ends, removed insulation ca 1mm at each end with a special tool and then pre-soldered the ends to make it easier to solder it later.
DSC_1831-Kopie.jpg

It probably helps if you have a full high-end soldering workstation like i have at my office and 20+ years of daily soldering routine skills :)
DSC_1832-Kopie.jpg

All parts ready? Here we go. The fun part begins - assembly (got a new replica lens and rubber insulator from ebay, plus additionally a piece of black heat-shrinking tube and some red electronic wrapping tape).
DSC_1833-Kopie.jpg

First i installed a new rubber insulator grommet on the bottom of the back housing. the original one was falling apart by just looking at it. New ones can be found easy in any electronis speciality shop.
DSC_1837-Kopie.jpg

The removed the old wire-end from the connecting plate and cleaned it.
DSC_1838-Kopie.jpg

resoldered the new wire-end to it and cleaned it with flux remover (removes flux from the soldering, which may decrease the electric connectivity! see bottle in the back)
DSC_1843-Kopie.jpg

Soldered the other wire back to the hook and attached some black heat-shrinking tube like it was in the factory setup:
DSC_1846-Kopie.jpg

Next was soldering the wires to the switch and protect the solderings with some black  heat-shrinking tube:
DSC_1847-Kopie.jpg

Also added the red electrical tape as it was in my factory setup (it goes inside where the clamp is to protect wires):
DSC_1850-Kopie.jpg

Soldered the wire back to the little Clamp
DSC_1849-Kopie.jpg

And installed the clamp back to the bottom and secured the cables inside with it. Done :)
DSC_1851-Kopie-1.jpg

Apply 12V DC to it (ground to the housing, plus to the red wire, switch on - YAY!
DSC_1853-Kopie.jpg

assembled it to gether and still everything works as it should:
DSC_1854-Kopie.jpg

So here's the result. Quite the difference when compared to the first pictures, which was the same item!
DSC_1855-Kopie.jpg

Spent quite a few hours sourcing parts and getting everything cleaned and so on, but honestly it was totally worth the work :)
DSC_1856-Kopie.jpg

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Christmas comes one day early this year :) After a four-week long wait, a little Box from Japan finally arrived here with some Parts for my MK63 brakes:
1) Project u MK63 Solid disk type NS street brake pads:
P1190495-Kopie.jpg

2) NOS Nissan Sumitomo MK63 Brake pistons
P1190496-Kopie.jpg

I think i have everything ready now for assembling the Brakes over the holidays :)

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Last post of the year. Nothing huge, but wanted to share the progress.
This week i visited the bodyshop to pick up some unused parts and had a look at t he latest work: The rear quarter panel is in, as is the inner arch. The outer arch has ben reshaped to fit the original bodylines. The repair panels have a different "softer" shape, compared to the original lines. but only visible if you know the details.

DSC_1844-Kopie.jpg

Currently he's reworking the think soft "edge" (where the black line is). Most of owners probably haven't even noticed there's an edge. but my bodyshop guy is a perfectionist. that's why it takes  a lot of time. anyhow. The body is getting a concours level restauration :) Also the tank filler  "pocket" has been removed to get a little rust treatment, and to have better access to the inside of the rear quarters.
DSC_1843-Kopie-1.jpg
 

And at home i've been puzzling together various parts laying around. Like this Differential strap mounts: 
P1190437-Kopie.jpg

Now freshly assembled with fresh zinc plated bolts and tubes and powdercoated base mounts. Perfect.
P1190439-Kopie.jpg

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Woohow! Another one of these little long-term projects finally completed.
I failed several attempts to paint the ignition-switch surrounding ring and the Turn signal switch stalk by myself. The paint would be so easy to scratch off (with fingernails) afterwards that it would immetiately look terrible once you touch it with anything hard.
P1190410-Kopie.jpg

So after i realized i suck at painting, i decided to hand it over to René, the paint wizard at Autolackprofis which i know from the Honda-scene back in the days and is one of the most recognized paintshops in (and outside) switzerland. He's also in charge of painting the car once it's ready (if he isn't retired by then :P) The result is stunning. We decided to go for an industrial grade paint which is stronger and more scratch resistant compared to normal car paint. Perfect :)
P1190515-Kopie.jpg

So first in installed the painted ignition switch surrounding ring back to the switch:
P1190519-Kopie.jpg

Then started to re-assemble the turn signal switch (See previous steps here)
First installed the wire back completely with the switch contacts and the plastic spacer:
P1190520-Kopie.jpg

Added dielectric grease to all the contacts to make sure they will operate smoothly and contact well for a long time:
P1190523-Kopie.jpg

At the bottom end in added the little contact back to the spring and added dielectric grease as well.
P1190524-Kopie.jpg

Added the switch plastic housing and the inside mechanism back to the stalk and measured. Unpressed: Infinite Ohms (no connection)
P1190525-Kopie.jpg

Switch pressed: Zero Ohms (Short). That's what the switch does. if you press it it will short the 12V applied to it to the chassis-ground. So it works perfectly (Always check before doing next steps, you will hate yourself for not doing so if you figure out once it's installed)
P1190526-Kopie.jpg

Install the stalk back to the switch assembly. Since i wasn't able to find a similar bolt used in the the original assembly, i just took a zinc plated nail in the same dimensions, cut it off and made it fit :)
P1190527-Kopie.jpg

After that it's time to get the wires back together. Don't forget to add the heat shrinking tube before you solder...
P1190529-Kopie.jpg

Soldered wires back together and heat shrinking tube is shrunk to the original shape:
P1190530-Kopie.jpg

And secured using the small little clamp:
P1190531-Kopie.jpg

Think it ended up really well. checked all the functions and everything works, feels solid and looks great...
P1190532-Kopie.jpg

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and definitely much cleaner compared to the original dusty switch, which was completely covered in old dirty grease.  I'm super happy to have completed another little project that took my quite some time :)
P1190535-Kopie.jpg

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hi!

 

quick question, for the ring, why didn't you have it powdercoated?   Is it made of plastic?

 

as a side note, since you do so much yourself, you might be interested in cheap powdercoating guns, or even do it yourself kinds (my dad made one, looks about as nice as a a pumpkin someone droped from the 3rd floor, but it works really well, all for about 8$)...  

 

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Nothing big today, just picked up a bunch of parts at the paint stripping company. The green colour is wash-primer to protect it from rust.
The grille parts. have to straighten a few things, waiting for two small vertical parts to be fabricated and then it will be ready to get assembled back together:
P1190542-Kopie.jpg

And a set of front lower valances, the gas door and two front tow hooks:
P1190543-Kopie.jpg

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On 9.1.2018 at 5:37 AM, supernova_6969 said:

quick question, for the ring, why didn't you have it powdercoated?   Is it made of plastic?

as a side note, since you do so much yourself, you might be interested in cheap powdercoating guns, or even do it yourself kinds (my dad made one, looks about as nice as a a pumpkin someone droped from the 3rd floor, but it works really well, all for about 8$)... 

No it's made out of metal. THe problem with powdercoating is it leaves a quite thick coat on the ring if done proper and than it wouldn't fit anymore. at least that was my thoughts. i had plenty of parts powdercoated for my project so far and i have a good company local, but i thought in this case paint would be better. I'm happy with the result :)

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