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#41 seattlejester

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 12:06 PM

Congrats on progress.

 

Goodness gracious your floor/frame rails look pretty beat up lol, hopefully plans to address that in the future?

 

I thought I would surge ahead here, but seems like you are going to beat me to the first start up!



#42 Geno750

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 07:20 PM

I went a few steps forward then back. Selling off my CD009 swap and going with a TR6060. So my car might be running this year...

Seeing this is motivation to brave the cold and get wrenching though.

#43 joa_taste

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 08:42 PM

Congrats on progress.

 

Goodness gracious your floor/frame rails look pretty beat up lol, hopefully plans to address that in the future?

 

I thought I would surge ahead here, but seems like you are going to beat me to the first start up!

hahaha! I know man my floor pans are the epitome of holy. Any worse and Ill be flinstoning around haha.

The floor pans are definitely the next thing. Im really going for motor swap and Interior. Ive always loved a clean Interior.

 

how did your mounts come out? you like them better flipped around?

 

I went a few steps forward then back. Selling off my CD009 swap and going with a TR6060. So my car might be running this year...

Seeing this is motivation to brave the cold and get wrenching though.

Why do you want to let go of your CD? my friend with a 240sx says thats his favorite tranny he has ever used.



#44 Geno750

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 10:22 PM

hahaha! I know man my floor pans are the epitome of holy. Any worse and Ill be flinstoning around haha.

The floor pans are definitely the next thing. Im really going for motor swap and Interior. Ive always loved a clean Interior.

 

how did your mounts come out? you like them better flipped around?

 

Why do you want to let go of your CD? my friend with a 240sx says thats his favorite tranny he has ever used.

 

The clutch options are lacking, and the gearing is less than ideal now. Ironically if I kept the R200 long nose, its the exact same gearing as a 350Z. Using it in a 4.1 final equipped car though, and its kinda silly. The TR6060 should be more than capable of handling the power I'm making, and if not I can upgrade the guts, something you can't do on a CD box.



#45 seattlejester

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 12:10 AM

Oh yea, when I flipped the mount plates I got like an extra inch of adjustment vertically, I spaced the passenger side a bit, and modified the driver side quite a bit. 

 

Engine sits about maybe 3/4 of an inch above the steering rack right now, pretty darn centered. 

 

4B78EC70-FA43-4FBB-BD7D-0CC00FD755A8_zps

 

One of the big benefits to this is that I can reuse my stock exhaust which tucks into the trans tunnel. Big 3 inch with a bullet muffler and if you look under the car you can barely see the muffler sticking out slightly under the floor, but still above the frame rails.



#46 Nv_s30

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 05:03 AM

I miss my old wheels lol looks good man hopefully my car can get on the road soon too  :mellow:



#47 Geno750

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 02:42 PM

Oh yea, when I flipped the mount plates I got like an extra inch of adjustment vertically, I spaced the passenger side a bit, and modified the driver side quite a bit.

Engine sits about maybe 3/4 of an inch above the steering rack right now, pretty darn centered.

4B78EC70-FA43-4FBB-BD7D-0CC00FD755A8_zps

One of the big benefits to this is that I can reuse my stock exhaust which tucks into the trans tunnel. Big 3 inch with a bullet muffler and if you look under the car you can barely see the muffler sticking out slightly under the floor, but still above the frame rails.


Very nice, I've been following your progress on the mounts. I'll be setting up my shell to receive components in a few weeks and see how I fare.

#48 joa_taste

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 06:52 PM

Oh yea, when I flipped the mount plates I got like an extra inch of adjustment vertically, I spaced the passenger side a bit, and modified the driver side quite a bit. 

 

Engine sits about maybe 3/4 of an inch above the steering rack right now, pretty darn centered. 

 

4B78EC70-FA43-4FBB-BD7D-0CC00FD755A8_zps

 

One of the big benefits to this is that I can reuse my stock exhaust which tucks into the trans tunnel. Big 3 inch with a bullet muffler and if you look under the car you can barely see the muffler sticking out slightly under the floor, but still above the frame rails.

Very nice bro! I like that you are able to use your stock exhaust system. Mine is going to be a little low lol. 

 

I miss my old wheels lol looks good man hopefully my car can get on the road soon too  :mellow:

Hopefully! gotta get that Z running brutha. I think i am taking your advice with the gauges lol.



#49 joa_taste

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 07:36 PM

Update.

 

 

 

So I tackled a few things on my list. I don't know about you guys but when I do something new like make something, I end up running back and forth to the parts store.

Luckily I live 2 minutes away from multiple auto parts stores, and a Mcfaddendales.

Today wasn't so bad in that sense

 

Intercooler brackets.

 

So I ran to Home Depot, and stood there pondering how I would tackle this. 

My main focus was trying to keep the slant of the radiator, yet keeping it inside of a 28" x 14" measurement.

After going over multiple options in my head, I went with an easy L bracket 72" x 6" x 3".

I measured the slant of the radiator and the intercooler itself. seems to be about right.

 

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I trimmed down the L bracket to the size of the intercooler.

Then I made small brackets to bolt on the radiator to the intercooler. (I should've just welded this, but it works lol). I measured where the intercooler would sit compared to hood latches, and clearance. 

I did have it just a hair too high so I brought it down about a half inch to get it to clear the hood.

 

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My idea here is, run two 90 degree couplers to clear the hood latches and side rails.

This should put me in the right position for my piping, which I am waiting for.

 

 

Next I started doing the radiator piping. 

If I've learned anything from doing swaps its all about saving all parts and bolts of whatever you use or have used.

In this situation the hoses I had used on the L26 set up worked for the top.

 

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As for the bottom the water neck and the stock radiator feed to water neck is a bit tricky.

So I need to order some aluminum piping and a few couplers. I will also buy a overflow reservoir.

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Gotta love the waiting game.



#50 grayson260z

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 09:15 AM

Looking good man digging the progress. I have a 260 shell sitting on jackstands right now while I'm trying to decide what I wanna do with it. I also have a 2jzge in the shop disassembled I keep glancing at and sitting in the engine bay with the hoist. I'm still not completely decided what to do just that I know that I want a manual transmission, which is kinda keeping me from going LS so I don't have to buy a T56 lol. Awesome stuff though I'm glad the CXRacing mounts are starting to become a more viable option and we don't have to try and source an old Beta mount or build our own. A question though, how does the car handle and drive having the rad support cut out with that bar in between the frame rails? That frees up a ton of space


Why didnt the Z just have wooden floorboards so we could just cut new ones every 20 years or so?


#51 joa_taste

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Posted 05 February 2017 - 07:10 PM

Looking good man digging the progress. I have a 260 shell sitting on jackstands right now while I'm trying to decide what I wanna do with it. I also have a 2jzge in the shop disassembled I keep glancing at and sitting in the engine bay with the hoist. I'm still not completely decided what to do just that I know that I want a manual transmission, which is kinda keeping me from going LS so I don't have to buy a T56 lol. Awesome stuff though I'm glad the CXRacing mounts are starting to become a more viable option and we don't have to try and source an old Beta mount or build our own. A question though, how does the car handle and drive having the rad support cut out with that bar in between the frame rails? That frees up a ton of space


Nice my man. I think there are different options for LS1? I'm not 100 percent sure.
I wanted to do a Porsche 944 LS1 but didn't want to spend tons of cash on it lol.
As for the rad support, it handles well. I did have a strut brace tho.
I will need either a new one or more support up front with the JZ, eventually.

#52 torotra

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 05:37 PM

Where did you find a conversion for a TR 6060? I searched the net for a bit and couldn't find much of anything.



#53 Geno750

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Posted 07 February 2017 - 05:52 PM

Where did you find a conversion for a TR 6060? I searched the net for a bit and couldn't find much of anything.


There's a QuickTime bellhousing available which is SFI certified, part number RM4030.

#54 joa_taste

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Posted 13 February 2017 - 11:18 AM

UPDATE

 

 

Well small update.

So I've gotten miscellaneous parts in finally.

 

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I decided to start with finishing my coolant hoses, but since it would be in the way before I could finish that I needed to finish my turbo drain feed. Lol not going to say its ugly but its super ghetto looking. Since my feed smacked right into my passenger side motor mount I had to use brass piping to make a 90 degree lol.

Anyways I finished the Oil Drain feed and did the hoses. I bought FB3s Rx7 radiator components (aluminum piping, misc. couplers and an overflow reservoir ). It worked well, I did minimal cutting on one of the aluminum pipes to make this work. I think i am going to make a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir that comes off of the Rad/Intercooler bracket. I don't want to do this until I finish doing my IC piping, since i don't want to make unwanted issues or make things harder.

I snapped a quick picture, its been raining out here inconsistently so I really didn't finish much.

 

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The next thing was starting to mock up my IC piping. I went with Stainless steel since i don't have a TIG. I got two mandrel bent pipes x1 2.25" for hot side, and x1 2.5" for cold side. Im still waiting on the 2.25" mandrel bent pipe but I finished my cold side. On the cold side is where I will mount my BOV. I will weld everything at the same time once I get the pipe for the Hot side. Hopefully I will get this in today.

 

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I bought some Speedhut gauges, 4" Tach/Speedo. Which are being made and need 15-20 days to be finished?

I also bought auto meter 2 5/8" Oil, Coolant, Fuel gauges as well.

Figured since I need to wait so many days, i might as well do a Dash Resoration lol.

 

So I removed my dash, lol it wasn't so bad. I thought it were going to be a lot worse TBH.

I guess some guys have to drill out their last screw, but luckily I didn't have to. Looking at my interior with the dash removed makes the car look weird lol. As you can see my dash is going to need a lot of TLC.

 

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Looking over a couple of the Dash resto's Hybridz has, I think I like this one the best.

http://forums.hybrid...ion-new-gauges/

 

Its funny when you start doing swaps. When I started this I told myself I would keep the r180 diff and not do anything interior, but i guess once you get the ball rolling its easy to say fuggit lets do it lol.

 

Hopefully by end of the week I can get that other IC pipe done and everything welded.


Edited by joa_taste, 13 February 2017 - 11:31 AM.


#55 Greeko

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Posted 20 February 2017 - 02:42 PM

UPDATE

 

 

Well small update.

So I've gotten miscellaneous parts in finally.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5670.jpg

 

I decided to start with finishing my coolant hoses, but since it would be in the way before I could finish that I needed to finish my turbo drain feed. Lol not going to say its ugly but its super ghetto looking. Since my feed smacked right into my passenger side motor mount I had to use brass piping to make a 90 degree lol.

Anyways I finished the Oil Drain feed and did the hoses. I bought FB3s Rx7 radiator components (aluminum piping, misc. couplers and an overflow reservoir ). It worked well, I did minimal cutting on one of the aluminum pipes to make this work. I think i am going to make a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir that comes off of the Rad/Intercooler bracket. I don't want to do this until I finish doing my IC piping, since i don't want to make unwanted issues or make things harder.

I snapped a quick picture, its been raining out here inconsistently so I really didn't finish much.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5682.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5683.jpg

 

The next thing was starting to mock up my IC piping. I went with Stainless steel since i don't have a TIG. I got two mandrel bent pipes x1 2.25" for hot side, and x1 2.5" for cold side. Im still waiting on the 2.25" mandrel bent pipe but I finished my cold side. On the cold side is where I will mount my BOV. I will weld everything at the same time once I get the pipe for the Hot side. Hopefully I will get this in today.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5671.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5698.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5699.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5700.jpg

 

 

I bought some Speedhut gauges, 4" Tach/Speedo. Which are being made and need 15-20 days to be finished?

I also bought auto meter 2 5/8" Oil, Coolant, Fuel gauges as well.

Figured since I need to wait so many days, i might as well do a Dash Resoration lol.

 

So I removed my dash, lol it wasn't so bad. I thought it were going to be a lot worse TBH.

I guess some guys have to drill out their last screw, but luckily I didn't have to. Looking at my interior with the dash removed makes the car look weird lol. As you can see my dash is going to need a lot of TLC.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5701.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5704.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5705.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5706.jpg

attachicon.gifIMG_5709.jpg

 

Looking over a couple of the Dash resto's Hybridz has, I think I like this one the best.

http://forums.hybrid...ion-new-gauges/

 

Its funny when you start doing swaps. When I started this I told myself I would keep the r180 diff and not do anything interior, but i guess once you get the ball rolling its easy to say fuggit lets do it lol.

 

Hopefully by end of the week I can get that other IC pipe done and everything welded.

I ground out the dash cuts, used epoxy and mat underneath to reinforce, used great stuff foam to fill in the cracks, SEM bumper repair for covering the cracks, SEM flexible bumper glaze for smoothing out the dash then texture coating and paint.

Turned out really good!



#56 Exposed

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 05:39 AM

was rereading your build and noticed you grabbed an ecu from driftmotion. What are your thoughts on it and will you be doing the tune yourself or is it plug and play? I was thinking of grabbing the AEM infinity-6 but kind of hesitate as I haven't used one prior.



#57 joa_taste

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 10:40 PM

was rereading your build and noticed you grabbed an ecu from driftmotion. What are your thoughts on it and will you be doing the tune yourself or is it plug and play? I was thinking of grabbing the AEM infinity-6 but kind of hesitate as I haven't used one prior.

 

I haven't really touched that part yet. My tuner swears by it when it comes to this motor, so I picked it up. Came with the patch harness, Ill let you know how it goes.



#58 joa_taste

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 11:21 PM

UPDATE*

 

So i've been doing a few things here and there but haven't really posted. I figured me posting a bulk of the things I did over the past week, compared to me posting daily would make more sense. That way you guys could see more of things finished, over things that were still in the works. Maybe less of me talking and just letting the pictures do it for me? lol Don't want to seem longwinded.

 

Lets start with the piping. I got that done and welded about a week ago, just had been waiting on the Tbolt clamps. This is self explanatory, I later ended up seeing what clamps would give me hood clearance issues. See below.

 

 

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Might do a bracket for the Overflow Reservoir, might not. Lol we shall see, ill come back to this later.

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Next I ended up getting a cheap Bride seat, so I took the bracket it came with off and made my own bracket. No slider but it seems like its a perfect fit for me. I think OEM seat will go on the passenger side.

 

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Next I ended up getting the ZL1 camaro hood scoop (I just had too it looks so good lol) Got it, Riveted it on, cut accordingly, and of course still clearance issues. The white tape again of course lol. I had to cut a little bit, which sucks but looks cool. I will get hood pins instead of use the stock one. Was thinking about doing a Hydraulic mechanism for the hood hinges, but X'd that idea. Looked around a bit online for someone who might have done it before, still no one?

 

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On to the dash, this has been an on-going project for me lol. Its a little bit more involved, which I don't mind because its taking forever for the speed hut gauges. Just want to make it look right, I think if i don't get this right this time I will bondo the whole entire dash. I think i can do it without doing that but we shall see.

 

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At this point, i am on my 3rd time bondoing and mostly working on the dash for now. Trying to get it as perfect as I can since this will be the focal point of my attention while driving the car lol. 

 

Side note, has anyone taken seats out of the datsun and put them back in? How do you get to all the bolts? I can do the front two bolts, but not the back am I missing something here?

 

 



#59 1969honda

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 06:28 AM

Take a look at Grannyknot's build thread, post#42

http://forums.hybrid...owered-z/page-3

#60 joa_taste

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Posted 24 February 2017 - 10:30 AM

Nice. I like that idea, but idk if I have enough space either where my IC couplers are.





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