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resto-mod 240z best swap

l28 l28et 240z v8 l24 na turbo reliability restomod

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#1 240zwilm11795

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Posted 03 November 2016 - 01:34 PM

I am looking to get a 240z or 260z from 1970-73' and would like to do a complete resto-mod.

I am limited on knowledge and experience as well as tools and space. I would like this car to have the reliability of a daily driver, though it will most likely be used as a weekend car. I am looking for a z with minimal rust that runs, i would like to upgrade the suspension, fix any body issues and interior issues, then finally swap the engine. 

What would be my best option for an engine swap?

Things I am looking for in this car.

-Street legal in New York

-200-300hp 

-very reliable 

-preferably na but not opposed to turbo if it is more reliable

- Have it professionally done 

- quick linear throttle response 

 

I have been doing a lot of research on swaps but could not come to a conclusion. Which engine/tranny combo would be best for my goals and what is a ballpark price range i would be looking at. I understand the price could vary greatly, but considering I need to buy the engine and all components necessary for the swap and pay a professional to install it.

 

Thanks,

 

 



#2 Neverdone

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Posted 03 November 2016 - 04:20 PM

Do you have a budget?

 

Because without that, anything we say other than "You don't need an engine swap to make 200hp" isn't going to do much good.



#3 ZHoob2004

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Posted 03 November 2016 - 05:13 PM

I doubt it's easy/possible to do in New York, but I think a modern 432 clone with a carbed rb20 would be pretty slick. Probably not emissions legal anywhere, actually.

#4 Zetsaz

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Posted 03 November 2016 - 06:18 PM

LS will get you 300 stock, with fairly linear power curve, or at least it'll feel that way with the low end torque if you're driving around in the city. People will always hate and see it's overdone, or stick to the nissan family or whatever, but the reality is it's only swapped so often because it's cost effective, powerful, and reliable. Especially since you're leaning towards NA. 

A stroker could achieve all your goals for a price....

 

L28ET if you're willing to go turbo, but they seem to be getting harder to find.

 

My personal favorite if you don't mind being just over 200hp instead of your 300 would be an NA 2jz. Cheap parts, fulfills your NA requirement, will be plenty peppy, and reliability... well, it's a Toyota. I treated my first car, a 91 celica, like trash and it's what I learned to do automotive work with, and even with all my mistakes and poor maintenance (mainly irregular oil changes) thanks to limited funds, that engine made it to 287k miles before I spun a bearing. And that was a 4AFE,



#5 Greeko

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Posted 03 November 2016 - 06:53 PM

Searching the forums would help before posting something like this... lots of builds with numbers out there.



#6 grillhands

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 02:51 PM

Here is the formula: Cheap,Fast,Reliable and you can only pick two.

#7 seattlejester

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 10:46 PM

Dude make an effort. This is a really lazy post. Also goes against forum rules.

 

If you are looking for street legal then you are going to be in a hard place. Legally you cannot change the size of your muffler, and like most states I believe it is illegal to modify your exhaust. That means whatever engine you run has to run through the stock sized system.

 

Legally you cannot use any part that is listed as "for off road or racing use" which is a huge majority of after market parts.

 

EPA also says any engine switch has to maintain all emission devices which include a stock ECU showing no CEL codes. The only commercially available swap that is kosher is the E-rod LS swap. Given that it is illegal to modify the exhaust though I don't know how you legally can swap an engine in.

 

Fact of the matter is there is plenty of grey stuff. If you upset a LEO and he feels like it every little change can be written up. Your requirement of street legal needs elaboration.

 

The newest car in your search range is 43 years old. Many components on a car are not supposed to last anywhere near that value. Reliability is a result of the weakest link that means a complete overhaul of all items, new bulbs, new sockets, new plugs, new wires, new gauges, new switches.

 

Price? Given that you seem to do no research and the shop would have to do everything for you and you want it "professionally done" I think $100,000 would be a pretty good place to start. We had a forum member do that, had the best parts money could buy and had some of the best builders in the country put his car together. 



#8 madkaw

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 07:20 AM

Tool shed?
Steve,
9/71 240z. 2.4 -.40 over, balanced. E-88 Bigger SS valves, stage 2, 6x2 header, true dual exhaust. BW t-5 , STI LSD 3.90- triple Mikunis 40mm

#9 Zetsaz

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Posted 05 November 2016 - 08:17 AM

Somehow I missed the "have it professionally done" and limited on knowledge and experience and tools and space.....

 

You'll be paying condo price for your car, this is ridiculous. 







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: l28, l28et, 240z, v8, l24, na, turbo, reliability, restomod

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