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Brake booster/master cylinder options on a 73' 240z?

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5 hours ago, NewZed said:

They'd probably let you measure it in the store.  I've done that at OReilly.  It's more interesting for them than just taking money.  They're bored.

 I've done the same at Oreilly's. Sunday mornings are a good time to ask for special service. @Neverdone The Oreilly's at Johnson Creek and 82nd are great guys.

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Just got back from my local Oreilly's, where I looked at a 8.7" booster from a 1997 Tacoma (should be this one). I brought in the busted booster from my 4/77 280Z to compare. The bolt pattern on the firewall side of the boosters are identical! What's not a match is the master cylinder side. The matching master cylinder for this booster is $115 and a 1" bore compared to the stock 7/8". This feels like the simplest solution to me. It'll be a clear upgrade in stopping power, with a bit of an increase in pedal effort. But on the flip side, I'm doing an electric conversion so I get the bonus of regen braking to help alleviate that effort. 

 

Knowing the 1997 Tacoma bolt pattern is a match, we can look at other options online.

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Posted (edited)

I did not check the rod position so I can’t verify that. Also noticed the same thing 720fast did, a reman original for my ‘77 is $100 so I’m leaning that direction. Especially since I could retain my stock master cylinder.

Edited by bawfuls

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That Toyota master cylinder would actually be the main reason to do this swap. Not having to rely on the remaned 15/16th bore 280zx master cylinders which have a history of failure and difficulty getting, or the Wilwood 1" master cylinder which have ALSO failed a few times on some of our members (Miles can chime in here).

 

The Wilwood is also currently going for $152 (https://zcardepot.com/brake-master-cylinder-1-wilwood-240z-260z-280z.html), so it seems like you'd actually come out ahead by going the Toyota route if you're switching to larger brakes and need more fluid to pump through the brake system.

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Posted (edited)

I do not know for sure that my master cylinder needs replacing though. Oreilly claims to have a new 7/8' masters for the 280z available for order (though not in stock) for only $54

 

Or are those not actually compatible? I seem to recall reading about people haveing trouble with Oreilly and Autozone thinking they have compatible masters when they really don't.

Edited by bawfuls

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If you're still running the stock calipers, the 7/8's is perfectly fine. But if you've upgraded to the Toyota S12W's or a larger Wilwood/Whatever brand that will take more fluid, the 7/8's is more than likely not going to be enough.

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Posted (edited)

Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment:

 

-The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. 

-The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the firewall, but it looks to be located in nearly the same spot as the stock one was anyway.

-The brake line connections for this Tacoma master cylinder are located on the side and not the bottom, which means I need to run fresh lines. Thankfully, these are short runs to the junction just below, so it's nbd.

 

A few pictures after install (yes I know I need hose clamps on those vacuum lines between the booster and vacuum pump)

 

SV3W4gI.jpg

 

Cgj6NrF.jpg

 

oG0eFIy.jpg

Edited by bawfuls
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Posted (edited)

I am not sure, it didn't occur to me to try swapping those push rods, in part because I gave my busted old Z booster to Oreilly for a $30 core refund when I bought the Tacoma booster. Chopping it with an angle grinder was pretty easy and quick. The main headache was fitting it into the car, realizing it needed to be chopped, removing it, etc. If I knew from the get go that it needed to be about 1" shorter that would have saved some time and hassle.

Edited by bawfuls

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2 hours ago, bawfuls said:

I am not sure, it didn't occur to me to try swapping those push rods, in part because I gave my busted old Z booster to Oreilly for a $30 core refund when I bought the Tacoma booster. Chopping it with an angle grinder was pretty easy and quick. The main headache was fitting it into the car, realizing it needed to be chopped, removing it, etc. If I knew from the get go that it needed to be about 1" shorter that would have saved some time and hassle.

 

I Have swaped 240z push rods into after market clutch MCs so they connect to the clutch pedal to avoid modifying the push rod. When I replaced my 240z  booster with a 280z booster there was a problem with the brake pedal clevis attaching to the brake pedal so I swapped the push rods.

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43 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

I'm actually looking for a longer push rod as my current one is on the short side so the pedal has slack. Appreciate you taking the plunge!

 

Same here. Let us know if you find a solution.

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