I was having weird problems with uploading photos, but managed to have a little time and work that out.
Back on track.
For those that do not visit the toyota section, I decided to go with a 2jz.
I'll keep this post in regards to the car as a whole, the specifics are going into a conglomerate post for someone looking to do the same.
After multiple sessions of pricing and such it seemed silly to put money into a motor that could at any time go on me and would not be unexpected. I called the machine shop after I decided it might be time to move on. I was worried that I would be fairly in the hole as they had already cleaned, inspected my block, possibly ordered a new crank, and pulled the rods from another set. To my surprise, the machine shop was very happy for me, told me that it would be a "much much much much better swap" to go with the 2jz, and that they would be much happier with me spending my money on that motor, he told me he had yet to get the parts shipped so the crank order would be canceled.
I went back to pickup my block in hopes of passing it off to someone who needed a rebuild. The employee helping me retrieve the block asked what I was going to do, and I told him about my 240z and the 2jz. He turned out to be the owner of the 240z I had seen earlier at the shop which had a V8, and told me that a friend of his had the full works done to his 7m and ended up regretting it in the long run. With further bolster I retrieved the block only to find out that it had some micro fractures along the water jacket near the deck. So even better news I would save on having to spend money on getting that welded. I ended up leaving the block with them for scrap, and the owner turned me away from paying anything, saying that he hopes I would come back for work on the 2jz. That is the second time a shop has refused my money in exchange for repeat business, and I can't wait to go back to them.
I found an ad on craigslist for a 2jz that seemed to fit my tastes, relatively low miles, new belts, new accessories, recent service, and it was recently running. Better start then a regular junkyard motor and the gentleman offered to deliver as well for gas money.
I worked out another deal to swap pans for the ones we need for our car a rear sump, so after I got the motor, I quickly tore it apart to free the lower pan, upper pan, baffle, pickup, and dipstick to trade. With the new pan acquired I could take stock of what I had.
Something I noticed was quite a bit of silicone oozing out of some sealing surfaces, that was good in one way as that meant he did truly pull the parts in question at some point, but bad in others as the excess amount of silicone meant I really needed to dive in to see how it was.
What I found wasn't good, the excess silicone was enough that it was leaving long strips on the inside of the motor just waiting to break loose and block the pickup tube.
That prompted me to visit other places that had been mentioned in his post, such as the timing belt and such.
I pulled the timing cover off to find the area was quite filthy, but was pleased to find a new standard replacement belt. However I was dismayed when I found out that the idler pulley was pitted fairly badly, just waiting to chew up the belt over time. Also I was confused when looking at diagrams as it seemed I was also missing the timing belt guide washer that keeps the belt from moving forward and rubbing against the cover. Made me doubly glad I had taken the effort to look through things. So after discovery I placed a couple orders for replacement parts still trying to keep it on a budget. Eventually this will probably be rebuilt, but I would like to get a few miles out of it as is. From all reports these 2jz motors are very reliable and long lasting so replacing parts just because seems a bit wasteful.
Also on the list was to lower the compression. In NA spec the 2jz-ge non vvti has a healthy 10:1 compression ratio, while that is good in NA spec my thoughts of turbocharging the setup meant I would be best off lowering that to start. That meant a thicker headgasket and while I was in there would be a good time to replace the notoriously strippable head bolts to ARP head studs. The head came off and I was very pleased to find the cross hatching still in tact.
There was a fair amount of sooty looking deposit on the piston tops, but I found that was most likely introduced through the EGR route and a simple wipe of the tops and some very light brushing yielded a very clean surface.
Unbrushed piston in the middle, two cleaned pistons top and bottom.
Given I was waiting for parts I decided that I would use the big sink at my work to try and clean the pans.
It was absolutely filthy, I looked up a few products that people recommended, and even asked the parts store. The parts store guy suggested I just go to a self serve car wash and blast it with hot water, but I only know of one in the area and that one has cameras with signs that say strictly not to do that. He settled on recommending some products and I scooped them up to give them a shot. None of them really worked, I had a parts cleaning aerosol, a spray on degreaser and neither worked well and both smelled awful.
Given this was a work sink, I decided I should find another solution that would work while not smelling awful. I ended up finding a recommendation for mineral spirits, some videos online showed that it should work so I gave it a shot.
Wow that made a difference, it took a few cleaning sessions, but I imagine with a good pressure washer it would be cake walk. I found a spray bottle was really useful for applying to a wide area, I tried brushing it on first, but that seemed not to do as well.
With the pan cleaned, I drilled the hole for the oil return and started wideining the holes to secure the flange for the drain fitting.
Most of my parts have arrived, so next is figuring out the exact lengths I want for the bell housing bolts and getting the block ready to be bolted into the car.