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With the SU's, I would go with SM needles, turn the mix screws about 2 turns down from the top, re-sync the carbs, and verify ignition. should have 18 degrees advance at idle with the vacuum disconnected and plugged. ~Joe

do you have an adjustable fuel regulator? If so richen it up a tad and take it out and see if it helps.

It will be interesting to see how the Helmholtz-style resonator changes things.

4 psi is enough but the fuel supply can meet pressure requirements and not meet volume requirements for an engine under a load.

Well as I change my induction I am also changing the exhaust . I am trying to quiet down the exhaust and also reducing drone I have around 2k . I had cheap resonators on there before and they were making more drone than preventing it I believe . I decided on a single resonator with a J tube targeting the frequency of the drone . It’s a 123 resonator I found on eBay . SS everything including packing . So now my exhaust is 6-2-1-2 ! I also got new mufflers for the rear . Added larger Borlas to replace my Magnaflows . Keeping my fingers crossed that I my choices produces the right results . I will still run two widebands - one for each bank . I was able to tuck this exhaust tighter with the single resonator . I also did all SS this time which is a first . MIG welded most of it and had the collector TIG welded to assure of no leaks . V banded for quick removal

Thanks for the reply! How could the wiring be screwed up for the fuel pump? As far as I understood it, it was simply two wires. When I first got the car running, I didn't have a fuel pump with high enough gallons per minute and the car would shut off under load. I upgraded the fuel pump, and it seems to do the job. It is a 4-7psi 30gpm pump. Do you think this is enough? Thanks!!

@calZ@manimal@jhm @Sam Henao So I finally got around to testing it this weekend and it's bad news. The numbers I'm getting in both thrust align and body align mode are not consistent at all, sometimes being over 2 degrees off measuring back to back with the same method. I tried probably about 5 times with no real consistency in the results. I don't think I messed up the method as I followed the instructional videos on the website exactly. Unfortunately, I'll have to take my car to an alignment shop and let them give it a proper alignment.

Would suggest checking fuel too, engine uses more fuel under load. Depending on how you converted the fuel setup over could be running the bowls dry under load. My problem with my SU conversion was my bad wiring with my electric fuel pump, on cruise would be fine, but on load it would intermittently pulse and not feed enough fuel and the bowls would run dry

Kudos for sticking through with it. I imagine you could get something like a megaspark or even an old spark controller, but then you would have to program in spark tables etc. Would love to see a picture of how it turned out when you get the chance

03-23-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: here are float bowls for the Mikuni HSR carb for my turbo setup. You can see the difference between an unmodified one and the modified one on the left. the overflow tube, look how much larger diameter it is, and the upper right-hand corner of the float bowl is modified, to increase flow for the accelerator pump, advertised as 50% more fuel flow! I had so many problems with my mikuni that I ordered a china copy off of Amazon for $113 shipped to learn about the carb......when it arrived it is EXACTLY the same carb! Some of the knockoffs are not similar, but this is a carbon copy. My mikuni I am convinced is a factory defect. I went ahead and changed all the jets in the china carb to mikuni jets, and put the modified float bowl on there. It is now "correct" and ready to go on!

well, the fun of driving the Z car will go WAY down if you keep an auto trans instead of a manual. I have had both. Manual all the way. At least for a Z car....muscle car would be different.

Going auto 700r4 might be easier. The JTR book explains it. Done by many members here so there is lots of data.

Buy this book first There are a lot of details about the 240Z V8 auto to manual conversion you need to know before you start the project. Purchase and read the JTR V8 conversion manual. You can buy it here: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/jtr-v8-conversion-manuals/products/copy-of-v-8-conversion-manual-for-volvo-200-series

1989 Camaro T5 mated to SBC 350 Basics 1. T5 transmission: The 1989 WC T5 transmission is tilted 15 degrees towards the driver. The 15 deg tilt is absolutely no problem, I have done two just cut away the trans tunnel as in the picture below. The tilt is not noticeable once center console is installed. Unless you want to make a special transmission mount, you will need an 89 Camaro T5 bell housing, driveshaft, flywheel, clutch pressure plate/disk, throw out arm, throw out bearing, clutch slave and a 7/8" clutch MC. Note that there is a V8 and a V6 version of the T5 transmission. They have different spline counts. You will need the V8 version. 2. Bell Housing: 1989 -90 bell housing for V8. Verify that the pivot ball is in place as that part is NLA. 3. Flywheel: 158 tooth flywheel: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-50-6516 4. Clutch Kit: Zoom High Performance Clutch Kits HP1675-1A https://www.summitracing.com/parts/zzz-hp1675-1a/applications/ 5. Clutch Hydraulic Components: Camaro Clutch Slave: Napa sells the Camaro clutch slave. https://www.napaonline.com/p/NCF73110 Clutch Master Cylinder: Both Tilton and Wilwood make 7/8in. clutch master cylinders. The Wilwood unit is more compact allowing use of a larger brake booster. Tilton 74-875U: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-74-875u Wilwood 260-10374: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-10374 6. Clutch Hose and Fittings: Hose: -3 A/N SS hose. Length TBD Roll pin to A/N SS line adaptor Russell 640281 (connects -3 A/N SS line to the Camaro slave): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640281 MC A/N SS -3 A/N line to 1/8in NPT adaptor Earls 961603ERL (connects -3 line to the MC): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-961603erl 6. Starter: Hitachi gear reduction starter or similar unit. 7. Complete 240z brake and clutch peddle assembly swap. 8 MSA/JTR transmission mount See my post of 12 June 18 second post down lots of pictures

Ok, if I were going to get a T-56, what components would I need, like clutch, mounts, bellhousing, etc. This will be my first time doing a swap like this.

You can get a T-56 to fit in an S30 with some work, so you can pick basically whatever Chevrolet manual trans you want.

So I have a chevy 1998 V8 4 bolt 350 small block with a carburetor. Currently I have a 3 speed automatic and I'm not sure what transmission it is, but I want to swap into a manual. I just want to daily and be able to drive on highways. What are the manual transmissions I can use to fit into my 1972 240z?

So I currently have a Chevy 350 small block 1998 4 bolt vortec motor with a carburetor. I bought the 240z like this with 3 speed automatic transmission. I am not sure what transmission it is, but I've had the car for a year and I'm ready for a manual transmission swap. I just want to be able to daily drive the car and be able go on the highway. What manual transmission will be able to fit in the Z. I've seen other forums, but they don't have the information I need. This is going to be my first transmission swap. Thank you.

Little update on this project. I daily drove this car to school all fall until I eventually blew the stock headgasket. I just needed to adjust the megasquirt pots to calibrate the ecu. Car sat most of the winter due to school work and 2 head bolts breaking when doing headgasket. Was easier to just pick up another n42 block, with good rings, hopefully no more oil burn. Looking forward to throwing in 440cc supra injectors with my 2mm kameari head gasket to turn the boost up. Hoping to just continue to clean up the bay this summer, and to start doing bodywork and rewrapping parts of the car.

Clogged exhaust system comes to mind also. Especially if it has a catalytic converter.

Gonna have to use the internet for that one then.

local dealer here told me that they were no longer available

Looks like those might be it but no sizes are listed . I have not heard of this vendor before.

Check the banjo filters where the fuel enters the float bowls. Then I'd do a fuel pressure and volume test. The symptoms all relate to a lack of fuel.

Yep, I bought a few.