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My E31

It’s a 302. I replaced the cam and got aluminum heads, also going with sniper EFI, should be north of 300hp to the wheels. I’ll get it on a dyno to dial in the tune. Yep, got a brand new TREMEC tkx 5 speed manual transmission waiting to go in once I get this engine mount finished. It’ll see some street time 😁, but primarily building it for the track

Yep, same place. Thanks for finding them, was wondering where to buy some. Here is the warning label.

Hey Everyone! I wanted to share a new microfiche/resource sharing website I've been working on. A couple years ago I bought a full set of microfiche slides for the Datsun Zs and scanned them at my local library. I wanted a more easily searchable database of parts and the ability to add things like torque specs, notes, or references. The result is at the link below! Still a work in progress as I still need to verify and clean up the information and number callouts for about 80% of the diagrams but the site is functional. If anyone has ideas on what they'd like to see added in the future feel free to comment or send a message through the contact page! Thanks for looking! https://datsunresource.com/

What's the cubes on your windsor V8? Manual trans? I hope this car hits the street as well as the track!

windows are SWEET!

09-14-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: So I managed to get all of the wiring inside the car done today! Located the OBD II port right on the side of the center console, Ran a thick #4 wire to the alternator power. All the little things that just add up and take a long time. I have the cover for the panel, now I can just cut and fab it, and the big remaining part of the build is done. 3 gauge sensor wires in the engine bay need to be lengthened and installed and but the interior portion is done. I will be fashioning a beautification plate to go over the bolts holding the passenger floor down that didn't come out looking right. PICS:

Oh....I didn't read that. Glad you said something! Did you get yours from the same place? I didn't know you were doing that. That is cool.

Been working on the car, but not a lot of visual progress. Spent a lot of time messing with suspension, trying to get the track width adjusted out to fit my wide body kit better. Think I have the fronts in a decent spot, need to tackle the rears now. I bolted on the angle iron for the engine cradle, using the bolts that attach to the apex subframe. Going to add at least one more vertically closer to the cradle. Now I’m ready to set in the engine to test where it needs to sit so I can weld it together. Cradle is sitting nice and snug to the angle iron, so should be easy to weld up, once it’s in the right place. Windows came in 🥳 I got the tint and the hard coat on them, went with the 4mm. Very happy with how light they are and how they look. Didn’t like the $200 tariff though 😣

Nice, mine just came in too. Not sure why, but you need to remove the plastic. I was going to leave them in the box until I was ready to install, but saw a warning on the box that the plastic protection needed to be removed within 4 weeks.

@brianZortiz how did this all work out for you? I'm wanting to do the same to my Z.

I read a post here, I believe yesterday, about a car with droning exhaust sounds. Can't seem to find it today. He was looking for a Magnaflow muffler that would meet his 14" X 6" requirement. I have a new one, in original, never opened box. It's part number 14519. I'll sell it for $50.00 plus shipping. They sell today for $170.00 or more.

09-13-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE. Only one pic......just a day of finishing up the wiring, about 90% done. Very time consuming. PIC.

This has the potential to be one of the best threads in this site's history. It would be awesome to end up with complete database of head flow for the different combos.

Super cool, thank you for posting.

09-08-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: My rear hatch "glass" (polycarbonate) ordered from Plastics4Performance in England arrived today. As I have mentioned I had them use their template for Ferrari 458 rear window vents. Why? I like the look. Great for flow through ventilation. This is an open air Z anyway. No side windows, and mostly stripped out. I got the 3mm thick one, so thin, and VERY light. It looks cloudy as I haven't peeled off the protective layer of plastic yet. Now, as they told me, some sanding and fitting will be necessary, but I am happy to report it made it across the pond and to my garage! PICS:

The first head to document will be an old E88 from my 72. I used this head a long time ago worth 40DCOE triple Webbers. In typical fashion long long ago I did my best to do what I thought was right. I blended the seats to match the bowls with a grinder, and port matched the head to the intake, opening up the port about 1" in from the entrance to blend the new opening (not good). other than that, stock valves and chambers So lets flow it. Hoping to borrow a stock E88 to compare later. Some pics for referance Here are the head Specs Cylinder 2 Intake with 84mm Bore And Cylinder #2 Exhaust with 84mm Bore I then switched out the bore to 86.5mm and tested again, here is a comparison chart of the effect of only a larger bore Sorry the image is hard to read I need to figure out how to upload better resolution pics, but you can download the PowerPoint below E88_Flow_Bench_Comparison_Cyl2_84mm_vs_86.5mm_FIXED (1).pptx

09-06-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Ok, so I mounted my electric panel into the car and began wiring it up. The garage is SO HOT. I had to go inside and get a fan to blow in there on me (see pic). going pretty well! about 75% done. PICS

I've decided to build a detailed thread to document L-Series cylinder head flow testing and the results. Like many aspects of these engines, it's sometimes hard to know what to believe or how to interpret what you see and read. Test setup, equipment, testing methods, and just straight-up BS can all contribute to the confusion. I don't sell a product or service and have nothing to gain from the results I post, so my goal is to keep the testing unbiased and as consistent and repeatable as possible. Feel free to comment or criticize as I move through this. I'm happy for any input. First up is the equipment. I have a SuperFlow 600 converted to run the digital FlowCom directly to my laptop where I use PortFlow analyzer from Performance trends. This software sets up the test and aids in the data logging and reporting. It also compensates for Altitude, Barometric pressure, ect. So no math or reading of the old school manometers. Its super accurate and very repeatable. I built a L-Series specific test stand and replaceable cylinder bores to test the common sizes, 84mm - 240z , 86.5mm 280z, and 89mm - Big Bore. This has a considerable effect to the max flow due to bore shrouding, so its important to test on the correct size. This is the first place numbers can get "offset" If some guy is flow testing a Z head on his 4" Chevy bore, you bet the numbers will look good. More on this later. These bores are made of nylon and seal to the test stand with an o-ring. However any leakage can still occur, so the software takes a zero measurement first, and this leakage is then subtracted out automatically Next up is calibration - the bench should be calibrated on a regular basis to check for issues. You do this by bolting the supplied test plate that is matched to the machine and simply flowing it. Here you can see the plate bolted on, it has calibration flow percentages written on it to compare Ans this is the screen on the laptop, you can see the bench is within .1 percent calibration for the intake and exact for the exhaust Ill flow and document the heads I have as well as some I will borrow from friends. Some will be stock, some will be modified to various states. Ill also do some test to help point out important details. So stay tuned Thanks - monZter

couple videos the wife had taken. looking over some datalogs this morning. Car never got over 201ºF in any log that I could see. I can't find a spot in a log where the oil temp even got over 200ºF. oil pressure never dipped on any turns or hard braking. Really impressed the car didn't skip a beat. For a shakedown i was pleasantly surprised. New track for me so i worked on me as a driver rather than swings at setup changes to bandaid a driver problem but my lap times where improving fairly significantly every session and was having so much fun doing it. 20260905_111217.mp4 20260905_173624.mp4

Last weekend i got the offer to run a single day of a multi day event if I wanted to shake down the car. So i scrambled all week getting a bunch of things checked off the list. a couple days getting up at 5am and working for a couple hours before work and then to 10-11pm after work but got it so i could run it. Added a front splitter. strut bar, seat belts. fuel cell bulkhead, fire extinguisher, coolant overflow, battery tie down and kill switch, tow hook, brake bias controller, some tuning changes and im sure a few more things. But i made it. My uncle and I loaded up friday evening and saturday morning drove an hour and a half to the track. Had a great time. car was an absolute trooper and didnt skip a beat. New track for me so had some getting used to the track and the car. but i did 4 sessions problem free, I didn't change a single thing all day. found one loose bolt after session 3 that i caught before it was a problem. Car performed well. Had a fairly competitive pace by the end. Anyway. huge photo dump

09-05-2026 ATLAS Z UPDATE: Today was a light day for the car, with a few odds and ends, and getting ready to re-install the electric "panelboard" and begin tying all the wires in. Poured the antifreeze into the engine, I decided to use the DEX COOL as recommended by GM for their engines....A.I. also states it is better than regular old green antifreeze, so I went that route. I painted the cap on the radiator and put a Z sticker I had made for it, began the touch up on the hood, which....once hard, will be sanded with 2000 grit and polished smooth. I painted a couple Atlas Z brackets I had made earlier, and will install them in a day or so, and the last piece I needed for the panelboard, the batt power tie in arrived. Hopefully, I will separate the wires and begin wiring the car in tomorrow. PICS CompareCar Insurance

Haven't been here in a while, but I had no problems getting on today. Seems fast so far. Edit: Spoke too soon. Just came back on, and got an error, and when the site finally loaded after a few refreshes it seemed slow.

That's pretty much where I've ended up the last several years. I know some people prefer a staggered setup; but I really much prefer a square setup, for tire rotation and replacement purposes. Very much enjoying this build, and the ongoing discussion in this thread! 👍👍