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Not a 12v supply. I mainly followed DIYAuto’s how to mega squirt post which said to use the same power source. Megasquirt’s db37 supplies the ground and signal wire for the dizzy

Couple of small things coming up as I prep the car for summer -Still super unhappy with the fitment on the exhaust, especially after the rear bracing was added. Have gotten in touch with some folks that do stainless about some adjustments. -New vinyl trim for the rear arrived. Won't be tearing anymore and won't have the holes on top of the strut towers. Should finally be able to start buttoning up the interior. -Purchased a new valve cover. This one came up and seller accepted my offer. Red might have been better, but it was sold. The bronze will sort of match the interior and right now I think it's a good homage to the original brown paint on the first shell I had that was unfortunately beyond saving. I think I'll eventually modify mine to relocate the breather, and shave some of the bits with threaded holes are for the old spark plug cable holders and make it red with polished lettering like the one on the right. - Also had a friend help with a better design on the distributor cover. The original was just a very plain 3d printed cover. Friend has a nicer printer that can do much smoother work with carbon and started making a better design when I sent him the old one and he didn't like it haha. Should be a fun change. The plan is to print it in black and maybe fill the Z logo with enamel

Why would dizzy power be spliced into power for the MS unit ? Isn’t there an output for the dizzy?

We usually call it a balance bar in English

Spoke too soon, the fuel pump issue is NOT fixed. It still cuts out randomly. Throwing a multimeter on the power wire, when it cuts, the voltage drops from 14 to 12, not sure if that drop is enough to cause the issue, or if that is a side effect of the issue. I redid my main megasquirt ground on the block, and also made sure my relay grounds were clean. Wiggling the distributor wires had no effect and did not cause the cut. Neither did wiggling where the dizzy is spliced into the megasquirt power wire. I'm going to monitor the main relay's voltage to see if that's cutting. In other news, I copied the ve table and afr table from the map pin with similar specs and the car runs and revs well, except when the car shuts down for a second.

Hello, Yes it will be serviceable. I dont have any brake booster as i have two master cylinders, one front and one rear so they sit flush to the fire wall. on the inside there are a pivot rod between the cylinders were the pedal connects, it is possible to alter the point were the pedal press on the pivot rod(front/rear). I'm sure there is a English word for this but ......i dont know. Did not take the engine out today, maybe tomorrow. There was a lot of cables though that went to cable heaven🤣.

Jim Cook Racing has a face book group.

Clean work. I like the plate over the wiper fluid. Will the brake booster and reservoir be serviceable after this is welded down?

Delete please

I would suspect that you could copy the values from almost anyone's VE and AFR Tables that have a close to same stock engine with your injector size and be much closer to smooth than what you have now...

It’s going to be tough to ‘feel’ your way around a tune and trying to dial it in off your VE table . I would get some help tuning - like is in a passenger that can drive while you tune . If you think the wideband is even close I would use it to get you in the ballpark . Put some realistic numbers in your AFR table and try it

good evening gents ! Small parts that takes time has happens, washer fluid bottle bracket, lower radiator hose, radiator sitts were it should, homemade thermostat housing. As we have holiday in Sweden tomorrow i'm going to take the engine out tomorrow for further work in the engine bay, ac lines, heater lines,weld old holes that is not in use, electrics(wire loom) and so on😴. Have a nice evening

Good news, looks like I found my issue, the power does not cut and the fuel pump works perfect. My issue was the signal wire being loose on the DB37 connector itself. I also redid the power connection, but I'm not sure if that was contributing to the issue, I just redid it to cover my own wiring. With that issue out of the way, tuning is now my main priority, which is tough with these AEM issues now. I think the gauge is reading correctly as when it shows lean, it does lean misfire, and does bog down when it says it rich, but I don't trust AEM after your reply Madkaw and what I've been reading the past few days. I hear good things about innovate, which DIYAuto offers, I'll probably just pick one of those up. However, I am trying to make it to Carlisle import here in PA on Saturday, so I'll just have to tune by feel and sound. I really just need a drivable tune, not for power or economy. If you guys have any tips based on my fuel table provided, I would appreciate it. I know my afr chart needs to be worked on a lot, but that really isn't in play atm.

I had nothing but issues with an AEM wideband on a customers car . After googling I read about many customers having issues do to faulty O2 sensors that AEM knew about .

I'll repeat myself one last time, the issue is with power to the unit. Look at the symptoms, all the outputs from megasquirt are cutting off at the same time. Check your powers, check your grounds, check your relay, use your brain.

Looking at this picture, I have my dizzy wired as follows (Color on pic - My wiring): Red - 12v from shielded wire, Black - ground from shielded wire, White - Signal wire to ms, Green - Not used. Reading other posts from Chickenman, using the diy wheel flips the green and white connections, but when I put the signal wire where the green is, ms does not read any rpm signal? Wonder if this is part of my issue?

I have an AEM 30-0300 wideband installed after the turbo. It works well and passes tests to ensure it is working properly. The issue is, I can’t get it to sync properly in tunerstudio. Tunerstudio will only display 19.10 afr when on the aem 30-3xx wide and calibration setting where the gauge will display 14. The tunerstudio value doesn’t really change, and I have wideband authority set to 0 so it doesn’t change anything. I’m pretty sure have it wired correctly with power, ground, signal to pink, and heater ground. I do have the upgraded version of tunerstudio, but I haven’t been able to use tuner analyze because it’s not the correct afr reading. I redid my fuel pump ground the other day just to rule that out, and both power and ground connections were tight and clean. I’m pretty sure it’s something to do with the dizzy, as Zboi pointed out that I loose rpm signal when it happens. I’m going to go through that wiring today.

Now that I looked at your AFR table and VE table I can see why it doesnt run well. Do you have tuner analyze? Its very good

Curious why you arent incorporating the AFR table in general settings? . Sure you dont have a loose connection on the fuel pump?

Got some good logs today. Seems like it's getting some noise. Although, what's weird is that tunerstudio doesn't always flag it as noise. Attached is a tooth log and composite log. Some pages of the composite log show it missing or not being able to interpret a whole section of the trigger wheel 5.csv 2024-05-07_11.43.23.csv

recently had a 260z tow'd home that wouldnt roll. had to drag onto flatbed. apparently i need to take it back to the DMV for VIN verification since its out of the system. sheesh. This worked perfectly. Still had to smack one side with the dead blow to brake free the drum from the studs??? something. it would spin freely but would not budge/pull off. shot some PB Blast on studs, let it sit and then beat the L out of it til it finally broke loose. Thank you for posting/sharing this knowledge!

Megasquirt has it's own switched 12v. My circuit goes: Battery - Key on relay - fuse block - megasquirt. The dizzy has it's own 12v + ground from the shielded wire. What do you mean by another wire from switched? Are you saying the ecm needs 12v from the batt with a fuse, or switched power? I wired everything according to the attached pic.

You need to be pulling a power wire straight off the battery to the ECM, and then another power wire from switched 12v.

Yes, that's the fuel pump relay clicking, and yes, the tach signal is coming from megasquirt. At the Dizzy, I have the power wire and signal wire connected, and then ground going to chassis. I have tried grounding at both the chassis and dizzy connection, both have the same result. I have noticed, in tunerstudio, I do get quite a bit of sync loss on the counter, however, tooth logs seem to be fine.

Ok, so heard a clicking sound which was at the same time your tach signal cut too (RPM needle dropping instantly). Is the clicking the fuel pump relay or something else? The tach signal is coming from the megasquirt ECM right? If yes then this is the power to the whole unit cutting on and off. Either from bad power/ground or faulty ECM.