Jump to content
HybridZ

Poll - Do you loop the coolant or plug up the holes?


trwebb26

L6 engines - Loop the coolant or plug off the ports?  

15 members have voted

  1. 1. L6 engines - Loop the coolant or plug off the ports?

    • I run a hose between the ports and "loop" the coolant
    • I plug the ports. Looping not required.


Recommended Posts

For as much money as people spend on their L6 engines - I think there really should be a best practice for when you take the heater out of the circuit. I want to get to the bottom of it. I'm thinking about running a test of some sort on my engine using thermocouples and some kind of valve setup to measure flow rate. One datapoint will be how everybody have done it on their cars. So time for a poll - please participate and post any kind of experiences you have good or bad looping or plugging. Please also include what version of head you run.

 

Here is a pic of my engine looped:

0036.JPG

 

Here is a post about the subject.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107364

 

So do you loop or plug?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My thinking behind looping the system was this:

With the heater core in the circuit the coolant was able to flow the external route. Maybe this flow was only designated to provide heat to the cabin, but it might also serve to route coolant in the head. I wasn't exactly sure, but I knew that keeping the flow there wasn't going to hurt anything and I wanted to get my engine in asap.

Can they be plugged without any adverse effects? Probably ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DON'T loop them. You are creating a short path from the back of the cylinder head directly back to the inlet of the water pump, so you are recirculating HOT water, instead of runnning that hot water back through the radiator first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DON'T loop them. You are creating a short path from the back of the cylinder head directly back to the inlet of the water pump, so you are recirculating HOT water, instead of runnning that hot water back through the radiator first.

 

Yeppers!!! This was covered in the head cooling tread that is a sticky now. You should read it, very facinating!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ron, I totally agree with you on that! Gawd, how hard is it to block the holes? It serves no purpose if there is no heater core. Even the external bypass from the thermostat housing back to the WP (via the intake manifold) had a mini thermovalve to stop the flow once operating temps were reached. The internal bypass in the head prevents cavitation at the WP at that point and ensures the thermostat is seeing actual cylinder head coolant temperature. Removing this path allows the thermostat to operate more effectively and stabilize temps. The heater, when used, also effectively removed some heat from the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thought of 'the heater core allows flow' is incorrect.

The heater core is BLOCKED! That is the purpose of the heater control valve.

If the heater control valve is opened, allowing flow, the water is COOLED before reintroduction to the water pump suction port.

 

I can't tell you how many OEM Radiatored 240Z's I have 'fixed from overheating' in So Cal simply by cutting that damnable looped hose, and installing two spark plugs and some hose clamps!

 

Looping the hose is not recommended, and not proper. Period. It's blocked when not in use, just like (for SoCal at least) 95% of the time you are driving around without the heater on.

 

By the time you need a heater, loss of cooling capacity due to inadequately cooled recirculated water is not an issue. Matter of fact, anybody notice the engine warms up slightly quicker when you turn on the heater, but don't turn the fan on 'high'?

 

That kind of tells you something right there...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay so I remembered wanting to do this for a long time.

 

Then I forgot.

 

Then I saw this thread and said " Oh yeah, I remember... Let's do it"!!

 

Here's what I ascertained: (All temp. measurements were done with an Autometer water temp. gauge which has its' sensor right before the thermostat in the housing.) These are all preliminary observations as well.

 

Plugging the holes seems to stabilize the temperature of the coolant.

 

It seemed that the thermostat first opened at a higher temp. than it did with the heating hoses looped into one another. BTW I have a 180 degree F thermostat.

 

The car also seemed to run a little hotter (3-4 degrees F) than it has been.

 

But once the thermostat was open it stayed open. This is how I remember it working when I had a functioning heater.

 

When the loop was in place the thermostat opened and closed alot in the course of normal vehicle operation.

 

Aesthetically it cleaned up the engine bay a little more so that is always beneficial...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, after removing my loop and plugging the holes my car operates...

 

...pretty much like it always has.

 

But removing the loop takes a weak point and aesthetically unpleasing

 

part out of the engine bay.

 

That seals the deal for me...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd really be interested to see ANY objective evidence on looping being beneficial.

 

I don't see confusion, save for the people looking to loop.

 

Those who don't loop, aren't confused!

 

 

pffft!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...