Brad-ManQ45

No - the stock injectors won't support your goal. The stock turbo injectors are good to about 240...

ATI makes an adapter kit, but you have to buy a modified torque converter to go with it. I bought the kit along with a modified lockup converter and plan to install it this year. I think the converter is 9 inch - the same size as the lockup for the Supra 2jz adapter kit they make.

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but I just had a conversation with Schneider cams and they DO make one hydraulic grind for the P90A head. It is the mild grind good to 6000 rpm. They supply the specific lash pad thickness to use on a by cam basis after grinding due to the smaller base circle since there is no way to ascertain the measurement with hydraulic setup. Just wanted to make sure the proper info is available. The nice thing about the cam is the 114 degree lobe centers.

Probably the ignitor for the ignition...

Title says it all - both to and from fuel rail. Thanks, Brad

Or an alarm switch.

These are unobtanium.

I have a turbo manifold with T4 flange on it...

I have lowbacks from an '83 Turbo in Marietta, GA...

Title says it all. For stock T3 turbine.

I have one w/a T4 flange on it - otherwise stock. Marietta, GA.

Envy that Euro exhaust manifold...

I would suggest that if the car is basically street/highway driven that you size the A/R of the turbine section so that you are not in boost when cruising on the expressway for gas mileage purposes. Perhaps those with experience can make a suggestion based on the 50 trim compressor section turbo and the GT35...

Having lived w/ turbo cars since the mid 80's I would suggest that any car that will be used as a daily driver have a water cooler center section. When by '83ZXT's turbo finally shot craps I used a Turbonetics water cooler T3 and it currently has more miles than the original turbo and is going strong. YMMV...

That looks like the non ducted Xenon urethane air dam...also their side skirts

I wonder if one of those wires is to the TPS... Don't have a schematic handy...

To make sure that the terminology is correct - a Splitter extends forward from the bottom of the front bumper/air dam and divides the flow of air above and below. The Undertray is what is after the bumper/air dam extending back to or even past the front of the engine. I believe the OP was about the Undertray having either a kick up or a kick down and which would provide more downforce. I don't KNOW and can only SUSPECT that an Undertray that slnts UP from behind the air dam before it flattens out to the front of the engine ar even further back (providing that it doesn't impinge on the airflow through the radiator) would help with little aero drag - might even help keep the front end down... A kickdowm would create more turbulence and disrupt airflow after the plate. Designing the undertray to direct air toward the wheelwell from above the tray while keeping the flow as straight as possible below would seem to be the best bet. Keep in mind that in this scenario that ideally the bottom of the air dam if only using an Undertray or if using a splitter the height of the splitter would be below the level of the floor pans. The amount of kick up is therefore limited by the difference in height above ground of those 2 measurements. If there is no difference then no kick up. If the floor pans are lower than the height of the bottom of the air dam/splitter then a gradual taper to that height would smooth the flow under the car, but I could see that providing some lift at the expense of less drag.

What turbine A/R are you running on those for the 2.0 and would you change for a 2.8? Inquiring mind wants to know.... Thx!

Sounds like what happens when electrcal connections get wet. Check the TPS...

Please be aware that the EFI units used on the L series engines are analog and not digital. Also the use of an AFM instead of a MAS creates a restriction. I have yet to see an instance of a modern EFI system properly tuned NOT providing more hp, torque, driveability and gas mileage throughout the entire power range vs a carb setup. In the case of high horsepower/rpm setups operating in a narrow range a carb setup can work just as well and be simpler.

NewZed - apparently you are reading something into my posts that I did not put there. I have simply said that I am disappointed that they do not wish to build an intake to my specifications backed by not only real world experience as testified to by others on this forum but by racers and hot fodder since the 60's when I first started working on our '65 Mustang convertible. I have no problem with their right to refuse the work. I just don't think their reasoning was very well thought out. It appears that they are after that last % in power and don't want to associate with all-round performance. If they did then their comments about my request for an anti-reversion step for what is to be a max 6k rpm engine used as a daily driver being against their principles/experience seems not only narrow-minded but flies in the face of what others experience has been. Please don't go putting words in my mouth.

Just wanted to let people know that ATI still can make their kit for this. I orders one in Feb. and got it last month...so it takes a while.

I may be wrong, but I believe the .82 on the 30 series is pretty much the equivalent of the .63 on the 35 series as far as flow goes. It's been a while since I looked at the maps for the housings...

I may be wr9ng and if so I'm sure TonyD or someone else will correct me - but I believe the stock cams ARE assymetrical...

Interesting Climber... Will have to keep an eye on what you come up with... As I might have stated, because I will have a GM 4L60E behind the engine I am imposing a 6K rpm limit. Combined with my preference to use my hydraulic lifters I am looking to maximize flow throughout the stock rpm range. Hence the anti-reversion step and need for a custom plenum. I have scoped out a supplier for tapered runners and velocity stacks. Am thing the stacks that protrude into the plenum and runners that taper down to ~33-34mm and of course well ported heads will combine to work to make ~400 up at a relatively low boost. As guru TonyD has so often said - it's the PACKAGE as a whole that determines success or failure. I can't help but think that a custom manifold would be better than trying to work with the stock one.