Brad-ManQ45

I know I have to use a CAS with this, but I am taking about what is needed to use the jeep unit for the sync signal.

Somewhat sorry for redirecting this thread, but it looks like if you have a turbo engine all you need to do instead of slotting is remove the appropriate amount off one side to drive the CAS... Correct me if I'm wrong... I have my original ZXT distributo, shaft and DIYAutotune wheel for the turbo distributor and intend to go sequential and this seems to be the low buck way to get rid of the distributor.

I pulled the trigger on one of these taking advantage of their Black Friday sale and just received it. Very well packed in professionally designed /shaped foam and looks like a work of art.

It is cast steel - not cast iron. Many have welded Eastgate provisions with not problems...

Take some pics and post for best advice - no one is making patch panels for these any more. I have a MIG welder and custom grabbed half a firewall and inner fender panel and battery tray for my ZX after a battery exploded starting the car in winter and rusted... bought a bead roller to duplicate the panels exactly... Should be fairly easy to weld patches in... Alternatively, Showcar Body Parts in Ontario shows new and used fenders on their website but I seem to remember some cautions about them...

I replied but haven't heard yeah or nay ..

I have one with a T4 flange and wastgate downpipe... Not sure if you're interested... I'm in Atlanta, GA.

It will show stable voltage, but not have enough amps to keep charged... Starts fine but later on restarts more and more difficult...

If a diode is bad in your alternator, it will show good voltage but won't have enough amperage to charge properly - ask me how I know...

Mitsubishi used the overdrive transmission on Stations and Conquests...

Me too!

You need to by cam & springs as a kit...

Injectors too small... I'd go with 440 cc injectors.

I'd get the P90 head and not use the P79... Keep the timing conservative.

https://www.50ignite.com/blog/technical-blog/article-3-back-to-back-testing-of-370z-coils-re-co/

Thought so - thanks.

Getting two different messages when entering the site - Date-Time is not set correctly, and Unsafe site. Started 2 days ago. What's up?

I am looking to see if anyone has one - if you have ANY .82 I can always have it machined, but at what cost? I have both stock Nissan and 5 bolt Garrett .63 standard housings if you want to dicker. I even have two water-cooled T3/T4 CHRA's., an S Trim Clipped turbine turbo, and a .54 Trim Clipped turbine T3... I can get a new one for less than $300, and machining one will cost

Plenty of test showing more than twice the energy from the REAL R35 coils - they are the only ones that are second to the AEM coils.

IGC0079 is the coil from the GT-R and should be used for boosted engines. The IGC0003 is for 350 Z's and G35's and don't provide enough spark under boost.

Any before/after stories on these?

Used to be able to mark individual forums...

Title says it all...

I have a 280ZX Turbo that I have a MS2 body kit for. What do I need to do where the car is painted and will be using panel bond and kitty glass to mold the front, rear and side panels in? Sand to metal, epoxy primer, panel bond, kitty glass and bondo/ Rage? Thanks

If you use epoxy primer you can wait until be all bodywork is finished...