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Brad-ManQ45

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Everything posted by Brad-ManQ45

  1. TimO: Is that for the exhaust manifold? I can see them doing the intake... TonyD: Is there a link to the writeup JeffP did for the stock exhaust manifold? I couldn'see it on his website. Thanks, Brad
  2. Are you using the stock distributor setup? if so you may have a bad ignitor...
  3. I bought the last ArizonaZ gnose and had it crated and shipped via Greyhound. Still in crate. PM me your email and I can send pics of it that are no longer on site.
  4. I'm looking for one. If anyone has/can make one or knows somebody... Thx
  5. I hope that the picture does not represent exactly where you intend to mount the engine - too far forward and high,,,
  6. Think trying to direct the flow against the "flat" part of the blades as it spins gulping in air as opposed to directly at the "edges" of the blades...
  7. the dump from the valve I agree should b3 as close to the turbo inlet as possible - and I ALSO AGREE THAT IF IT CAN BE "aimed" at th3 inlet it would be better. I believe we are in agreement.
  8. DAT280ZXT: Hence my recommendation of closer to the TB the better... Had an HKS intercooler kit w/one on an '85 Conquest. That got totalled when rear-ended and put the valve on the '87 Station ESIR I bought to replace the Conquest...at the beginning of the model year. I had to fab the pipework for it. When finished I called up HKS and told 'm they should make a a kit - hence the approximately $230 kit they came out with later.
  9. Closer to the throttle body is better. Get an intercooler and plumb it into the piping.
  10. I have an '83ZXT that I am working on and will have a GM auto behind. Thinking I might like to have a rear gear that is 3.08 or 3.36 in it because of the very short 1st gear ratio. Seems that because of the rear subframe that there may be issues with connecting the driveshaft to the front of the diff requiring a bit of surgery to the subframe for access, but haven't really spent much time underneath. Has anyone else considered something like this?
  11. I am thinking of using the distrbutor only for the single sensor for TDC on #1, then a crank sensor for the sequential needs.
  12. Two side benefits of water injection are a bit more torque (steam expands) and keeping carbon deposits down in combution chamber and back of valves...
  13. Please describe in detail the conditions that you engine shuts down under (ex: WOT passing xxxx rpm, etc.)...and is it a complete loss of power?
  14. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm The above link has a pretty good explanation of what to look for in a turbo compressor. It does not show the GT 30 or GT35 ball bearing turbos though. I think the 3076 would be good compared to the GT35. Personally and for the money a T3/T4 .50 Trim E series compressor w/.63 AR stage III turbine would be ideal.
  15. Maybe I'll just get an LSx engine & 6speed auto ande PCM from a Corvette or Camaro and call it quits. A 4L60E behind the Turbo engine makes for a too short 1st gear...
  16. Just wondering if anyone had thoughts on this...
  17. I'd ceramic coat the manifold to keep the heat in. 1/4" of clearance is all you need.
  18. I have Flo-Fit seats in mine and bought the brackets from them.
  19. 7 psi w/intercooler is probably getting close to maxing out fuel around 4500-4800 rpm. More like 10psi w/o intercooler. I bet your RRFPR ain't working.
  20. If your adapter plate is 1/2" then you might want to contact Warren. He can provide a whole kit for mounting a Chevy/Buick/Pontiac auto behind the L28 - CNC'd adapter plate.
  21. He doesn't have a MAF - he has an AFM - completely different. If you NEED an external wastegate, then your turbo is too big for the engine most times. (I know, I know - boost creep issues enter in here). Before yougo that route, you're going to need better fueling, so I would start off with ECU and injectors on the stock, low stressed system, then add boost and bigger turbos after getting thinhs right first - and gaining better driveability...
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