Brad-ManQ45

Two side benefits of water injection are a bit more torque (steam expands) and keeping carbon deposits down in combution chamber and back of valves...

Please describe in detail the conditions that you engine shuts down under (ex: WOT passing xxxx rpm, etc.)...and is it a complete loss of power?

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm The above link has a pretty good explanation of what to look for in a turbo compressor. It does not show the GT 30 or GT35 ball bearing turbos though. I think the 3076 would be good compared to the GT35. Personally and for the money a T3/T4 .50 Trim E series compressor w/.63 AR stage III turbine would be ideal.

Maybe I'll just get an LSx engine & 6speed auto ande PCM from a Corvette or Camaro and call it quits. A 4L60E behind the Turbo engine makes for a too short 1st gear...

Looking for long gears....

Just wondering if anyone had thoughts on this...

I'd ceramic coat the manifold to keep the heat in. 1/4" of clearance is all you need.

I have Flo-Fit seats in mine and bought the brackets from them.

7 psi w/intercooler is probably getting close to maxing out fuel around 4500-4800 rpm. More like 10psi w/o intercooler. I bet your RRFPR ain't working.

'83 distributor $75 + shipping.

If your adapter plate is 1/2" then you might want to contact Warren. He can provide a whole kit for mounting a Chevy/Buick/Pontiac auto behind the L28 - CNC'd adapter plate.

'83 dizzy/cas $$90 shipped.

Zero Rust.

He doesn't have a MAF - he has an AFM - completely different. If you NEED an external wastegate, then your turbo is too big for the engine most times. (I know, I know - boost creep issues enter in here). Before yougo that route, you're going to need better fueling, so I would start off with ECU and injectors on the stock, low stressed system, then add boost and bigger turbos after getting thinhs right first - and gaining better driveability...

I have one - took it off my '83 turbo when I pulled the engine to start welding in half a firewall and inner fender/battery tray. $75 +$11.35 shipping USPS Med. Flat Rate Box. PM me if you want it.

Dexter: The pipe wasn't completely blocked, but almost. Randy: I've already replaced my bags a few years ago, but now I'm gonna hafta start investigating why the light comes on after about 10 minutes of driveing - I might take you up on your offer. My brother-in-law has an '03 Navigator with ~0 compression on #7 cylinder and is looking at ~$4500 to replace the POS original driver's side head with the new and improved (read re-engineered after realizing they screwed up and won't cover it by recall) head....

I recently had to replace the intake manifold on my '96 Town Car. The original manifold was replaced at factory expense due to the class action lawsuit over the water crossover cracking. THAT manifold 4 years later developed a crack at the passenger rear and was leaking water near the heater outlet. The people that did the work (I only do minor stuff on daily drivers) said they had cleaned out the EGR tube because it was clogged up. This was last month and I'm here to tell you that in spite of colder weather, I am getting .8 MPG better. This sort of reinforces a few points about modern factory EFI and emissions that has been brought up in the past. Basically, the ability to dial in a bit more advance because EGR is being introduced to lower combustion temperatures causes not only less emissions but better gas mileage. And this doesn't just apply to Ford engines. I remember reading about the LT1 engine when it first came out and Chevrolet basically said the same thing. If any of you are thinking that you are going to be daily driving a car you are building, I would seriously consider using a factory EFI system that you can tune yourself to take advantage of the built in engineering for both emissions and mileage they represent, and avoid ripping out ALL emissions stuff.

I have a pair of 280 ZXT axles you can have for $100 - I'm in Marietta, GA...

I have an Arizona Z 1 piece G-nose in a crate that can be shipped via Greyhound (the way I got it from AZ. No hinges - just the fiberglass. $500 + shipping.

It may have a Pacesetter exhaust on it, but they didn't make a manifold...

I'm a big believer in SeaFoam. I would advise that you do the intake manifold treatment before changing plugs in case so gunk from valves comes off onto your new plugs and dirties them. I have used it on two cars (intake and gas treatment only - I use good oil and change regularly so no need to use in oil) and have had positive results both times in idling and off throttle pick-up.

I would think about moving the wastegate boost reference to the manifold too...

Mind if I ask what was done for the engine rebuild? If it smoked before rebuild, and you have a new turbo, then possibly the valve guides are worn (vacuum pulls in oil). What kind of valve stem seals did you use on the rebuild?

Any motorcycle shop should be able to set you up too. I just purchased an electronic flasher for my RD350 - not using LED's yet, but why replace again? Mine is a 2 wire flasher.

Just run on the wideband.