Brad-ManQ45

I recently had to replace the intake manifold on my '96 Town Car. The original manifold was replaced at factory expense due to the class action lawsuit over the water crossover cracking. THAT manifold 4 years later developed a crack at the passenger rear and was leaking water near the heater outlet. The people that did the work (I only do minor stuff on daily drivers) said they had cleaned out the EGR tube because it was clogged up. This was last month and I'm here to tell you that in spite of colder weather, I am getting .8 MPG better. This sort of reinforces a few points about modern factory EFI and emissions that has been brought up in the past. Basically, the ability to dial in a bit more advance because EGR is being introduced to lower combustion temperatures causes not only less emissions but better gas mileage. And this doesn't just apply to Ford engines. I remember reading about the LT1 engine when it first came out and Chevrolet basically said the same thing. If any of you are thinking that you are going to be daily driving a car you are building, I would seriously consider using a factory EFI system that you can tune yourself to take advantage of the built in engineering for both emissions and mileage they represent, and avoid ripping out ALL emissions stuff.

I have a pair of 280 ZXT axles you can have for $100 - I'm in Marietta, GA...

I have an Arizona Z 1 piece G-nose in a crate that can be shipped via Greyhound (the way I got it from AZ. No hinges - just the fiberglass. $500 + shipping.

It may have a Pacesetter exhaust on it, but they didn't make a manifold...

I'm a big believer in SeaFoam. I would advise that you do the intake manifold treatment before changing plugs in case so gunk from valves comes off onto your new plugs and dirties them. I have used it on two cars (intake and gas treatment only - I use good oil and change regularly so no need to use in oil) and have had positive results both times in idling and off throttle pick-up.

I would think about moving the wastegate boost reference to the manifold too...

Mind if I ask what was done for the engine rebuild? If it smoked before rebuild, and you have a new turbo, then possibly the valve guides are worn (vacuum pulls in oil). What kind of valve stem seals did you use on the rebuild?

Any motorcycle shop should be able to set you up too. I just purchased an electronic flasher for my RD350 - not using LED's yet, but why replace again? Mine is a 2 wire flasher.

Just run on the wideband.

I think the 2+2's had R200's...

I have two different HF AD Helmets - the cheapest one purchased 8 years ago and the Flame one w/replaceable battery. Both work well. I let anyone who wants to watch use either the standard Jackson helmet I purchased when taking classes at the local Vo-Tech or the least expensive HF AD. I of course use the better one w/battery - but then I am usually a lot closer to the work. I always lay the helmets out in the sun for a few minutes before using - don't think it makes a diff, but never had a failure either...

All ZX Turbos came w/R200's - only NA's came w/R180's guys...

Don't forget the tendency to hydroplane.

The purpose of running the cooler AHEAD of the radiator exchanger is to lower the temp of the fluid BEFORE hitting the exchanger. Transmissions do not like cold fluid either - they like it heated, so having the cooler ahead of the exchanger allows the exchanger to help heat the fluid to operating temperature. The cooled tranny fluid will not put as much load on the cooling system, thereby increasing IT'S efficiency.

Linkage

??????? You are definitely not phrasing your question properly, because I don't know what you are trying to ask. Remember that part of that 60 degrees is taken up by the maximum advance you run. If you are asking what the maximum advance you can use - it depends on what engine and its' setup you are talking about. More info needed.

MS wants at least 60 degrees to allow for processing time. The more magnets - the more accurate your timing...

U joints were replaced where? Halfshafts or Driveshaft? You could have an out of balance driveshaft, tho if it's worse on decel it sounds like a U joint...

According to the JTR swap manual, autox'rs use the cast iron ones for better braking -0 cast iron is considered an upgrade on 510's which came stock w/aluminum drums.

You could get close w/a .66:1 reduction drive on the T5 tranny/speedometer output and set the Speedo to read KPH (which would use all 3 digits). You would be a bit off, but with a bit taller tire you'd be close. YOu'd be the diff between .62 (actual KPH/MPH reduction and the .66 that the actual reduction gearing has that JTR offers.

How much are they charging you to repair it?

PM'd you.

Seafoam in the oil. You may want to do the top end treatment too.

Also, switching to C25 will help. CO2 is hotter than an argon/CO2 mix...

Have you put some clean oil through it before trying to turn it?