Brad-ManQ45

The washer motor is switched - not constant...run it to the positive battery terminal.

Looks like Advanced Auto has an option to ship from factory on rebuilds - 2 sizes...

Didn't show that yesterday...sorry

ATI has an adapter kit for GM automatic transmissions: https://www.atiracing.com/products/adapterk/akit.htm I bought the kit and a high stall 9" lock up converter from them for my '83 Turbo...

I specifically looked for your model and year...

AutoZone has replacement brake boosters...

Since there is no such thing as a 1972 280ZX you will not get any help... Start a thread with the proper identification of your car.

And will last longer - they don't erode like the non-cast impellers.

I kinda hate bringing threads back from the dead, but I would like to provide a more reasoned answer to Hugh's post... If you are on the road not shifting out of gear and are in boost, slow down for a situation an then speed up, recirculating the bow-off will have the turbocharger providing air faster. If you are accelerating through the gears at anything less than maximum boost, recirculating will provide a bit more kick during an upshift. I see no disadvantage to either - only positives. Without recirculation provides only negatives. As far as open a bit during idle, manufacturers use this to provide more air immediately upon throttle tip-in for better response. Just sayin'...

I have a Taurus 120 amp Taurus alternator on my L28 that the local generator shop put in when my original crapped out. Since the only diff. is # of cylinders that should work.

Sorry to bring this back, but the reason automatic cars got oil coolers and manuals didn't was because of the higher load on the radiator because of the automatic transmission cooler. They simply wanted more engine cooling.

As stated, would like to obtain one - if anyone has switched to V8.

Looking to have my P90 head ported - 6 angle intake 3angle exhaust, bowl and guide work, bronze guides cut down, intake ports straighted/widened near manifold. It would be ideal if I could find the guru from Sunbelt as I live in the Atlanta area. Any recommendations?

Cylinder pressure will be no higher than any other engine with 10:1 compression ratio. Port velocities will be higher than with stock stroke and max rpm will be lower with same heads and cam. You will have more power under the curve but max rpm lower because of port cam limitations due to larger displacement. No reason to think timing would be unduly affected.

Their wording is wrong. It should say at low throttle openings there is more pedal travel compared to throttle opening to avoid massive gulps of air at lower speeds.

I'd much rather hear that both valves are closed than lobes in the up position implying both valves open at the same time...

They look exactly like Zedd Findings product only more expensive... Zedd makes great product.

Sequential COP. I can get the Chrysler part and machine it cheaper than that billet cap...

R&R shaft and still have to machine the slot vs simply measuring and removing ~ 50% of shaft end...

Duffy - I'm only talking about the machining to use the turbo distributor drive shaft...

I know I have to use a CAS with this, but I am taking about what is needed to use the jeep unit for the sync signal.

Somewhat sorry for redirecting this thread, but it looks like if you have a turbo engine all you need to do instead of slotting is remove the appropriate amount off one side to drive the CAS... Correct me if I'm wrong... I have my original ZXT distributo, shaft and DIYAutotune wheel for the turbo distributor and intend to go sequential and this seems to be the low buck way to get rid of the distributor.

I pulled the trigger on one of these taking advantage of their Black Friday sale and just received it. Very well packed in professionally designed /shaped foam and looks like a work of art.

It is cast steel - not cast iron. Many have welded Eastgate provisions with not problems...

Take some pics and post for best advice - no one is making patch panels for these any more. I have a MIG welder and custom grabbed half a firewall and inner fender panel and battery tray for my ZX after a battery exploded starting the car in winter and rusted... bought a bead roller to duplicate the panels exactly... Should be fairly easy to weld patches in... Alternatively, Showcar Body Parts in Ontario shows new and used fenders on their website but I seem to remember some cautions about them...