Brad-ManQ45

I built the one MikeKZ has the link to. I used 1/4" tube for where the 11 guage tubing was spec'ed because I'm paranoid and also wanted one for a bigger car later. I also fabbed a jack platform for each end to utilize bottle jacks to raise the car. I believe I have posted a thread on this. I guess I should load some pics onto the site for people too see - they appear to have gotten deleted in the past...

I built my rotiserrie with provision to use two bottle jacks to lift the car off my jackstands. All's it took was some 1/4" plate andan extra 20" of tubing. Made platforms for the bottle jacks to sit on and used gussets underneath these and on each side of pivot to keep jack from sliding off.

The small journal blocks were all 2 bolt. The Z-28 blocks were large journal 4 bolt.

Lack of low end torque? For a given displacement and horsepower @ the same rpm, the smaller # of cylinders will have more low end torque. Whay do you think that Mistubishi (and Porsche - who licensed the balance shaft technology from Mistubishi) utilized 2.6 and 3 litre engines? Do you think Porsche would do this if a 6 cylinder was better? (remember that no other cars utilized the engine in the 944/968's) I had a Conquest w/HKS intercooler and later a Starion ESIR and they were all ABOUT low end - even before the turbo kicked in. They both would stomp my '83 ZXT (intercooled). Same amount of boost. Off Idle to just shy of boost - no contest - they'd just SQUIRT through traffic. Remember too - the Mitsu's had THROTTLE BODY INJECTION - not the individual port injection of the ZXT. Of course the lousy MCA Ject heads are prone to cracking...

What Tim said...

Spork's right - make sure it is a MIG welder - not just a flux core. Also, as you don't have much experience, I would recommend usung Harris Twenty Guage wire. This is witr that is not solid, but has powder in the core designed for use with gas. It's real hard to burn through with this stuff if you are stiching like has vbeen recommended. It costs, but the time and metal you save...

You could also get some dry ice and cool it down, then use a scaler attachment on your air chisel - HF has 'em for ~$15. A lot less messy, flammable and stinky...

What a Bummer!

If you want a 4-speed the Super T-10 is the way to go...

All information that I have is that only the 2nd gen Q's had R230's in them - the 1st gen had R200's. The 3'rd gens have R200 OPEN diffs in them. That said, since I will be turboing a V8, I will get an Armada R230 w/2.98 gears in it...

V6 engines don't last nearly as long as the L6, and parts are expensive...

Oil pressure sensot - been there done that on my '83ZXT... Water pump - mine took out the fan when it went... AFM to turbo boot - replaced when it failed - the people that put the T3/T4 in LEFT THE SPRING OUT that keeps it from collapsing. Found another one and cut it to fit, along with removing, cutting the spring and getting it back in - NOT FUN! Other than that - 176K miles and still goin' strong. (Did replace alternator w/a 130 amp Taurus unit, and have changed Digital to analog dash, and on general principles converted to manual HVAC)...

At step nine - if there are any firrearms in the house 0 HEAD FOR THE DOOR!

What year Q diffs do you have Mike?

In a word, yeah. go to http://www.millerwelds.com or http://www.hobartwelders.com

SEARCH Dude...

Go w/the G-force's...235 too wide for rims - 225 is too but not as bad.

Armada has R230...

The ZX has a 19.8 gal. tank. The use of a rear subframe adds weight, and helps isolate road vibrations. Yes they had softer springs - remember that word 'gentrification'. My '83 has a curb weight of 2872 - no gas or driver.

The ZX got 'improved by gentrification' - a subframe in the rear to isolate noise, more sound deadening, power windows and steering. Body-wise they are better aerodynamically. They weigh more.

The Armada has either a 3.36 or 2.98...

I could use the hood - I'm in Marietta...Come to think of it, I could use the fender that WigenOut - S30 doesn't want/need.... When would be good for You?

I personally would not go the TO4B route - go w/ the TO4E w/ a 1/2 spacer to keep the compressor away from the manifold. MUCH more efficient. The prices for the xtra seem kewl. See what the TO4E would run.... I woould also have the wastegate opening ported and have the larges 'flapper' put in it.

Part of the problem w/the T5 may be the lack of overtravel syop in the shifter. Whatever you do with a T5-get a good shifter (the one for the Mustang works). When I finally get around to my ground-up on my ZXT (after I build the '75 V8), I'll definitely be looking at all the strong parts...

Please pay attention to everyone who has told you not get a cheap welder! Even pro's have a hard time welding with them. Don't even TRY to weld body panels with flux core - too hot and you'll burn through. I myself have a Millermatic 175 that I love. Used it to build a rotisserie, now am waiting to get the misses in a good mood to get the car up on it to replace floor pans and put in subchassis connectors. I made such a mess cutting and drilling when I built the rotisserie - even though I cleaned up daily she didn't like my tracking the dust sround with me - that I am having a hard time convincing her that this is a much cleaner proposition. Oh well, XMAS is here and bribing and grovelling will be in order....