Brad-ManQ45

Don't drill holes! the less holes in your car the better. Take the time to beat it back into shape. If you have a welder it would be ok to drill, but I always like the least invasive way of fixing something, even though it may take longer. When there is a right way and a wrong way of doing something, usually the right way takes longer. Words to live by.

THere are already a few threads here and on zcar.com in the tech forums about this, but basically you have to fab your own brackets. MSA sells fiberglass bumpers at a pretty good price.

I know the feeling - like the night before I went to purchase my first motorcycle (Yamaha RD 350 in '75). Every other big purchase after that was no big thing, with the possible exception of the two houses... The reason I went ahead and bought a MIG welder was so I could do the exhaust without having to tow it anywhere, as well as put in floorboards, subframe connectors and body panels.

I haven't seen a definitive drop-in in this range except for the bosch 0 280 150 041 for MB 6.91 - which no-one seems to know anything about getting. Are there any other injectors in this range that require at most an oriing replacement where they fit in the head? Low impedance,of course...

Very nice job! You can and should be proud of it. Apart from roll cage and color, I will be doing the same to my '75.

They are either lazy or stupid or both.

I am very fond of my 3" ultraflow oval muffler - straight thru.

Establish a relationship with a few local junkyards.

Fear is the great tamer of sheeple. I disagree with the statement that a chemical attack would be beyond the capabilities of the terrorists. A very effective gas is simply made by combining ammonia and chlorine. Pretty much like mustard gas.

I lioke the TMC springs on my '75...

Hydraulic cams generally have a gentler ramp starting off the base circle. 110 lobe centers does not for a good turbo cam make - I'd want at least 112 and preferably 114 degree centers. 110 is just too much overlap if you have any lift at all with a hydraulic....

You have an R200.

I use acetone. On mild stell, before the acetone I wipe it with OSPHO.

I may be wrong here (have been before and will be again), but: It seems to me that if you were at 10:1 at full throttle, that you need to adjust your settings 10% LEANER, rather than richer. I started reading all the MS threads because I'm about to get a V3 MS board and MSns_Extra setup and harness from Rodney, and I'll admit that it is as bit overwhelming to start with. If I am wrong, please show me the error of my ways so that I can adjust my thinking and go back and reread the pertinant basics again.

I will be installing mine with the car sideways on the rotisserie.

Pete: I think that 4 Barrel carbs are (flow) rated at 1.5" Hg, and 2 barrel carbs at 3" Hg....

If you do a search, you will find that a great deal has been said by RacerX about Zero Rust. He has switched to that for all personal and most custom work - except where customer insists on POR-15. This stuff is great for inside and underneath the car - I would use a good epoxy primer on exterior/underhood. No matter what you use, treat the metal with PickleX before either type of primer and you won't have problems, as long as you get off the major rust first.

you could have the turbine cut down to fit the housing, but that process could cost as much as getting a hybrid to begin with once you factor in the cost of the complete T4. Why bother? A TO4E with stage 3 aor 5 turbine and .63 - or even .82 housing if you want BIG numbers and only drag race, will be more than adequate.

To wel aluminum on the Miller or Hobart all you really need is a teflon lined liner. Just as with the Lincoln, you have to keep the liner from the MIG unit to gun straight for the aluminum wire...

Greenmonster80 - where did you get the custom exhaust manifold?

Dr_Hunt: I used to live on Eubank Blvd in Albuquerque in '85...

For sheet metal, you might want to look at JW HArris TwentyGuage - it is a powder-core wire .030 in diameter that you use with gas and will help in not burning through. The nice thing about the Hobarts is that they go down to 25 amps, not just the 30 thhat the small Millers go down to. With the TwentyGuage, you shouldn't have a problem with either machine - or the small Lincoln's either, and the Lincoln goes down to 25 amps also.

I have a 19" long UltaFlow oval muffler, 3" straight-thru, that I LOVE on my '83 ZXT. Had a FM on before and hated it...

I personally made my choice of the Miller 175 before I even took welding classes - I actually got it while I was in class (mail order). I did my due diligence, and while I learned on Lincoln, I love my Miller. One of my main reasons for going with Miller is their customer service (Hobarts' too!). All you have to do is look at who sponsors web forums for welders to see who puts a premium on their customers. I read almost every message regarding MIG on the Hobart site (even the OLD site) when I made the decision to get one for restoring my '75 280Z. That was 4 years ago, and I took my classes 3 years ago, then got too busy being taken advantage of on my old job to do much. I welded a rotisserie for the car so I could put in new floor pans and subframe connectors without overhead welding, as well as to make life easy in completely stripping off old undercoating. I have built a sand blast cabinet 4'X2'X2'. and all my neighbors come by to have me fix stuff onced they saw the rotisserie. I have had a blast cutting and welding metal, and can only caution you to not get a cheap welder. Buy a good one, use it, then if you no longer need it, you can sell it and have more money than doing the same with one of the cheap ones. You will also find that even pro's can have problems with the cheap ones, amateurs have even more! I'm gonna keep mine, but htat's because it will have paid for itself in savings over having someone else do it (that includes cost of the lessons at the Vo-Tech) before I'm even finished. I'll sell the rotisserie before I sell the welder (but only after I'mm done with it!)

Not just ignition, gas cap and hatch lock too. I replaced a gas cap once (wife left it and couldn't find it when I went back), thern when my ignition switch started ggiving me problems, I had all the locks changed. About $500 total. I'd call a good auto locksmith, or as Warren for advice in a PM....