Brad-ManQ45

I guess I'll post Warrens' story for him: He made arrangements to purchase a 280ZXT in the Pacific Northwest. It had checked out as a creampuff, so he flew in to pick it up from Atlanta, GA and the idiot totalled it right in front of him at the airport coming to deliver it! Now I'm not sure about the totalled part, but he definitely couldn't drive it back to GA, and the whole front end was smashed - the idiot was showing off and couldn't stop fast enough and rear-ended the car in front of him. Then the idiot asks if he still wants the car at a discount price! He had to staqy the night and get another one-way ticket back the next day at full price.

My Garage Not much, have to let the better half use one side for the Q (mine but I let her drive it) at night.

Rather than powder coating or POR-15, try using Zero Rust. The thing I don't like about powder coating is that if it chips, it looks bad and rusts. POR-15 has had it's share of detractors, and our own RacerX (professional painter) has stopped using it except where the customer is adamant. He has switched to Zero Rust and loves it. It is single part, but tough. No Iso's like POR-15.

Actually, I have heard that the vette's get a fifth plate or planetary assembly...something like that.

Don't drill holes! the less holes in your car the better. Take the time to beat it back into shape. If you have a welder it would be ok to drill, but I always like the least invasive way of fixing something, even though it may take longer. When there is a right way and a wrong way of doing something, usually the right way takes longer. Words to live by.

THere are already a few threads here and on zcar.com in the tech forums about this, but basically you have to fab your own brackets. MSA sells fiberglass bumpers at a pretty good price.

I know the feeling - like the night before I went to purchase my first motorcycle (Yamaha RD 350 in '75). Every other big purchase after that was no big thing, with the possible exception of the two houses... The reason I went ahead and bought a MIG welder was so I could do the exhaust without having to tow it anywhere, as well as put in floorboards, subframe connectors and body panels.

I haven't seen a definitive drop-in in this range except for the bosch 0 280 150 041 for MB 6.91 - which no-one seems to know anything about getting. Are there any other injectors in this range that require at most an oriing replacement where they fit in the head? Low impedance,of course...

Very nice job! You can and should be proud of it. Apart from roll cage and color, I will be doing the same to my '75.

They are either lazy or stupid or both.

I am very fond of my 3" ultraflow oval muffler - straight thru.

Establish a relationship with a few local junkyards.

Fear is the great tamer of sheeple. I disagree with the statement that a chemical attack would be beyond the capabilities of the terrorists. A very effective gas is simply made by combining ammonia and chlorine. Pretty much like mustard gas.

I lioke the TMC springs on my '75...

Hydraulic cams generally have a gentler ramp starting off the base circle. 110 lobe centers does not for a good turbo cam make - I'd want at least 112 and preferably 114 degree centers. 110 is just too much overlap if you have any lift at all with a hydraulic....

You have an R200.

I use acetone. On mild stell, before the acetone I wipe it with OSPHO.

I may be wrong here (have been before and will be again), but: It seems to me that if you were at 10:1 at full throttle, that you need to adjust your settings 10% LEANER, rather than richer. I started reading all the MS threads because I'm about to get a V3 MS board and MSns_Extra setup and harness from Rodney, and I'll admit that it is as bit overwhelming to start with. If I am wrong, please show me the error of my ways so that I can adjust my thinking and go back and reread the pertinant basics again.

I will be installing mine with the car sideways on the rotisserie.

Pete: I think that 4 Barrel carbs are (flow) rated at 1.5" Hg, and 2 barrel carbs at 3" Hg....

If you do a search, you will find that a great deal has been said by RacerX about Zero Rust. He has switched to that for all personal and most custom work - except where customer insists on POR-15. This stuff is great for inside and underneath the car - I would use a good epoxy primer on exterior/underhood. No matter what you use, treat the metal with PickleX before either type of primer and you won't have problems, as long as you get off the major rust first.

you could have the turbine cut down to fit the housing, but that process could cost as much as getting a hybrid to begin with once you factor in the cost of the complete T4. Why bother? A TO4E with stage 3 aor 5 turbine and .63 - or even .82 housing if you want BIG numbers and only drag race, will be more than adequate.

To wel aluminum on the Miller or Hobart all you really need is a teflon lined liner. Just as with the Lincoln, you have to keep the liner from the MIG unit to gun straight for the aluminum wire...

Greenmonster80 - where did you get the custom exhaust manifold?