Brad-ManQ45

Pete: Hoping all goes well - hate for you to miss a convention...

For rusted bolts/nuts, nothing I've tried works better than Kroil. Phosphric acid is not a rust remover, it is a rust converter - used to get the microscopic rust in pits after visible rust has been sanded/ground away. Several products on the market contain phosphoric acid - OSPHO can be found at NAPA stores and paint stores, PickleX (formerly Rust Mort) goes a step further than OSPHO does - if the car is in a shop, you sand/get rid of all surface rust and treat the surface, it can be left alone until time to spray. With OSPHO, you basically want to treat it, let it dry, then prime. Navel Jelly is a common rust REMOVER, but you must make sure that you rinse thoroughly or you have problems painting over it. Even if using a rust remover, use a phosphoric acid treatment on the metal before priming.

It is my understanding that only in drifting events does the VLSD overheat and go "open".

oops! - I misread....

The R230 from a TT ZX has a 3.90. The R200 from the NA 300 ZX (90 - 9?) has a 4.11, same as a 240SX R230.

I just got in my LC-1. Waiting to get my MS V3 built.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71356&highlight=halfshaft A simple search for halfshat answers your question - like the 10th post in the search, I narrowed it down for you. THe answer is, if they are both the same differential, yes.

Bummer, dude. I have really appreciated your posts regarding MS. In fact, you are probably the biggest reason I am in the process of obtaining the parts to go MSnS_E with wideband. Hope this doesn't mean we won't be hearing from you.

Dude, I don't think you'd have much of a driveshaft left....if any...

Quite a few of us have 280ZX's, I have an '83ZXT and a '75 that is in the beginnings of full resto+TT V8 conversion. Ross corrigan had a ZX w/V8 until stolen, so he could be a wealth of knowledge. Do some searches, then ask away. Plenty of people here that like to help and even more that like to learn and discuss. This is the one forum that I get withdrawal symptoms from!

Look up Traction Master Corp. They have springs and bars for Z's. I have them on my '75 - they were much less expensive than MSA or ST pricing - I think I got two bars for ~$179. Springs were ~$150. They are known for Mustang stuff, but carry stuff for Z's and 510's too.

slownrusty: Why don't you tell us how you really feel?

Looking at that, I'm glad I built my rotisserie. If you can avoid vertical welding, life is so much easier. With the rotisserie, I can horizontal weld to my jeart's copntent, all I have to do is set up platforms to be sure I can reach everything. Besides, with the rotisserie on wheels, I can move the car around for sandblasting and welding wherever I want. Forget the hours spent driling and welding, but the ~ $240 in metal was worth it. (Pre-2004 price). I have pics and a thread or two about the rotisserie on this site, if anyone cares...

Don't get me wrong about powder coating - for the caliper, which are unlikely to get beat by road debris, I asay go for it, but for general suspension stuff, I'd rather just paint something that can be touched up if chipped. As for Zero rust being flat, you can always top coat it with their clear...

Let's see, they're both high maintenance, but you can always shut off the Ferrari - I choose the Ferrari. Ferrari wins the ear candy factor. Eye candy-wise, tough choice - but I'm sure parts of her were fake. Overall, Ferrari wins. If I had the money to buy, own and maintain that Ferrari, I could buy all the eye candy I wanted. Remember the 3-F rule. If it Flys, Floats or F*%ks - RENT IT! That said, I've been married for 15 years (2nd time) and forgot the 3-F rule in a moment of weakness, which I haven't regretted.

I guess I'll post Warrens' story for him: He made arrangements to purchase a 280ZXT in the Pacific Northwest. It had checked out as a creampuff, so he flew in to pick it up from Atlanta, GA and the idiot totalled it right in front of him at the airport coming to deliver it! Now I'm not sure about the totalled part, but he definitely couldn't drive it back to GA, and the whole front end was smashed - the idiot was showing off and couldn't stop fast enough and rear-ended the car in front of him. Then the idiot asks if he still wants the car at a discount price! He had to staqy the night and get another one-way ticket back the next day at full price.

My Garage Not much, have to let the better half use one side for the Q (mine but I let her drive it) at night.

Rather than powder coating or POR-15, try using Zero Rust. The thing I don't like about powder coating is that if it chips, it looks bad and rusts. POR-15 has had it's share of detractors, and our own RacerX (professional painter) has stopped using it except where the customer is adamant. He has switched to Zero Rust and loves it. It is single part, but tough. No Iso's like POR-15.

Actually, I have heard that the vette's get a fifth plate or planetary assembly...something like that.

Don't drill holes! the less holes in your car the better. Take the time to beat it back into shape. If you have a welder it would be ok to drill, but I always like the least invasive way of fixing something, even though it may take longer. When there is a right way and a wrong way of doing something, usually the right way takes longer. Words to live by.

THere are already a few threads here and on zcar.com in the tech forums about this, but basically you have to fab your own brackets. MSA sells fiberglass bumpers at a pretty good price.

I know the feeling - like the night before I went to purchase my first motorcycle (Yamaha RD 350 in '75). Every other big purchase after that was no big thing, with the possible exception of the two houses... The reason I went ahead and bought a MIG welder was so I could do the exhaust without having to tow it anywhere, as well as put in floorboards, subframe connectors and body panels.

I haven't seen a definitive drop-in in this range except for the bosch 0 280 150 041 for MB 6.91 - which no-one seems to know anything about getting. Are there any other injectors in this range that require at most an oriing replacement where they fit in the head? Low impedance,of course...

Very nice job! You can and should be proud of it. Apart from roll cage and color, I will be doing the same to my '75.