Brad-ManQ45

Can't believe Austin, TX doesn't have a machine shop that can dunk an engine block....

REgular mild steel plate will do - If JTR style, go with the thickness they use.

I'm not familiar with what you are running, so I'll take a couple of wild stabs. Rear gear ratio too "stiff", ie: 3.90 or 4.10 - turbos like load, and if you don't have any, won't spool 'till later. Small diameter tires will act like this too. Bigger turbo - esp. turbine side, which can really slow down response. What type of turbo are you running?

I personally believe a slight panty line aids in evaluating overall shape, but more importantly the woman's ability to choose panties that fit/blend well to their derriere. Seeing a slight line also lets me know that they are a bit softer and cuddlier than the aerobics fanatics. Yes, I am a male chauvinist pig... This coming from a man who loves his wife very much for saying, and I quote: "If a man doesn't look, he's of no use to me" after being questioned by other wives at a party when all of us (guys) were in a group talking and noticed a bodacious young thing come through the door. I will admit that my glance was casual, and my tongue didn't hit the floor like a few of the husbands, but the act was noticed and commented upon. She never has given me any crap about that kind of stuff - a keeper!

I believe there is some debate about the 2nd Gen Q's having R230's. It might make sense - they quit making ZXTT's and had the R230's available, but I honestly don't know. I do know I intensely dislike the looks of the 2nd Gen Q compared to the 1st Gens. and haven't really liked the 3rd Gens either. Something really classic about the 1st Gen - almost Jaguarish....

My vote will reflect your answer to the following question: Are you talking about a simple insignificant LINE, or does it include actual CREASES which might also indicate panties used as more of a FOUNDATION garment, where a GIRDLE would be a better choice? (I am definitely against the latter in case you were wondering).

Can't be an R230 in 1st gen Q...

Too True Grumpyvette... I'm 51 and think through and research before doing anything, always have (not that I haven't made mistakes - like the time I tightened down the baseplate of the carb on my 351CJ Mustang without having the bolts for the auto choke for the fitting on the manifold all the way down, breaking off the automatic choke part of the baseplate - that was the worst one - no choke until I put on a Torker and Holley 700 DP). Now that I'm wiser I still am trying to figure out why I'm still doing this stuff! The aches and pains from out of position work, the wife's complaints about the car in the garage, and the one on the extra parking pad. The ceaseless search for knowledge to incorporate into the car. But then I remember the first time I cranked up my first engine rebuild, the first time I had my bodywork painted, the $ I've saved just KNOWING how to fix something and either doing it myself, or not getting ripped off by people I have taken my cars to to do the work I didn't have time for. Bust most of all, the process of learning, talking and meeting with people who have gasoline running in their veins.

Nope, not Mike's vette - his is better looking (color). Nitrous is one of the best ways to make sure that Murphy's Law will come home to roost with you. I'd rather turbocharge...and have it all the time.

Almost any 2 stage compressor will work for what you want to do. HVLP uses less air than regular guns, but some can be hogs. Nevertheless, nay good compressor that you get should handle any HVLP setup with no problem - the HV par is volume of air, the LP is the pressure requirement - it's low, and a big tank can hold a lot of air at 124 or more PSI. So don't worry and get a good deal. I like JohnC's suggestion, and if I ever buy another compressor, will go this route.

Pete: Hoping all goes well - hate for you to miss a convention...

For rusted bolts/nuts, nothing I've tried works better than Kroil. Phosphric acid is not a rust remover, it is a rust converter - used to get the microscopic rust in pits after visible rust has been sanded/ground away. Several products on the market contain phosphoric acid - OSPHO can be found at NAPA stores and paint stores, PickleX (formerly Rust Mort) goes a step further than OSPHO does - if the car is in a shop, you sand/get rid of all surface rust and treat the surface, it can be left alone until time to spray. With OSPHO, you basically want to treat it, let it dry, then prime. Navel Jelly is a common rust REMOVER, but you must make sure that you rinse thoroughly or you have problems painting over it. Even if using a rust remover, use a phosphoric acid treatment on the metal before priming.

It is my understanding that only in drifting events does the VLSD overheat and go "open".

oops! - I misread....

The R230 from a TT ZX has a 3.90. The R200 from the NA 300 ZX (90 - 9?) has a 4.11, same as a 240SX R230.

I just got in my LC-1. Waiting to get my MS V3 built.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71356&highlight=halfshaft A simple search for halfshat answers your question - like the 10th post in the search, I narrowed it down for you. THe answer is, if they are both the same differential, yes.

Bummer, dude. I have really appreciated your posts regarding MS. In fact, you are probably the biggest reason I am in the process of obtaining the parts to go MSnS_E with wideband. Hope this doesn't mean we won't be hearing from you.

Dude, I don't think you'd have much of a driveshaft left....if any...

Quite a few of us have 280ZX's, I have an '83ZXT and a '75 that is in the beginnings of full resto+TT V8 conversion. Ross corrigan had a ZX w/V8 until stolen, so he could be a wealth of knowledge. Do some searches, then ask away. Plenty of people here that like to help and even more that like to learn and discuss. This is the one forum that I get withdrawal symptoms from!

Look up Traction Master Corp. They have springs and bars for Z's. I have them on my '75 - they were much less expensive than MSA or ST pricing - I think I got two bars for ~$179. Springs were ~$150. They are known for Mustang stuff, but carry stuff for Z's and 510's too.

slownrusty: Why don't you tell us how you really feel?

Looking at that, I'm glad I built my rotisserie. If you can avoid vertical welding, life is so much easier. With the rotisserie, I can horizontal weld to my jeart's copntent, all I have to do is set up platforms to be sure I can reach everything. Besides, with the rotisserie on wheels, I can move the car around for sandblasting and welding wherever I want. Forget the hours spent driling and welding, but the ~ $240 in metal was worth it. (Pre-2004 price). I have pics and a thread or two about the rotisserie on this site, if anyone cares...

Don't get me wrong about powder coating - for the caliper, which are unlikely to get beat by road debris, I asay go for it, but for general suspension stuff, I'd rather just paint something that can be touched up if chipped. As for Zero rust being flat, you can always top coat it with their clear...

Let's see, they're both high maintenance, but you can always shut off the Ferrari - I choose the Ferrari. Ferrari wins the ear candy factor. Eye candy-wise, tough choice - but I'm sure parts of her were fake. Overall, Ferrari wins. If I had the money to buy, own and maintain that Ferrari, I could buy all the eye candy I wanted. Remember the 3-F rule. If it Flys, Floats or F*%ks - RENT IT! That said, I've been married for 15 years (2nd time) and forgot the 3-F rule in a moment of weakness, which I haven't regretted.