Brad-ManQ45

Why even rebuild a L28ET, get a couple of engines and worry about rebuilding when you're on the second. Plenty of people putting out 240+ hp with JY engines. I'd get two, and MegaSquirt and intercool it with exhaust and be way ahead of your $5000 budget.

Good news, thanks Warren.

Mario: Could you please keep us appraised about that GNose in your area - what kinds of problem, workmanship, etc?

Watch out - his is a better flowing and "cooler" turbo. The added heat from a stock T3 at higher boost may make a difference as far as timing goes...but probably just need a little more fuel.

I've been thinking of getting an SKS, I already have a Swiss K-31 and several pistols - CZ-52 and Bulgie Makarov. I also have 3 Ruger handguns, a Smith & Wesson semi-auto shotgun, and 2 EAA Witness Full Size Pistols - .45 and 10mm. Forgot about a Beretta .32ACP... I'm lucky - I have a friend that has a Pawn FFL, so things I can't have shipped directly to me via my C&R license can go to him - of course, I also don't have to pay the background check fee, because I have a carry permit.

That will be great.

Good Show!~ Hope to see you @SEZ6.

Yeah, I'm trying to find a big NPR right now - haven't been any on ebay...

I'll state it a different way, all MS does w/EDIS is send it a signal, and EDIS controls the ignition events, including dwell. By using a couple more chips, MS V3 with either MSnS_E or MSII can fully control all aspects of ignition.

Yes, EDIS is wasted spark, but ms doesn't control it. Using a couple more ignitors MS can directly control all facets of ignition....

I'll be interested in this one too... Although I don't see where you would really gain - the EDIS will control the (dwell)spark, not MS. A better idea may be a waste spark system with V3. I THINK all we need to do is put in a couple more VB921's and use a couple more outputs. I'd be interested to know if my understanding is correct.

I'm bumping this in the hope that some more experienced turbo hybrids kick in some opinions...

My brother and I did a ground-up on a '66 short windshield, put 2000 crank and pistons in the engine, a 5-speed, 4.11 LSD.... It was great once we got it on the road, until some dumb biatch hydroplaned into the rear of it in her Nova.

He does have an appropriate username...

I've been through the whole site, but paid attention especially to their evaluation of core types and tank shapes and configuration. According to these guys, the Spearco Type with inlet & outlet on same side is using the 1st 25% of the core (next to the inlet and outlet) for the majority of cooling. Their observations on core types are rather interesting.... ARE Intercoolers Thrown out for comments and opinions.

1st - one should always be concerned with detonation, and avoid it at all costs. That said, I agree that 12.5 - 12.7 is where you whould be under boost, not 10.5 - you're losing HP and gas. You can also lose HP if timing is not right, as well as mileage. I am about to go MSNS_E,and will be using a knock sensor when tuning, and edge up on the right settings. If you check out the MSEFI forum, you can see a vendor that can supply something that will interface with MS and datalog. It costs ~$60 dollars, anhd I believe it will be money well spent.

I think he meant creeping turbo...

With v3.0 you don't need HEI - it drives the coil directly. Sensots can remain stock, and use EasyTherm. Don't necessarily need a relay board, since you already have a fuel injected car that has the relays, but it does make wiring simpler.

Congratulations

That one (Bel-Aire) is highly touted by the autobodyshop forum. Go for it!

On Nissan-USA site, shows both 2wd and 4wd as limitied slip standard on the Armada.

V3 board has driver for coil - don't need HEI module. or those of us wanting to do things in stages, can come back later and do EDIS. Also has FIDLE output. Also, has provision to support LowZ injectors - no flyback board needed. This what I am going to.

I don't necessarily agree that bigger is always better. You have to take into account boost lag somewhere in the equation. A road racer certainly would want a rather large intercooler for the same amount of horsepower from its' engine than a typical steet-racer, concerned with stoplite to stoplite action, because he is continually making demands on the coolin/heatsink capabilities of the intercooler, and for longer periods of time. In a short burst situation, a smaller, very efficient intercooler can give all the performace/cooling needed, and have better boost response because there is less volume to pressurize. One must be realistic in determining what the application will be in order to come up with the right "package" for the car.

you spelled it right bastaad525. I agree on the 15:1, although this would tend to keep exhaust temps higher (quicker spool?) Ther may be a negative factor that I am not accounting for here. This thread pretty much re-emphasises the need for the "package" approch to gearing and engine mods that has been hashed and rehashed in other threads, particularly when turbos are involved. I still maintain that a lower numerical rear gear is better for turbo cars.

I guess we have an answer then. 3.90 rear gear. Tires should make up a little of the difference, but not much. Remember that the stock ZXT's had 3.54 rear gears, even the 5 speed manuals - they like load. Try short-shifting from 1st to 2nd and see if boost builds quicker for you. (take it up to ~3500, then shift to second). If boost hits better (in 2nd) than winding it (in 1st then shifting to 2nd), then you know that your rear gear is the culprit, which is what it sounds like to me - at least for the way you want to drive the car. If so, you might want to consider a rear ratio change.