Brad-ManQ45

I'm not a fan of the ytont emd either, but I DO like the proportions and size og yhe new one compared to the C5. My personal favorite though was the looks of the '73 convertible.

Au contraire - the Caddy engine would fit quite nicely - not much bigger than the 350...

You will need it for the heater too...

200R4 has the advantage of lower numerically speaking 1st gear that the TH400 and 4L80e have - when you/ve got a lot of torque and a light car, it helps...

I used the oners from MSA - polyurethane w/integral bump stops.

.93 5th gear? What rear axle you runnin'?

Basically, the TH350 and 700R4/4L60/4L60E share the same 1st 3 gear ratios, with the later having overdrive and sharing the same clutch packs for 1st and 2nd gear... The TH400 and 4L80E share the same gears with the later having an overdrive. Separate clutch pack for each gear, which is why it stands up to torque longer.

Need analog cluster, wiring harness, temp sender, defrost switch for guages. Got manual parts from Z-Barn for A/C...

'97 to new model Q had R230's

Personally, I lijed Arnold's observation: 'If you think you can spend you money better than the government, you're a Republican.' (This may be paraphrased but is very close) I do not like the Democrats 'endowment philosophy' used yo buy the votes of the un and under educated.

Don't forget that Modern Motorsports also has the VENTED 4X4 setup that allows you to keep your stock hubs - all the advantages of better caliper AND Vented Disc for a lot less than that $1000.

no problem

I will agree with everyone who said get it out of the engine compartment. I would also like to add that the shorter the tubing between the filter and the turbo the less chance for air to pick up heat. As far as being in front of the intercooler, I don't see that as much of a problem, because for the most part, on the street, the intercooler is like a heat sink for the air passing through it, when you are off boost it will cool down again, and we just aren't on boost that long for the small amount of blockage that a filter causes to be a big issue. JMHO, but if someone has empirical evidence contrary to this, I would like to be enlightened.

What heads you gonna run Moby?

Much easier to polish off car - quicker too.

At 7 PSI probably 220-250 and around 300-325 @ 15 PSI

#1 is easy - boost is lower in lower gears because there isn't as much load. #2 I'm not sure of...

Had a brand new '75 Yamaha RD350 for 40 days and 4400 miles 'til a Lincoln Town car ran a light WAY LATE - off duty cop on a Kawasaki 400 said - no way to see him coming (popped over a hill), and thought I couldn't get out alive. No more bikes...

I would think that 18 psi w/stock turbo would be the limit - is not lower - the HEAT being created at that point is phenomenol. Do some searches - someone is in the 12's on the stock turbo - see what he maxes at. Anything less than 65% efficiency is asking for trouble. If you were tolimit your RPMs to ~4000 with 20 lbs boost you'd be okay, but above tay yo would reach TPODR. Heck, you would have to chabge injectors before you can max out the stock turbo (providig you have an intercooler). I run 10 and sometimes spike to 15 Psi with a T3/T4 S trim compessor and clipped turbine with stock injectors - no intercooler, no ping. If I want more out of it, I'll have to go MS or SDS and bigger injectors asnd an intercooler first - then change the turbo.

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/

The lower the efficiency the greater the HEAT associated with the air being supplied. Looking at the maps will let you see and select the appropriate turbo compressor section for your needs by maximizing the efficiency opf the turbo in as many areas of operation (rpm/boost) as possible. I sent you to that page because I wanted to make sure you had a good foundation for the rest.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/index.html

The Holley 780 #3310 is a vacuum secondary carb. What rear gears and trans will you be running? Based on your engine build you won't have a 3.7 or higher numerical rear gear... If you were going to use a manual trans then I MIGHT suggest a 700 DP'r...depending on cam specs.

I think I remember that MM has some brackets for the Mustang stuff...

FWIW - I would go with the MM type calipers myself because they have production street type seals on them...I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this...