Brad-ManQ45

Most people will use something like machinists bluing put on, then the gasket in place and use a scribe to outline the gasket opening. There are a few sites out there detailinf TB swaps showing pics of the TB porting to the intake manifold... a search should find 'em.

Can't get'em new any more. I'm gonna start w/an R200 3.54 open, but switch to an R230 w. 3.357 from an Armada...when I have the bucks...

Thanks RacerX!

Wish I had your problem... I'm just now ready to put my '75 on the rotisserie.

Once you have the air measured(AFM or MAS) you should recirculate and not vent...The type/manufacturer of device doesn't matter.

Exhaust gas recirculation. If the vave is sticking open the engine dies at idle - you have to keep the revs up...

Have you blocked off the EGR?

GolDraven - YOFU ARE CRUEL! DON'T EVER DO SOMETHING LIKE THAT AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm hoping my nads recover...

Everyone I've heard talk about it thinks HOK is the BOMB... What color are you gonna paint the chassis? If you can deal with the overspray and higher paint costs, use the gun you've got if you are used to it. Try these two sites for body & paint info: http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index http://autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=044f9164f9248f3d8a8ca730b35c89f4

You could do a search, and you can go to these two sites and read the posts there: http://autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=044f9164f9248f3d8a8ca730b35c89f4 http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

Depends. What do you use the car for. If just drag racing leave it be. For a daily driver/autoX, the advantages of lower/further back translate to better weight distribution (handling/steering effort/less weight on front). Almost everyone doing a conversion on this board goes with JTR, and some have switched to it from Scarab and not looked back...

Nice & tidy Sean!

I have that site on my favorites list, but haven't been there for a good while - excellent! They were suppsedly working on SBC turbo kit when I added it, but it never happened and others did it. Good catch fl327!

Sounds like something that could be programmed into the new UMS due out this summer, but not anything off the shelf right now....

Zero Rust too...RacerX and the AutoBodyStore site swear by it...

Are you referring to the MSR type H4's? I too run Cibies on my 83ZXT - and don't feel a need to replace them. However, I will need to get some lights for the '75 V* project eventually and would like to hear about comparison to Cibies...

C25 will make for less penetration than straight CO2 - which to me means cooler. Don't take my word for ir - go to Hobart's BBB: http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html#mig

AFAIC, flux core and auto sheet metal don't mix - too hot. You really need C25 and .23 or .24 solid core wire.

The delrin/aluminum cup cobined with stock rear bushing is the way I am going. Eventually I'll have to replace the front setup again because it will wear. Some have well over 30K on them so no issue for me... The next best setuo would be poly front and stock rear.

I'm sure it could be made to work, but why bother? SDS would be cheaper and lots of support. MSnS even cheaper and quite a few people running it. 300ZX system about as cheap as MSnS and no programming issues. Any of these alternatives will give better driveability over stock ECU, and eliminate dreaded lean condition starting @ ~5k rpm. With the VPC you're stuck with the lean condition, and poor driveability, plus the $ necessary to pay someone to program the thing. In the end you've got something unique, that no-one else would probably want - and for good reason. JMHO...

I doubt you'd gain much in the way of horsepower. Driveability and gas milage would improve. You would need the CAS wheel inside the 300ZX distributor, six resistors, and swap a couple of injector leads. Your knock senszor will no longer work.

Dont know about price, but JTR will work on any but LS1/6 type engine blocks. How many miles on engine/tranny?

And there are guys that go that fast or faster on motorcycles....

I have an R180 you can have free, but shipping will cost you... I have to take it off my Z and put on an R200... Anything to help a fellow Z'r.

This is actually a ball point pen that my wife brought home about 1 week after I bought the '75 Z - running strong but needs floorpans/paint. I immediately said "that's the color!" and took over the pen - for which I paid with a new Parker! I agree that it has a bit of green and in fact, HOK has a color called Neon Chartreuse, that aside from being too transparent is fairly close. I have always said I was looking for a bright yellow with a tinge of green to it...