Brad-ManQ45

The stock 280ZXT has a fan in front of the condenser, so I would imagine you should have no problem...

I think almost everyone on this board who has put in relays would never go back. the headlights are always brighter, and you reduce the load through the switch, which is a major consideration. I would not use higher wattage bulbs without relays, but then again, I would have the relays put in anyway fo rthe above reason. I already have on my 280ZXT, and will on my '75 V8 project.

Thanks Scottie!

Congratulations! Don't you just love it when everything falls in place?

http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/ubbthreads.php

http://web.ctsolutions.com/zeddfind/ This is where I got mine, and Charlie is a great guy. MSA sells these as their premium Floor Pans. If you are going to do the subchassis connectors, don't bother getting the xtra bracing ($75 I think).

Thanks Grumpyvette! Finally found the information stated in an article due to your link. So that no one elese need look through it all for one piece of info: For Boosted applications, H-beam rods seem to be the way to go, it appears they can be a bit lighter than I-beam and still handle the larger low-rpm compressive loads, or the same weight and handle even more. For high rpm engines, either rod works, but once again, the h-beam will be a bit lighter. Thanks again Grumpyvette! Brad

'97 and up Q's had the 4.1L engine. '96 was the only year for no variable timing on the 4.5. The early engine had the most power, for they messed with the head and intake for emissions purposes later. The '90 is the only year for sodium-filled exhaust valves I believe.

Thanks for the info Grumpyvette... Now for a discourse on H vs. I beam configurations. Pro's Con's, which may be better for RPM's and which may be better for big boost turbocharged cars.... This is a discussion I've been waiting for! Brad

Makes sense. With 177K miles, I just assumed I should be rebuildinf the heads (new valve guides etc.). I guess I'll just bolt everything up and not worry if it blows though my attempts at tuning. Fortunately, HESCO is only ~1.5 hous away - I can always get them to tune it after I get a Nissan reman or do a rebuild...

Starting to think of the next step for the '83 ZXT, and the '75 V* isn't even started yet! If I'm only going for ~400HP, do I need to rebuild what I have (not daily driver), or can I just plu in a factory reman ($1400 from my dealership for a longblock w/'82 head)? Whenever I do this, will be installing intercooler and probably SDS/TEC system and refurbishing engine compartment from wear/tear/battery woes. Since the car isn't a daily driver, no worries on time, will my money be better spent rebuilding what I have w/good pistons/bolts/etc? Thanks, Brad

I'm 5'11 1/2" w/32" inseam. I just fit.

No overdrive on 280 ZXT's. Here is an article about putting the Mitsubishi Starion/Chrysler Conquest AT in the 280ZX... http://www.zcar.com/articles/twheel/4spdauto/

Schweeeeet!

You pretty much only need spacers for the 280zx conversion - no setback plate needed/able to be used. (less distance from firewall to crossmember).

Jeff: I'll take a DP for my ZXT. (Already have 3" exhaust after stock DP - including 3" cat) LOVE your site. Eventually I WILL go to aftermarket ECU... Brad

The speed sensor bolts to the speedometer. Haven't taken out my digital dash yet, but have swapped the sensor from the '82 analog to the '79 analog.

Do not forget that Smokey specifically said to use a Two Gear drive and areverse-rotation camshaft. AIR, he said the three and four gear drives have design deficiencies (in his opinion). That said, I believe I will wait for our resident guru - Grumpyvette - expound on his setup and insights further.....I LOVE gaining knowledge from people recognized (rightfully) as authorities. Brad

If you have the BW T5 5 Speed, you can get the right angle drive adapter from JTR that has a .66:1 reduction ratio and then set the Speedo to KPH and be reasonably close w/stock tires and maybe even spot on w/larger tires. The speedometer cable from the firewall to the speedo is the same on the ZX for analog or digital (I knw because i am converting my '83 from Digital to Analog and my Auto A/C to Manual when the weather warms). Have all the parts and even got the 130MPH speedo from a '79 to replace the 85MPS 82 cluster's speedo. I have already replaced the speed Sensor on the '79 w/the one from the '82. Z Barn supplied all parts for conversion - hey - it's still cheaper than trying to deal w/the A**holes at Z Car Atlanta....and Roger is deifinitely a good guy w/a lot of knowledge. BTW he can get molded carpet kits, not the custom cut stuff....

I too would be interested. Perhaps some Jag HID's? I personally would like to have a removeable airdam/splitter as an option. I personally didn't much care for the 'squared off' look of the grill opening on ShowCars' effort, and thought the air dam a bit overdone.... FWIW - I called MSA and they said they had only one kit and it is missing the hinges - and they wanted full price. I'd pay MSA's price for a GOOD kit from you John.

I have the S-3 Trim compressor and clipped stock turbine in the stock housing. Spools quicker/lower and much better top end...

Plastic/nylon fan same for all z's. Just had to replace mine when pump bearing went bad.

Not according to the parts man # Nissan. All pumps the same.

I would think that for the purpose of safety the rule was designed for, that in the case of the Jag and Vette, the halfshaft serves AS a control arm to locate the rear hub lose one and the wheel goes every which way. In the case of the Z - the strut serves as the other, and losing an axle (heaven forbid) would not affect the orientation of the wheel in any plane, so should be ok. Of course, they probably don't want us stomping all over their current patrons, so I wouldn't be surprised if they say no - in spite of logic.

I have an '83 ZXT w/177K on it. Had dealership replace Auto Climate control Head unit that they said was bad - probably wasn't but I had no place to troubleshoot tanything at the time. 134K replaced turbo w/water-cooled T3/T4. 3" exhaust. 140K Alternator - put in ForTaurus 130A for stereo I didn't have yet. Just put on new Nisan water pump ~$40. Will be replacing Digital Dash (speedo doesn't work but OD does) and at same time am swapping out auto climate control system. Mine still works even after an AC company hosed up the vac lines (thank god for my FSM!). I intend to rid myself of Nissan's worse ideas... I already have the wiring harness and Analog Dash kit. bought 120 MPH speedo and swapped out speed sensor. Waiting on Heater/AC stuff now... Oh well - It's still cold out so I'm buiding my basement HT....Eventually will build the rotisserie for my '75 project. Too many projects and not enough time.