Brad-ManQ45

The combination you want - good launch, decent ride and big tires would seen to indicate coilovers - keep the length for wheel travel/squat/ride and the narrowed springs allow for bigger tires. Otherwise your weight transfer w/relocated perches won't be a good (shorter/stiffer springs) and ride will suffer. Am I wrong here guys?

I believe that K&N type filters are great for non-wire mass air sensors. Alot of talk about the oil mucking up the hot-wire systems. 'Course - this isn't a problem on our z's - the restrictive AFM is (vane/flapper type). I have a K&N on my '83 ZXT. brad

From what some of the transmission vendors are saying, durability is a wash between the two once upgrades are made. w/o upgrades the R700 has a bit more.... At least that's what I've read. If you're really gonna bang it, put in a 4L80E - TH400/w Electronic overdrive! ('course, you'll need the computer for it...) Hope this helps, Brad

Unless you have som bad problems w/your valvetrain, your dieseling problem is probably ignition related - not fuel related. Make sure your timing is set correctly, then check your entire ignition and secondary ignition circuitry. The person who rebuilt your carb obviously doesn't have a clue if he hasn't already mentioned these possibilities to you. From your previous post in getting the car home, I think we can pretty much rule out valvetrain problems, if once running it runs fine... Hope this helps... Brad

If I recall, this setup used ssome hobbs switches and a couple of cold start bvalves to add enrichment under boost. I think the turbo was a Rajay - but I could be wrong. Depends upon the price. What comes w/the kit? What shape is the turbo in? these ?'s and more to say whether to invest or not...

Hey Stealth! ? 4 ya. I just ran across (actually filing) my receipt from Turbonetics from '94 where I got the following: S/-72/WET/CS CHRA - watercooled centersection S-Trim Compressor Housing W/C Installation Kit and fasteners/o-rings and clipped turbine wheel. All for $588 overnite. Using stock exhaust housing on my '83 ZXT. My question is this - how does this compare to what ya'll are talking about in regard to A/R and trim? I would like a pint of reference for what to expect when I finally start upgrading the ZXT w/intercooler (air/water) and rising rate fuel pressure regulator. TIA Brad

I have Eibachs and Illuminas on the '83 ZXT and just put the Tockiko Performance shocks along w/springs & anti-sway bars from TMC Group on my '75. The '75 rides better - springs are not as stiff. Thisis just fine by me as w/the V-8 and Auto it will be my daily driver. These springs, much like the Eibachs, are progressive in the rear only - but not by much - not as much as the Eibachs which start out much stiffer (giving them bothe the 265 lb. jounce test on a back and front corner). Springs were $145 and Bars (1.125" front and .875 rear - I know - I'll take it off when the V8 goes in) were about $240. Right now the care has ZX wheels 215/60/14 Goodriches and rides nicely.

I realized at work today that I had my math wrong on the # of datapoint intersections that I posted - a result of 36 hours of straight awake - it is really only 1/4, not 1/16th. Ameliorating this somewhat is the ability to choose where those points are with the TEC system. I will agree that once you are used to the software and know it's capabilities thoroughly, one package over another is a matter of features - those missing and those you want! No I don't think it has too many features, I think that they have rested on their laurels long enough and need to develop current generation software (easy for me to say - I am a programmer by trade - I take the plans for what is needed data-wise and work with my end-user coommunity to create software that is both easy to use while giving them the needed capabilities - and a lot of the time I have to prevent them from shooting themselves in the foot), for use on hardware a bit more up-to date and faster. (I've actually been WAITING for this from them, because for the money I think they give valuta - I'm just a little dissapointed it has been sooooo slow in coming....) You makes your choice & pays your money FOR that choice. Just read that the stock computer won't read boost no matter what MAP sensor you have in it - that puts a damper on the deal. Gonna have to do soome more investigating I guess. Brad, haven't got an engine yet, Smith - signing off

If I recall (wasn't too interested in 2bbl carbs at the time, and that hasn't changed) a 4 bbl is rated at 1.5" Hg and a 2 bbl at 3". I have run Holley's of various sizes on 289, 302 and 351C engines along w/a ffew various size Chevy's, and can tell you that if you have even a mild V8, you really need a 4 bbl. Start w/600 vacuum secondaries for a mild/smaller engine, and go up from there, depending upon rev range. Remember that the smaller 4 bbl carbs from Ford on 289's were rated around 450 cfm - the Autolite carbs on 351C's were 750 cfm, of their own peculiear spread-bore pattern. A 289 whighrise intake and headers, small cam used a 600 to good effect (780 too much). Funny thing about the 351C, when using a Double Pumper Setup, It ran much better with a 700 than a 750 - the SBC liked the 750 better. Both using similar manifolds. Only reason to use a 2 bbl is to stay in class rules in racing - the 4 bbl will get better mielage AND perform better.

It was the Vector - knew I didn't have to name names.... I haven't even looked at their site since before hard disk crash ~ 3 mo. ago. I just believe the more granularity, the easier to deal with troublesome ares. Take a look at the graphic representation of some of the datamaps in the Holley literature, then image it done w/only 1/16th the # of intersections - and on a dated computer at that! For a turbocharged engine I firmly believe that due to the wider variation in manifold air pressure over a n/a engine, that this wouldn't be the best of all worlds - especially at the price they charge and enven thir software didn't look too friendly. Compared to the Holley, I'd say they have their work cut out for them if they want ot keep selling hardware. I don't konw if they have changed their policy about programming, but when I talked to them years ago, they would point to people whe were their distributors to get it all set up - even to just get the engine started - not even close to tuned. I will have to say though that their manual was/is a great window into EFI operations. I'm waiting for the next great leap, I guess, unless LT1-Edit will handle it all...

I believe in many respects, street EFI systems have to have more 'granularity' than racing systems. They are far more likely to experience a broader range of operating RPM's and conditions than race cars do. Add to the mix the possibility of turbocharging, and I start to have a real problem with at least one of the systems out there from the standpoint that they only have an 8X8 map for fuel and spark. Even though the computer does interpolation between points, I can't get past the broader range of temperature/rpms that the engine would operate under when factoring in boost, and feel that the extra datapoints will go a long way in making the engine live happier, stronger and longer. On a normally aspirated 6000 rpm V-8 this system would probably suffice. But if I wanted the same RPM range AND turbocharging, then I believe the combination of only 64 datapoints to cover the entire spectrum combined with an older CPU (read relatively slow) would tend to rule this system out. Too bad - as they are one of the few that will work with a mass air sensor (optional). I'm not going to name names, but I spent the bucks on their manual a few years ago in contemplating upgrading my '83 ZXT. A big plus was that Turbo Tom (hope people outside of Atlanta know of him) uses these systems and has programs for them - but he is down to doing custom work now and is EXPENSIVE. on the rother hand, to the best of my konwledge, they were the first (and possibly still only) aftermarket ECU company to have their product used in a car series and have that car series pass Federal Emissions guidlines in EPA testing. I know the MOTEC system is the racer's meow, but expensive. Accel is like most others- including MOTEC (Speed-Density). I really want a system that uses a mass air sensor because (in spite of the fact that I don't have to pass emissions) I would like to be as clean and as driveable as possible - no matter what I decide to do with the engine (who - ME change my mind?), and seeing the problems very hot cams can cuase on a 5.0 Mustang's early SD systems that the later MAS systems don't have is relatively convincing to me - that measurement of Air can help. I'm intending to use the LT1 engine and turbocharging it (after putting in new pistons and probably rods) so I am really looking at the LT1-Edit stuff. However, I am open to anyone's successful experience with any system approximating what I want to do with my engine. I'd really like to hear more views from those of you who who have tried one or more systems - anyone?

In CA, if your car does not have catalytic converters (you don't have to retrofit converters onto cars that did not have them originally), then you don't have to add them. You DO have to have the same year or newer engine, with all other emissions-related components for that engine. If your car is a '73 or older - no emissions at all!. I live in Atlanta, and anything 25 yrs old doesn't have emissions testing done on it so I'm cool w/my '75.

www.fonebooth.com is the same place/e brakes as the hybridz store.

Either four studs in the top of the intake manifold go through the base of the carb having nuts that hold the carb onto the intake manifold, or four bolts going through the base of the carb into the intake manifold. My bet is on the former, as I have never personally seen the latter in my 35+ years of hot rodding. You have to disconnect the throttle linkage and fuel line. I rebuilt my first holley w/o directions, simly unbolting parts and cleaning/organizing them as I went. Went back together fine and perfomed excellently! This isn't rocket science, but if you can't look at it and tell what holds it on, you'd better not try to rebuild it yourself.

Take not only my, but anyone else who has a digital dash in their ZX - DON'T use the factory dash/instuments. I have had constant problems with mine. Currently there is an errant ground wire someplace that causes the dash to brighten and dim, and the speedo doesn't work (odometer does!). I'd yank out the damn thing and put a '79 analog (130 mps) in it if I were'nt putting my money into my '75 SBC/Auto conversion.

Correct me if I'm wrong guys - ROSS? It's the setback plates that you won't need (just spacers their thickness). You will need the spacers used with the JTR kit. There isn't any setback on the ZX conversion, as there is 3-4" less room between firewall and front crossmember. I would imagine this means that you can use a regular size harmonic balancer. Look at it this way - you're gonna spend MONEY on getting something EXACTLY the way you want it - $200 is nada. If you want the early body style, best advise is to go with that. I don't have that quandry - I have an '83 ZXT and bought a '75 Z to put a SBC w/auto in. Two reasons - I LOVE the body style, and (in Atlanta, GA area) emissions is no concern if the car is older than '25 years. My '83 will have to be tested until 2008! It's already putting out ~240 hp, but it's a 5 speed and Atl traffic is no fun.

Centrifugal superchargers have next to no mileage penalty when off boost. Roots types incur the biggest penalty as you are constantly driving the mechanism compressing the air depending upon the speed of the engine. Turbo motors will always have a negligable amount of penalty due to the restriction of the exhaust necessary to spin the turbo during normal acceleration. Thisis nowhere ////near the amount of penalty from driving a Roots type Supercharger tho. Just like in a normally aspirated engine, with a turbo setup, you need to pick the ~3K RPM range you want to make your power in. The higher the rpm range, the more "lag" experienced at low speeds, and the more of a RUSH you get when the turbo starts doing its' thing! I think a 302 or 327 with a cap of 6500 rpm would work well for drag racing, cutting down on the low end torque (8.5 - 9/1 compression) allowing you to hook up, then coming on strong. It's what I have envisioned for my '75 anyway... That said,

I have had three turbo cars - an '85 Conquest (Starion) that I had the HKS intercooler setup on running 14 lbs boost, and '87 Starion ESIR that I bumped the boost up on, and my '83 280ZX Turbo. In normal around-town driving, unless you stay close to 2600 - 2800 rpm in the ZX, when you first floor it, it takes a few momentos to get up and go. Thisis after reducing lag with 3" mandrel exhaust & cat, and T3/T4 Turbo. (Assuming you're NOT in 1st gear). I am a fan of instant torque - the better to squirt through traffic. No problem, but just no as responsive - and you can NEVER eliminate ALL of the lag. The Mitsubishi products had MUCH more low end torque (2600cc 4 banger) than the 2800cc 6, so didn't notice it as much. If I were ever to rebuild the ZX engine I'd put in 9 to 1 pistons and a new FI setup and intercooler and probably never complain again, but I've always wanted a V8Z so I'm gonna do that first.

Yeah Soapadope - Keith did mine - all but the one on the left front on the control valve assembly. Apparently, and according to the guys at T3 Automotive here in Atlanta/Marietta/Smyrna, Mine has a wire coming from it that the part Keith sent didn't have. Keith never got back to me about this one, though I did get the monty back I sent in for it. He is a good guy, and so the the people at T3. A little more info for those looking at these engines - the 90-93 heads (esp. 90 & 91) are better from the standpoint that the porting was better - they wound up siamesing some of the runners/ports on later models. The 90 (& I think 91's) had sodium-filled exhaust valves. If you just want 300-340 hp (no nitrous) and need to stay w/Nissan for class rules - go for it and use the early engine but make sure the new cam chain tensioner is used. Keep the stock computer or go with the JWT computer upgrade - don't try to go aftermarket if you want to keep the VVT. Headers on one of these and a supercharger would be SWEET. I can imagine the delicious sound of a good exhaust system with this setup screaming toward 7300 rpm. Hmmm - maaybe I could be tempted to change my mind....Drop the compression a point and a half and have JWT work some magic.... OH NO - I've got it bad - now I can't decide....

For what it is worth guys, the '96 Q45 engine did not have the variable valve (intake) timing, and consequently had less power (area under the curve). Definitely get one that has the 94+ cam guides. Many early models have had this done. I have a '94 Q45a (57K miles) and this year had the Active Suspension rejuvenated - I never knew it could ride this smooth - it wasn't this good when I bought it w/32K on it! The engine is sweet, but for my '75 I'm gonna do the SMC (302/327) and turbo it. It's a matter of $$$. Keep in mind that these engines are EXPENSIVE to work on. Since I'm not gonna do any organized racing I dodn't have to worry about rules (RULES - we don't need no stinking RULES!)

If I lived in the mountains, or high desert like I did in El Paso, the turbo could be a lot of fun - easy to stomp V-8's. If you only want what the stock injectors can do for you just get the '83 Turbo setup w/your hybrid turbo and an intercooler - although that will really start taxing the stock injectors if you run more than 10-12 lbs of boost. You can get a few more hamsters by adding a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, but don't expect miracles here. You're not able to go up in injector size w/o computer change. If you want more: DO NOT - I will repeat DO NOT get the modified 300ZX unit - tuning difficulties will abound. Go SDS and pat yourself on the back. If you like low end torque and hate the rubber-band acceleration of a small turbo motor, go the V-8. I have an '83 Turbo with stock injectors pretty well maxed, and a '75 that I'm going to put a V-8 in. Since I live in Atlanta now I will use the turbo to go to the mountains and the V-8 for fun around town!

I have already ordered it after reading the JTR manual on V-8 swap 'til I can just about quote everything verbatim. I ordered the TPI manual jusat in case it may have something about LT1's (doubtful). As I will be using an Accel/DFI computer system, don't know how much it will help. Thanks for the input.

I've looked but don't think I've seen anyone who has documented LT1 W/AC swap in an early Z.... I have an '82 Turbo that's currently getting the most out of stock injectors w/o rising rate fuel pressure regulator. It's a 5 speed and I loved it as long as I don't have to drive it in traffic much (hip probs). I have '75 280 that I am currently reworking the suspension on, planning an LT1 swap. Drooling over Ross's stuff and will be contacting him next month when I can hide more money from the Mrs.... Will stock 'vette brackets work? Any problems w/harmonic balancer/optical distributor and the front crossmember? TIA for the input... Brad

What do you guys think of going JE and using 6" rods on the 302? I know that the short stroke already gives the 5.7" rods a better rod/stroke ratio, but this would take even MORE side-load off the pistons and let it run more compression to boot. I must say I a seriously considering using a 302/w/auto on my '75 project (I have an '83 Turbo 5-speed and am tired of shifting in Atlanta traffic). You think this is overkill?

Any difficulties putting an LT1 in a 280Z? Concerned w/Distributor/harmonic balancer area and crossmember. Any tips/advice would be appreciated. Brad