jasonZ

These are the best I could find in a quick search of my favorites. They are from pete's home page. http://alteredz.com/TrialFit.htm Hope that's what you were looking for. By the way, this is a JTR conversion. Jason

This web site lists #3970020 as a 2 bolt main 307 1969-73. Not the best Chevy ever made but it will run fine while you build a BIG motor. Heres the link: http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm Jason

Some day you too may be blessed with a daughter. You will then have the answers to all of your questions. My oldest daughter is 12 and is rapidly discovering that she likes boys. Take your time and just enjoy your time with your gf. It sounds like her mom is doing her job, being a parent. If only more parents would keep such a close eye on their kids! Jason

Here's a link to their homepage http://www.racepumps.com/index.html I have been looking at these pumps for quite a while and they seem to be a good product. It definatly would simplify the fuel system on an EFI engine. Not sure about any clearance issues as I don't have an engine in my car yet. I'm sure there would be some issues with the set back plate in a JTR configuration but I don't think it would be a deal breaker. Jason

Read through the 002 group buy thread. Yes they do fit with 225-50-16 on stock springs.

I sure hope so. I bought the same ones. I'll find out in about a week!

Hey Matt, I thought you were selling your Z. Glad to see you didn't have to part with it, nice looking car. Jason

I'm in, can't wait to se the data. Thanks to everone who made this happen!

You sunk my battleship!!! I was playing that game with my son today and that code just reminded me of it.

The car will be a driver with an occasional trip down the 1/4 mile (might try a open track day also). It has a stock R-200 with 3.54 gear. Tire size will be 225-50-16. Eventually it will have a G-force T5 but I will start with a used Camaro T5 to get it on the road.(still looking for a trans if any one has one they are willing to part with!!!) The G-force gear ratios are: 2.92 1.99 1.34 1.0 .73 As far as the C/R goes, that's about what I was shooting for. I think it will be livable on the street. This engine will never see boost or nitrous so i'm not worried about the piston choice. I know the vortec heads have a weak exhaust port but the flow #'s posted on Car Craft's website seem to indicate that Edelbrock has addressed that issue. Thats all I can think of off the top of my head. Any other questions or comments are always welcome. Jason

Well, i'm about to purchase the final parts to button up my small block so I thought I would take advantage of the wealth of knowledge on this site to catch any mistakes before it's too late. Heres the combo .030 over 350 GM steel crank Eagle H-beam rods KB hypereutectic pistons (flat top) Speed Pro file fit rings Crane hyd. roller part#119831 (.509/.528 lift 222/230@.050) Edelbrock E-Tec 200 vortec style heads Edelbrok performer RPM Air-Gap 750 Holley type carb Those are the highlights. I can't decide on the rocker ratio yet. This will be going into my 76 Z. The short block is done and cam installed. I will order the top end this week so I just wanted some reassurence that the combo is ok. I'm shooting for 400 HP, Dyno 2000 says i'm there but I think you guys know more than a sim program. Any comments or sugestions are welcome. Thanks in advance Jason

Nice to hear my backside will like them! I'm a bit concerned about fit. I've seen pics of them installed in a 240 (I think it was Aux's car) but the tunnel in my 76 is wider. I should have them by the middle of the week. If the weather is good I will check the fit right away and post the results. Jason

I guess ebay is good once in a while: $60+$55 to ship. I don't feel too bad about that. I had been having a tough time finding seats I like. I tried a pair out of a Pulsar I believe but the seat pan was not making it easy on me. Hey Aux, these are the same you are using right? How do you like them overall?

I saw these a while back and thought they would fit nicely in ths thread. hope that worked, first time posting pics!

pics are always helpful!

Think hard about what you are about to do. You will have to be extreamly accurate on the location of the new hole. It's not as simple as it might sound. I don't know your background however I have been a machineist for around 15 years so I know a bit about what I am saying. You will need to build a drill fixture that will refference off of the original bolt holes. The fixture would need to have removeable drill bushings to guide the tap drill, counter bore and tap. I am not trying to tell you that it can't be done, I just feel that finding the proper starter will present fewer problems. Think about it, if you are off by just a bit your starter will not align properly causing increased wear on the starter, ring gear, or both. There are only really 2 styles of Chevy starters to choose from, staggered or straight bolt pattern. The staggered bolt pattern was used with 168 the tooth flywheel. Most auto trans equiped cars used this flywheel. I can't think of an application that used the 400 in front of a manual trans which is probably why the factory didn't drill the other (straight) bolt pattern in the block. Other engines were destined for both auto and manual trans applications and recieved both bolt patterns. The straight pattern was used with the 153 tooth flywheel. You never answered the question about which flywheel you are using. My guess is that it is 153 tooth. In this case The best bet is to use the CSR starter refrenced earlier in this thread. If it is a 168 tooth wheel, any staggered pattern starter will work. Sorry this post is so long, I would just hate to see you make a quick decision and risk destroying a good 400 block. I faced this same problem early this year and a few members here gave me some good advice (I was ready to drill my block before I posted a question about it) just trying to return the favor. Good luck, hope everything turns out well.

6 1/2 hours to go, no work to do. Just watching the SNOW pile up. 2 inches so far and it's supposed to go all night!

Are you using a 153 tooth flywheel? If you are, you need a starter with the other bolt pattern (straight across). I don't think the 400 block was drilled with both patterns. I ran into this same problem building my last engine and a member here told me about a CSR starter that comes with an adapter for use on a 400 block with the smaller flywheel. Part # CSR-100-SBP is what you will need. Price is around $250. I have run this starter on my 383 for about 4 months now, working great. ha nullbound beat me to the punch! Thanks for the heads up on the starter Ryan, it works great.

I read a magazine article about a V8 jag that mentioned JTR. Started looking at the Datsun section on their web site and thought it was the coolest thing ever. I searched for V8 Zcar pics on google and found Pete's car, read through his site and was hooked. Spent lots of time lurking and searching here, took a year to find a useable Z (it ended up being 5 blocks from my house and only $500!) Just about ready to drop in the Chevy. I havent posted much simply because all of my questions have been answered by searching! Thanks everyone for the wealth of great information on this site. I hope to be able to post pics of my finished swap soon!

Hutchinson, Kansas

Flat tappet lifters are not actually flat. The end is ground in a slightly convex shape which causes the lifter to spin in it's bore. If the lifter bore is damaged, worn, or just gummed up the lifter may not be able to spin freely and this type of wear could happen quite quickly. Lashing the valve tighter sped up the process but the damage was already done. Glad to hear Edelbrock is standing behind their product.

I think I remember reading a write up on this mod. The members name was BLKMGK I think. I don't think you have to do any cutting, the marker fits in the same hole. Just mount the light with the original hole at the front and drill a new hole for the other screw. It's been a while since I red that post and I can't seem to find in now. Hope that helps.

Would this tank work in a non FI application? I am starting out with a carb setup but may switch after the car is sorted out. Thanks Jason

I got a 76 280z in september. I guess it would run if I put the six and all of the wireing back in. But then what would I do with the pile of V8 swap parts that I have been gathering this winter?

Thanks for all the info. I already have the CSR starter pictured and will get with them to see about the adapter plate. I was nervous about drilling, I have the proper equipment to drill, counterbore, and tap but the alignment would have been the tough part. Adapter is by far the best solution. Thanks again for great info, i'll keep everyone posted when the Z project takes off. Jason