AK-Z

Nice. Well this is what I want ot do. I have two 280z's, ones is a parts car. For the swap, I was thinking on keeping everything stock on the motor for now on the engine and run the car like that for a while. There is no ecu to speak of, so I'm looking for a ECU from a automatic (no speed limiter, and fairly easy to find) but I also need the pig tail from it (harder to find). I know I should go MSnS but then I won't be able to get it IM'ed. I was thinking of modding the stock ECU with a bikirom daughter board later on, then turbo the sucker. As far as tranny, the one that is on there is an auto and it shifts kinda hard. I wouldn't want to use anyways. I can't seem to find a KA manual tranny up here, so I was thinking on adapting the 5 speed from my L28. I know the tranny is weaker than the KA tranny but for now it should be good enough.

GOOD IDEA. There are a bunch of pathfinders up here. Might be able to snag a oil pan and oil pickup. (BTW pathfinders also came with the KA but those blocks were produced in Mexico and Malasia(sp), the ones from teh 240sx came from japan. Just some useles knowlegde for ya)

I got the KA24DE and auto tranny from Stony yesturday. It looks like the oil pan would have to be replaced with a rear sump to clear the cross member. Does anyone know of there being a rear sump on a KA? Or any suggestionson the swap. I know its not the same as a SR but I woul like the insight on both KA and SR issues you guys ran into.

I know this is a old thread, But I suggest on swapping the 6 speed for a 5 speed. Reason is, is that the speedo sender is not on the tranny, its on the diff on the S15 . So either keep the tranny and swap the diff as well, or get a 5 speed, I believe the KA tranny and SR trannies are the same as far as bell housing and mounting goes.

The reason why there hasn't been a CF engine built yet is because because CF is flamable. Now there are heat treated CF parts (baked) but that turns into a totally different material that everyone categorieses it with CF, which iI believe is called thermal plastic. They used it to build the F22 Raptor. Even then the material can only take so much heat. Regular CF material is suspesnded in resin. The CF itself (cloth) isn't flamable but because of the resin, it causes a wik effect, kind a of like the science project where you try to light a pile of sugar, when you intorduce carbon to it , it lights. So the reason I see for such a block to exist is because of the resin. IF they made a resin that withstand +900 degrees. than I would see someone at least trying to build one.

Yeah I do that alot when I'm air brushing. didn't know that would happen with a spray gun. Usually I adjust the nozzle to compensate on my air brush. If you opted for the cheaper gun (which is fine), you won't be able to adjust the nozzle for that purpose.

Looking at my 280z, I know what you are talking about but mine is integrated with the door weather stripping. I don't know if yours it also (240z). I would guess its the "door weather stripping" because they usually come in kits for the sectionof the car. If it was teh "upper door seal" they (vender) might get confused with the weather stripping seal thats on the later model 280z, that is "on" the window frame on the door.

So you took the SMAW class. You can tell how much metal would bend with welding heat them thats why you tamper the space between the plates when you butt joint it (doing 1/8" or thinner with Stick). The blow through isn't really th problem when spot welding, its the heat (heat=warpage) blow through would mean you have too much heat, and/or holding it there for too long, which is also too much heat. You want the most heat in the smallest area for the shortest amount of time. Fast and Hot.

Ok. I decided to go ahead with it. The motor has (from stony's guess) 130K miles on it. My L28's have well over that. Any thing that I might run into with the swap? So I guess I have some L28 goodies up for grabs then. They aren't on the engine, I also have complete stock L28 engines, N42 and N47. Other things I have up for grabs are: zx83 turbo distributor dizzy/oil pump shaft for turbo and NA 83 Turbo oil pump NA oil pump I'll list more later. PM an offer and ask to see if I have other parts.

I didn't know what LPG was either, now I know haha. Makes me want to convert over, with gasoline prices hitting $3.00 a gallon for 86 OC(US$1.26 per litre). But we don't have LPG that I know of in the states.

To specify, you lay row of tack 1 inch apart, then you lay another row of tacks in between the row of tacks you just previously layed. Kinda tedious, but since you took welding class, you would know why you weld body work in this fashon. Remember to spot weld 1 inch apart for every row you layed down. Once you are done, it should look like you layed a single bead.

wire brush its the way to clean it. there are "weldable primers" like "galvicoat. it uses zinc as a base, when heated it turns to ash. For small parts, I use a sand blasting chamber that my dad has at his work, they usually load it up with baking soda. With your problems with welding, are you using a extension cord? there could be some amperage drop because of the cord. I would go to a electrical/hardware store and buy some heavy gauge electrical wireing and put some ends on it.

What a sound. Nice to hear a throaty V8 once in a while after hearing freakin nang nang rice cookers all the time. Freakin ricers are taking over the streets up here.

With the pedals, you don't need to swap them. You just need to bend the brake pedal to the right a little and then grind at the pad to narrow it, then you just need to install a clutch pedal and all the things that go along with that.

K thanx. Oh BTW I would swap pretty much everything from the tranny back. the auto 280z came with a R180 diff, and the manual version came with a slightly more beefier R200. I think it would be easier to just drop the whole rear and swap them, then you wouldn't need a custom driveshaft.

Whats the updates on this?

Yes they are different, partly because the manual and auto came with different differencials. Does your friend just want to get rid of the KA tranny? I need a KA tranny. Anything wrong with it?

I soda blasted mine in my welding class and cleaned it with brake cleaner, then hung and sprayed color (its primer now because I can't figure out what color to paint the car).

I thought baking soda was a base. Anyways, they use a solution of sulphuric acid and then the use a form of reverse electroplating to help speed the process. I guess its a choice of base (soda blasting [baking soda]) or acid (acid dipping). haha

Should I do a KA24 swap on my Z? Stony mentioned to me that he has a KA that he wants to get rid of. I'm temped in doing this swap but, is it worth it? I know I would have to have a custom driveshaft and motor/tranny mounts. I see the power to weight ratio being better with a KA swap. I know that the 280z weighs something around 1200-1250 kg and a 240sx weighs about 1700 kg. with a KA motor it would be even lighter and stock HP or KA would be 140-155 hp, which would be easier to tweek for more HP. Edit: Stony told me that is has a auto trans but has something wrong with it.

Steam preasure washer to the engine bay. Did that with my Jeep, cleans everything right up. My dad says that it will even clean off undercoating, but I won't believe it till I see it.

After they dip it, they usually don't wipe down the acid residue. and trying to wipe in all the nooks and crankies is a pain especially when you don't need to do in certain areas. Soda blasting is easier IMO. the soda residue thats left over is fine enough to be incorperated into a primer coat and is easy to sand level with the primer, unlike silica or walnut. It does absorb a little moisture so you would have to spray another layer of primer, but you would have to do that anyways. Edit: I know sanding in ALL the areas is impossible so you would have to primer the car twice. One to primer and set the loose soda dust, two to cover the soda particals that are big enough to peak through the first layer of primer.

Haha I paid $400 for one of my 280z and it came with an engine. haha and its in better (somewhat) condition than that, but it has an auto in there. That will be changes VERY shortly. haha.

What gasket height are your suggestions reffering to? As in shaving the N42 head for ideal quenching. wouldn't it be easier to just get a thinner head gasket? Oh BTW whats the OEM gasket height?