AK-Z

I skimmed through it so I might of missed some stuff. You can pop off the hood by unbolting the hinge bolts from the front if you can get around the grille. then you can access the radiator. I recall someone had sort of the same problem, but ther car had a aftermarket radiator with the fill cap on the driver side. They had an issue with the AFM getting wet and then cause the engine to not start. So I say check the AFM connections. It could of came loos in the crash or the connections could of got wet from the steam. I wouldn't know what teh clunking noise would be though.

The 83 won't just drop in. Reason being is that the "oil shaft" and the dizzy shaft have different fittings. So you would have to replace the shaft that drive the oil pump and dizzy. As far as the oil pump is concerned, both types have the same fit on that side of the shaft. Actually I have a 83 turbo dizzy, shaft, and turbo oil pump that I don't need anymore because I'm doing a KA swap in my zcar. PM me we'll talk

I figured out what the pin out is I posted this on KA-t.org I finally figured out what each of the pins are for!!!! In the manual it says that the power transistor and coil are internal (part of the reason why I was so confused). Well here is the pin out (6x1 pin connection) 1-2-3-4-5-6 1.Goes to pin one on the ECU to pin 1 and the lead wire is white. 2.Goes to ground and is black 3.Goes to ECU pin 40 and 44 and I belive it is dioded to 44 with it eing positive, it is white 4.Goes to the ECU pin 41 and 45, it is black 5. goes to the ECU pin 56 and 61 with pin 5 on the dizzy dioded with pin 5 being positive, wires are black white 6.Goes to ground, wires are black as fo the 2x1 connector 1-2 1.Goes to the resistor with a light green/black wire and from the resistor to the ECU using a yellow/red wire to pin 2 2. Goes from ignition somewhere using a black/red wireand is dioded So the on the 6 pin the first 2 pins are for the transistor (pin 1 being the signal), the other 4 are for the "Cam position sensor", which I assume I can use as a CAS since it pretty much the same as the zxt dizzy. So now I can figure out how to use MSnS with since the 280zxt version is much similar to this which I am much more familar with. Yeah less parts to buy =))

I've already checked and yes it does have the optical wheel trigger and has 4 decoder holes. What I'm really asking is how would I wire it up? It has 2 connections, one is a 6x1 pin connection that I assume is for the optical, and a 2x1 pin connector that I assume is for the ignitor/coil (doesn't use coil but just for refference). Oh and there is another connection that is a single pin for the condensor but thats not important. Thats what I'm really asking, because no one seems to have it setup like that.

As some of you guys know I am trying to do a KA24DE swap into my 280z (frankly for the hell of it so don't argue). The engine is from a 95 S14 I believe with no ECU. Ok, my situation with MS: Since I have a the S14 model of the engine, the distributor is ECCS (ecu) controled much like the 280zxt dizzy setup. Does anyone know if there are people running MS on there 240sx's using this ditributor? I can't seem to find anyone using this setup. I've searched the KA-t.org boards and the MS forums and can't find a direct answer. BTW, for now I just want to have everything pretty much stock. Then when I have everything working, I'll start fiddling around with the damn thing.

I have a 76 and a 78 and they seem to be the same. The ZX models are diffreent from what I've have heard.

Heres a thread that might help. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98875

I used bondo from walmart on my hood. Its all about prep work. I primered my hood with rust zero first then dusted it with crap primer and sanded it with 320 grit to locate high low spots. Then bondoed, sanded, primered, painted, sanded some more and then cleared (still need to wet sand).

I skimmed through it so I might of missed some stuff. You can pop off the hood by unbolting the hinge bolts from the front if you can get around the grille. then you can access the radiator. I recall someone had sort of the same problem, but ther car had a aftermarket radiator with the fill cap on the driver side. They had an issue with the AFM getting wet and then cause the engine to not start. So I say check the AFM connections. It could of came loos in the crash or the connections could of got wet from the steam. I wouldn't know what teh clunking noise would be though.

I suggest you invest in a paint gun (assuming you have a compressor because you have a media blaster) and 2 cans of "rust zero" some thinner and some metal to build a rotisserie.

Good to hear:mrgreen:

So are you converting the a NA engine to turbo? If so. for low boost just disable the vacuum advance on the dizzy and just get higher flowing injectors. The ideal solution is to rebuild the bottom end for lower compression then you can raise the boost more than you are able to with a NA to turbo conversion. But most of us are cheap. I have read that the stock parts can stand up to 200-250ish (?) HP. For MS you really only need the turbo dizzy if you going with a MSnS spark control setup using th CAS as a trigger. Oh BTW I have a turbo oil pump if you are interested, along with a turbo dizzy and the shaft that goes with that.

I've "tried" welding aluminum with oxy before. The problem is the surface of the metal is usually covered with aluminum oxide which melts at a higher temp than the base metal, so you have to wire brush it or sand it. Cutting aluminum with a oxy cutting torch uses the same principle to cut as it would steel. It heats up the area with a balanced flame and then hits it with oxygen to excellorate oxidizing (rusting for steel) to weaken the metal and help push it away. the problem is that alluminum distorts faster than steel. I have a victor setup at home because I get everything cheap for it from my dad's work. That equipment looks interesting I have to ask the local welders to see what they think about it.

Why a electric motor? Not trying to flame, just wan to know your reasons. You could of used a lawn mower engine since the alternator isn't position ordiented to function. Then you could of modded a go pedal to change amp/voltage haha. I have to say cool though. great work.

Maybe a oil feed line? Or a exhaust leak somewhere or the wastegate? I'm no expert, just throwing out ideas.

Good to hear. I find messing with connections is a lot easier than messing with timing .

First gen style Z didn't come with rear wipers (should of though IMO).

try removing the oil pump, backing the drive shaft (what jmortensen was speaking about) a little ratating it to correct position and then moving that 10 degrees more. there reason 10 degrees is because you kinda have to rotate it in and once in, it should give you the position you wanted. Remember the Keyed part on the bottom match the top (top it offset alittle so you don't 180 the dizzy). And always remeber to TDC it because its more work later on if you don't.

I say check everything else before you check timing. As for what jmortensen said, have the engine at TDC before you do that so you can have everything just right.

Min doesn't have a mark on it so I can't help you there. But you can adjust the dizzy some more, where the "plate is mounted to the dizzy, there is a tiny (i think its a 5 mm bolt) the dizzy can be adjusted further if you loosen that. You might have to clean the area to find it because I only foun that out when I took it out to clean it.

Most likely you did, but I'm asking anyways. Did you check the rotor and cap? And also the spark plus to see if they were fouled? Another problem area is the battery terminals and the connection to the starter. Also check the connection to the AFM I have found that many people with L28's and had problems starting had this as one of the problems. (disconnect the battery) unplug the connection, clean it (both sides) with a wire brush and put a little bit of dielectric grease on each pin, and plug it back it. If it was running before than I don't see anything that would cause it to not work other than someone messing with it and/or time.

Oh, OK. I didn't read it clearly. Do what I said in my last post. The pics I'll post later will help. On the 280z engine, there are 2 ways to advance or retard the spark. On the bottom of the dizzy is a plate bolted to it, adjustment bolt should be on the front side of the dizzy. I think it only gives you 15 degrees to adjust. If you need to adjust it even more than what is allowed, there is a tiny bolt on the under side that you can mess with for another 15 degrees, but if you need to adjust that much than I think you have the plug wires in the wrong order or the dizzy/wire order 180'ed. Try to clean the area under the dizzy, I didn't even know it was there untill I took it out (it was caked with dirt and oil).

If you want to mess with timing on the dizzy, why not just loosen the bolt on the advance plate and rotate the dizzy and tighten. This is going off of the first gen Z car so I don't know if the ZX had a advance adjust ment on the dizzy. I will post pics later since I have both NA and turbo dizzy out of the car right now. BTW is it NA or turboed?

I wish I could do a SR swap (maybe later on, WAY later on). But for know I'm going to try to do a KA swap. Would make things easier if and when I decide to do a SR swap. Any common issues you guys ran into on the swap. Well, to at least contribute something to the intend of this thread. Have you guys weighed it?

Yeah I know. Torque isn't really what I'm after. This will be more of an autox/rally car than a drag car. The weight saved is a big plus though. Sorry Kennysgreen280zt I already ordered a MSnS kit. I figured I would be going distributorless sooner or later anyways. And as far as IM is concerned, I called the state IM ref and he said I wouldn't need to run an IM test if I only use it in the summer (summer time only pass), whiich I would only have to dyno at one of there facilities. Edit: I might be still interested in the ECU and pig tail if its cheap enough. The site I ordered it MSnS from is backordered so I can still cancel.