AK-Z

That is a common problem with these engines. Usually is the connection between the ECU and the harness and some times a connection to something else, not sure but I suggest checking the AFM. Just clean the connections and it should work.

Could be bad valve guides and/or head gasket. Try getting a compression test done. Only way to find out for sure is to pop off the head.

First off, re-read your posts before you actually submit them. Second, any details on the car (how long its been sitting, visible damage ect.) Just from what you said I can only make suggestions. Jumping the car and not hearing a "click" when trying to crank it over, I would guess that it would be a dead battery, and maybe a bad alternator. Because of your name (77datsun) I would assume that its fuel injected. Is the issue with speed limited to RPM? Like does it lonly rev up to 3000 or 4000 rpm? If it is, that usually means that the electrical connections from the ecu and other connecters need to be cleaned. Idle problem would be probably the previous 2 issues and probably the throttle body needs to be adjusted. By "knocking" do you mean backfiring? boom boom from the exhaust? That means there is too much fuel in the engine. Th actual knocking would be to less fuel and is usually asociated with turbo'd engines. Vibration from the steering would be 4 things: wheels and tires aren't ballanced or belt. Allinement is off spindle is bent And/or the brake rotor(s) are bent As far as engine swaps, I don't recommend it inless you are mechanically and/or electrically inclined or if you are having someone else do the work. Either way its going to take cash. Its just doing it yourself is so much cheaper, but you are more likely to screwup and have no one else to blame

I've posted on ka-t.org and MS forums and no one seems to be answering back. Well anyways. Do I set it up as a Hall trigger as far as tuning is concerned? BTW, I'm using the stock dizzy with internal CAS. And do I set it to 78* trigger angle and 10* fixed angle? Are all nissans setup the same way as far as timing is concerned? Do I tune spark like I would a L28? That would make things a whole lot easier. I can get a bse map for fuel but no one seems to be able to set base timing with the stock ignition system. They can only give me spark maps for 36-1 tooth version.

So, for kit I think v2.2 is better for me. firmware I should get the MS-I that comes with the kit? Does MS-I have spark control, or do I have to load MSnS or MSnS-E? Can I do that on the MS-I kit?

Thats awsome. But one thing, I know that, that is a model to show suspension but how would the drive line be hooked up? I would see youe needing telescoping half shafts.

Haha. My sister just moved to georgia and she freakin hates spiders. Well my responsse to that is: Grab a hammer and "You go squish now" haha

2 reasons, fabbing exhaust system and I'm lazy, lol. I find it easier to fab up brackets than an exhaust manifold and location won't really be a problem since I'm goin to be removing the p/s pump. Tuning fuel maps will be different, But I think it will be slightly easier to setup with a s/c. Set fuel by rpm because boost will be controlled by crank. I like throttle response more than power. And to up boost, all I would need would be a pulley. And again I'm lazy haha. Another thing, would it be wise to put a front mount IC? How big? I was thinking of putting the smallest pulley and controlling the amount of boost using a BOV. does that sound like it will work?

I wouldn't recommend doing that. Reason being, bondo and f/g expand and contract at different rates than metal. Over time it will show the effects through the paint. If anything I would use f/g, then rough sand the f/g and then even it out using bondo. Bondo should only be used to even the surface of the area(s) and not to fill gaps and holes. Application of the LEAST amount of bondo is best, by this I mean the amount used that is on the area AFTER sanding. I went through a small can of bondo just to even the surface on a STRAIGHT and UNDENTED non-vent hood. Metal distorts over time, thats the reason why I bondo'd the hood and the amount left on the hood after, I would guess to be about 1/8 of a can for the whole hood.

Ok, thanks. I was wondering because my KA24de came with a powersteering pump and was debating why I should even use it. If it handles better with a lighter engine, then I don't see a reason to bother with it. Another question. I was thinking about going supercharger on this. I think something like a eaton would be to big for my application. I was thinking something like whats on the mazda millenium. Does any one know who make that s/c? I know tuning for peak efficiancey will be hard to attain, but I am use to NA motors anyways. And I think that it a better application for a KA24DE with stock internals. Any othe s/c you guys suggest for a 2.4L? If I wanted to turbo it I would rebuild the motor with turbo in mind (new internals, lower compresion, ect., but cost $$$). Any suggestion on anything?

How it handling using the Z rack and pinion? Just curious.

Isn't a vortec superchager the sort of same thing? Just another knock off I guess.

Try some WD40. Mpst of the time that bugs and road tar and other stuff stick to the car is because of grease. You use WD40 to dolute it. Spray it down Let it sit a little, then give it a wash. Try it in a small area first because I don't know if you paint will do anything if it sits too long.

Sorry I feel like I'm pesturing you with all these questions. So a pullup resistor on pin 1 ok. So do I put it to a 5v source or a 12v? in your diagram in the stick it says 5v. Whats ther different between MS I and MS II? is MS I upgradable to II? The kit you mentioned ($137) is MS I, the MS II is $230.

So where do you suggest in buying a kit from? Firmware? Well from what you said, this is how I thikn it would be wired. is this right? And on the v3.0 wire up, in the blue, is that right ? Shouldn't the resistor be wired in with the 180* to the relay board and not connected to 12v with a 1 k resistor? v2.2 v3.0

I haven't done it myself but here are some suggestions. if it doesn't sound right then there is probably a better way. You can get replacements for the center and corner from tabco, thats where pretty much most companies order replacement parts from fo the datsuns. For the bumper indentations on the side I see 2 ways in "shaving" the area. One would be to cut a piece of sheet that would cover the indent and tacking it grinding and then body filling. Second would be to cut out the indent altogether and cutting a piece of sheet and doing the same thing. Now this is for the indent for the bumper and not the damaged area.

I need to do the same thing. But I haven't delt with datsunzparts.com before. As for advice. I say tack bracing on the inside. When you deal with anything structural like floor pans, it is always a good idea to keep the car geometry straight. just get some scrap tubing and brace the inside using tack welds.

I haven't ordered a MS setup yet. Well I did but they were back ordered so I decided to cancel because I ran into this little issue and wouldn't want to buy, then come to find out that it only work with more parts. So on the v3.0 board, I would only need to connect the positive to the FIDLE with a wire with a 1k resistor going to a 5V source and the negative to ground, as far as coil is concerned. Correct? If I use a v2.2 board, This setup would look like it would work ?(lets face it, we're all just guessing here, lol) What about trying to use the transistor like you mentioned? Maybe if I new how the GM HEI worked, I could then probably find a way to make MS work with the transistor.

Ok. Then how would I wire it up with the transistor? Do I even need a GM HEI modual then? From what I can figure out, this is the way to set it up with out the transistor. Look at the first diagram to see out its wired So the pin out is: 1. lead to the transistor, I am guessing that its the signal lead 2. lead to the transistor and goes to ground 3. 1*signal, not used 4. 180* signal, 5. 12v source 6. ground Coil: 7. 12v to coil 8. Negative to coil Coil is internally connected to rotor.

If you look at the first schematic, you can see the transistor. its an internal component in the dizzy. So if I use a GM HEI modual, then I wouldn't use it, correct? I'm sure I can figure a way to use it but I'm already confused enough and am going off of the zxt instructions to try to figure everything out.

You still want my dizzy and dizzy and oil pump shaft?

Thanks that helps alot. Now about the transistor. I assume you dont wire it up because I dont see a ballast on the zxt setup. correct?

Oh yeah, Duh. :burnout:Well I still need my question answered. Which source do I use for MS trigger? the 180* signal or the 1* signal?

Ok I just about have everything figured out. I only have one question and its related to the ZXT dizzy setup. Looking at the diagram the CAS signal that MSnS gets is from the green/black wire, is that for the 1 degree signal or the (remember this is reffering to the L6 engine) 6 hole decoder. In the 240sx manual its called the 180 degree signal (4 cylindar, but shouldn't it be called a 90 degree signal instead? oh well) and the 1 degree signal. Oh another quick question. the transistor, I assume is for ballast so would I just leave the 2 leads to it just disconnected and run the coil with a straight 12v?

Well here's a schem of what I'm dealing with and a compareo of the setup with the zxt dizzy setup. 95 240sx dizzy/ignition out of the manual And then there is the setup thats for the 280zxt 83 dizzy setup that was posted here on one of the stickies. Can someone help me figure out how I'm suppose to wire this to have it work?