AK-Z

Hmmm. interesting. I might want to try that iron phosphate. thanx

Powder coating and just something to mess around with are my reasons. Plus I rather be doublely sure that the parts aren't going to rust. I rather wait than spend time sanding/grinding/blasting heavy rust.

Actually, I bought some stuff from walmart that does the job quite well. Its "rust remover; jelly rust remover" by klean strip (spelled correctly). I just bought it to see how well it would work. I was entirely surprised. With in 5 min the surface rust was gone, then in 10-20, most of the deeper rust was visibally reduced. I wish I had a camera so I can show you guys. It says that it contains phosphoric acid and alcohol, so I assume that it can be mixed with water, but haven't tried it and it seems to work better when generously applied.

Huh. I'll keep that in mind when I'm buying plugs.

I have heard nothing but bad things about platinum plugs. Maybe because its a poor conductor. Heard nothing but praises from the uridium(sp?) plugs.

I said "IF", and I was saying that thats what he would have to do IF he did change the diff gear. Whether or not the donor car had the same diff ratio is another story.

You Obviously didn't read that last part I posted. Th speedo gear needs to be changed to match the gearing of the diff because of the final drive. If he just swapped the diff with one from a different gear ratio, he would still need to swap the speedo gear to match the final drive of the new diff.

Speedo cable attaches to the tranny, not the diff. If he change the tranny AND the diff from the same car, then he wouldn't need to change the speedo gear. All he has to do is swap the speedo gear from his old tranny into his new one, if he did nothing to the diff.

you mean supR 2nR tv (or some other way that they spelled super tuner tv)? For that show, the content was good, but the presentation lacked something. I enjoyed it though. Anyways for trucks; My dad got most of his parts from where stacey plugging their name on the show. Took him a month to rebuild a tranny and to assemble and paint the body parts from the business that were mentioned on trucks. I haven't seen the new trucks though.

The way that you would get a inacuate reading would be, if the speedo gear didn't match the differential ratio. The speedo speed would be the same if you put the same speedo gear into any datsun tranny, as far as driveshaft is concerned. The gear gets its measurement in relation to the speed of the drive shaft, It the differential gear that would alter you readlings. So speedo gear has to match with the diff. So if all you did was swap out the tranny, then you would only need the speedo gear (the piece that the speedo cable connects to on the tranny) from your old tranny.

it would curve more outward, but keep in mind that these panels aren't that thick, maybe 1/32 inche at the most. so it wouldn't be an issue. You overlap weld for a couple of reasons. a lap joint is stronger than a butt joint (butting the pieces up against each other and then welding). If you butt joint using tacks, the leading edge will not be straight it will stretch the metal around the tacks. So the straight edge between tacks will be spaced away from each other. Then to fix the spacing, you would have to use bigger tacks --> longer welds --> more heat = warpage.

Smoothing overlap weld. Thats what the bondo (body filler) is for. Body filler should not be more than a 1/8 inche thick on a panel. Sanding down body filler is a lot easier than grinding a panel flush.

If it is a vacuum leak, you hould be able to find it by listening for a hissing noise in the engine compartment with the car running at idle (not very easy with these engines).

Misc tech or non tech area. The one that I have thats in worse shape, I didn't even pay for, it was given to me (only way I would of taken it).

Wow i didn't even notice that. haha. N/M about my question before then.

You cut off the rusted part. clean the area to be welded and do a overlap tack weld. Tack about 1 to 2 inches apart. go back and tack in between those tacks, repeat keeping in mind of keeping 1 to 2 inches part in the pass, untill you tacks produce a bead. remember to let it cool enough between passes. Then dress the weld (grind flush), bondo, primer, paint. You do that tack process to keep metal warpage to a minimum. You can just do 2 passes but I wouldn't recommend it for anything structal. maybe a fender patch panel. I would recomment to use seam sealer (I think it was called body dope) after you dress the tacks.

How about relocating where the bumper struts(?) are mounted on the frame. I can't look at my car right now, so i can't tell you if the radiator would be a issue if you do relocate.

Are you talking about stony's page? He has a 260z and if I recall, it did have a gnose on it at one point, as well as a FC rx7 with a different than stock bumper (area in front of the headlight compartment were gone). Here's his webpage http://www.geocities.com/stonehac the rx7 link is on the bottom.

Haha. I have a airbrush and I can't hardly do anything with it. That thing as some crazy detail. I wouldn't want any of my cars to be like that, because then i would feel guilty driving it.

looks a whole lot better than one of mine, but for $3,500? The other one is in almost the same shape as that one and I only paid $400 and its runs.

I think it would be VERY handy in IC repairs and fabrication. just buy a core at some ducting company for $100 and solder (or is it brazing?) the ends on with this stuff.

Is it still under warrenty? They could just give you a new one.

Not really sure. I can only guess what is wrong. It could be a vacuum issue but I don't know if the 280zx with a vacuum or linkage controlled vent system. I have a jeep that had the same issue with a vacuum control, turns out it was a broken vacuum line in the engine compartment. I fixed that and then took out the little valve block that would activate/deactiviate the actuators and put a light coat of grease to make it seal better. It could also be a relay, the points inside could be getting corroded and letting less amps travel throught to activate the blower. A can of A/C recharger gas (don't know what else to call it) I've seen cost about $10-$20 at schutcks and pepboys. Just taking a shot in the dark.