AK-Z

Usually when I have the car sit for a long time, the positive terminal and the connection to the starter solenoid build up some corrosion. I always check those 2 things if the car doesn't start. The electricals may seem to have power but because of the corrosion there usually not enough amperage to spin the starter motor. broke the starter solenoid the other day after checking those 2 things just rebuilt it sence I had a maxima starter laying around.

agree. walk away. Mine is in worse condition than that, but since no one has done repairs on it previous of me owning it, repairs are much more easier to do. If you watched Mull's vids. Thats a good idea of what else you might find.

For got to mention all KA that I know of, you can't do the old fashion dizzy setup with the stock KA parts. Timing advance is setup buy the ecu. Might be able to use a dizzy from a L20 (2 litre Line 4) but don't take my word for it. IF you do that, then you would also need parts for the 94 and older KA like the oil pump and dizzy shaft and other stuff (not to familar with the whole pre 95 KA conversion). From looking at it it looks much like the datsun L6 engine.

Well I can help you with that. I had to find out the same thing since I280z is going KA and I only have a 95 KA. This is the diagram that I drew up for a MSnS as far as the dizzy goes. The 2 pins are for the transistor (ballast) and the 3 pin is for the 1* optical trigger on the internal COP disk.

IMO the auto trans is only good because of the simplicity. No electronics to deal with (except the reverse light). When I pulled mine, I only had to disconnect the reverse light, shifter linkage and the speedo cable:icon7:.

they used that stuff (lizard skin) on i think Horse power tv or the other muscle car show.

there was a wrecked ( i think it was) 240 with that setup in town up here that was abandoned. Unfortunately it was on private property. whole front was wrecked but the rear was fine. I was going to try to snatch it but it was in the middle of town and I know someone that got arrested for being on private property when he was trying to get parts off of it.

Probably because Poly tends to flex more before it starts to crack. I'm guessing using less hardener with epoxy will let it be a little more flexable but getting the proper minimum amount of hardener is going to be tricky, would be spending more than a few days to wait for it to cure and probably still be tacky, if not enough.

just get a couple of cans of rust zero. You only need a light coat. (I've been converted )

Crazy stuff. For body filling, have the door on the car, so you have reffereces to having everything even, then when you actually have it painted, have it off the car but have it shot at the same session. color matching is a pain.

Wow, I'm surprised at how it resembles a 240sx with the center upper piece. Nice

butt joint it. do a pass of spot welds grind and fill in with braze, it uses less heat. Only for non structural pieces like lower fenders and maybe door skins.

If you are going to convert to a 5 speed or even do a V8 swap, I suggest in swapping the the whole rear end (I mean WHOLE rear suspension/diff assembily, and half shaft assembily) to one from a 5 speed manual, its stronger that the automatic rear end. And yes they are not rare at all.

Cannon ball run 1 and 2. lol, first time i remember seing jackie chan in a movie. Well I don't plan on going to watch F&F3 in the theater because of all the people that I would assume would show up. They would annoy the hell out of me.

I don't think that it would be a good "welder," Unable to adjust for balanced flame. I think that this would be extremely well as a cutting torch.

I say get one with lower rear section rusted it your best bet. You can get a patch panel for that area pretty cheap.

I don't think you understand how the belts are placed. I should of clarified. crank has 3 grooves for 3 belts. 1.crank to alternator, alternator is adjustable to be the tensioner. 2.crank to AC pump, AC bracket has an idler as the tensioner. 3.crank to water pump to PS pump, the PS pump is the tensioner the water pump is located right above the balancer/crank. Running the belt from the water pump and alternator on the same belt isn't going to work because the belts that they use line up on different grooves on the balancer.

Not exactly hydrogen but looks very promising. Guy uses water to weld and to also power his car. http://www.yourdailymedia.com/media/1147691355/Water_Power

So how did you get the speedometer to work? Do they make mechanical guages or did you adapt a sender? This is assuming you are running a datsun tranny.

As some of you know I have a KA and am going to put it into my Z. People with SRs might be able to answer this question. The KA has 3 belts; one to run the alternator, the other to run the AC and the last one runs the water pump and PS pump. AC is easily removed. The PS pump is the problems because the same belt runs the water pump as well. I thought of running a shorter belt, but the PS pump is the tensioner for that belt. There are only 2 things I need to run on the belt, the alternator and the water pump. How did you guys address this problem?

Don't know either, but don't you think it weird that at most 2 people (the person in the shot and maybe the camera man) can hoist a 1000 lbs. to get it up there. If they did ask for help, wouldn't you think they would of liked to be in the picture? And what are they hanging it from?

That sucked...... Just kidding. Nice work. :mrgreen:haha