240Z Turbo

That is Walker's old car and I saw the dyno sheets, all 30 of them, from when Walker owned and dynoed the car. He was making in the 370 RWHP range with 17psi. So, I do not think it is unbelievable that the setup is still making the same power as before.

there are several calculators on the net to determine your dynamic compression ratio and yes, it is based on cam specifications, but also on the amount of boost you are running. Here is one calculator, but you can find many more: Dynamic Compression calculator

Yes, Tim had me pull out the physics book and thermo book to read up on the Otto cycle. I am determined to show you my side of the story. Just need to figure out what exactly dynamic compression means????

just purchased $450 worth of 321 for my new improved POS TT HEADER. That is only 1/2 the material needed. OUCH! www.exhaust.com

JWT designs their own cams. According to JeffP, design=theft. And according to JeffP, So, we know the following:design=trial&error design=theft design=calling Elgin cams for a proposed grind Please nobody go ballistic here, just intended this post to clarify the capacity to actually DESIGN a cam. I would hope in the end we can compile a list of cams used and the results so someone can atleast select a cam that will benefit their particular setup and not waste money getting 5hp.

I will start by saying I have NEVER said I know how to design a cam and my cam is based on info I have tried to gather. I also ran across some specs of a JUN turbo cam. I have heard ramp rates are critical so I tried to find a cam whose gross duration was close to the duration@.050" which would signify a quick ramp rate. Anyway, ran across WEB cams and Grind 155: WEB CAMS I had them spread the LC from 109 to 110.5 and it seems to work well. Unless you have the proper modelling software and specific information for a specific engine, you have NO WAY to properly design a cam. Guessing at specs and trial & error IS NOT designing a cam. I agree that there is no substitute for experience and that experience can get you in the ballpark, but that is as good as it gets. If I chose 100 grinds and 1 of them happened to work just awesome could I say I designed that cam? NO, I could say I god damn lucky! How many have gotten a cam and been unhappy even after Mr. Iskidarian or Mr. Crower themselves made the recommendation? My problem is this, when you say the word design and you have only guessed at specs based on experience and not modelled it based on your particular engine, ie. discplacement, flow, port configuration, reversion, yadayadayada, then to me, it is not cam design. JUST my opinion. I am going to be fortunate because TimZ is going to baseline his new motor with his ISKY stage I cam and then swap to the cam I am using to get some hard data as to the performance increase. So to end my story, I think the best we can hope for are a couple of different cams that can encompass a particular style of setup, power range and that are application specific.

I ran a 100shot down the track 4 times with no problems. If you have a built motor then it should not be an issue. I don't need the NOS to make power, but hell I can add another 75hp@wheels with the touch of the buttom. I can pull Harleys on the street at 10psi and pulled a Katana quite easily with 18psi and no nitrous. As far as the lame argument of building power into the motor that is bunk. If you look at all the big boys running in the street class they all run large turbo's, alot of boost and atleast 100-150 shot of nitrous. Why would you not want to add an easy 100hp for track runs only? I never hook up the bottle on the street and have yet to need it. As far as sticky solenoids, keep them away from the heat and service them as necessary. I always test my solenoids before using them to make sure they work and have a shut off switch for emergency. If your solenoid gets stuck it is because the power is not cut off or you have something lodged in the solenoid. It would have to pass through the filter so I suspect there is more to the story when you hear of someone having a stuck solenoid destroying the motor. For tuning a simple rule is tune the car on pump gas and if you want to run the NOS on top keep the same program and just add race gas. The extra octane will keep you from detonating if the NOS is jetted properly. BTW, the jets for 100shot are .051"(NOS)-.032"(FUEL) with 39psi fuel baseline(0psi boost) and that gave me 11.7:1 AFR. A good starting point.

I can get you that setup for cheaper than you can get elsewhere. TimZ just ordered a complete set of the tripple TB setup. http://www.twminduction.com/Home/Home-FR.html

You are speaking of dynamic compression and yes a turbo motor can meet or exceed a 12:1 dynamic compression ratio. However, turbo setups add more fuel in the 11.5:1 range on pump gas and we also retard the timing significantly to reduce the possibility of detonation.

Well, took off the intake manifold and the exhaust leak that got progressively louder in Alabama was both header halves cracking on the top where they merge into the turbo. South Florida Performance can duplicate the manifold from 1/8" steel and gaurantee it for 3 years for $900. The only way to do it right with stainless is to use merge collectors, but there is no room. I am considering selling the setup and turbo's and going with a single T70 turbo and fabbing the header with the proper merge collectors. Anyway, will make a good deal on the cracked manifold and dp setup if anyone is interested. I am going to sell the turbo's on the DSM forum.

It is not equivalent to any particular AFR, but you can say it is rich. I have found on my car that I can tune to .95V that would seem to be rich, only to dyno the car and find it to be 14.2:1 at full boost. I have learned that the O2 in some applications is useless under boost. EGT is the only reliable tool to use besides a wideband O2. GN gu

I am putting 450-475@wheels with raceprepped L24 rods.

the valve body mods allow the 4N71B to survive 500hp with a stock OEM rebuild on the tranny.

I posted the valve body mods on my website if you care to look. Valve Body Mods

Bernard, send me an e-mail with your # and we can discuss your options. I can also fax over the info that I have regarding the mods. BTW, I am selling my stuff very soon and it has less than 40hrs on the trans. It would seem to much trouble and not necessary to bolt one flexplate to another when a converter shop can just use the Datsun front cover so it is a direct boltup to our flexplate. After I do the swap, PTC will have all the specs and you just order the stall you want and it fits w/ no problems.

Greg Kring has a shop in Dallas, TX that will shorten and respline for about $100 per shaft. I think if you can search through axle books you can find an alternative shaft. You can have custom axles that are bulletproof made for less than the ford swap. Search your options 1st. At the very least do the normal CV swap 1st and see if it will survive.

I hope everyone realizes this will also allow the T-56 6-speed to also bolt to the L6. I believe I might have TimZ on board to do this swap in his monster turbo setup. If he does, I will provide all the info on the auto swap and he will provide all the info on what is required to make the T-56 work. The adapter and information will be in teh $150-$175 range. JTaylor, you will be very happy with the auto in the turbo car. You will find with the right stall you car will be tough to beat on the street and the turbo 350 has very little drivetrain loss.

is that the viscous unit or the clutch type lsd? The 88 300zxt SS model, all white w/white rims, had the Vicous LSD and that is what I use in my car w/cv axles.

I have the plate that goes between the engine and transmission. It has all the holes for the tranny bolts, starter, and cutout for the crank. I need to verify that the cutout for the crank is centered about the crank. Therefore, the gap on all sides should be the same. I just don't have access to a block to verify this. Any and all help is appreciated. BTW, I think this adapter plate will also allow L6 guys to boltup the T56 trans. Keep you updated.

I don't know, but you are more than welcome to go and find out. You will never get the specs for clutch packings in those various trannies. Also, some of those trannies are the E4N71B which is the electronic lockup trannies and you will need a controller for the tranny. I do not have the specifics, but level 10 sells a computer controller for that tranny for about $425. I am selling my tranny/flexplate/converter/driveshaft/front-diff-flange if anyone is interested as I am going to a turbo 350 so I can get a transbrake.

i like this posting to myself, it keeps me in touch with my...well the car guy in me. Anyway, found a company that is willing to make the adapters after I complete the 1st prototype. I will have to buy 6 of them, but it will use the 280zxt flexplate and stock starter with a turbo 350trans, powerglide, or 2004R. I also spoke with PTC(precision torque converters) and they will make a converter with the nissan front cover and the GM back cover. Price will be in the $400 range for the converter. Ahh, when you just put your mind to it..

Get a tranny from a 87 or later starion unit as the 88-89 conquest tranny required a few more mods. Yes, just a stock rebuild on the 4N71B and swap over the maxima bellhousing. Use the maxima flex plate and the starion converter(higher stall) and you are set. You will have to fab a mount and shifter linkage yourself. OLT, you do need to do some simple valve body mods to up the line pressure and shift firmness.

internally the 4N71B's are from maxima, starion, 300zx are almost the same. The reason for using the tranny from a turbo model is the snap ring groove in the drum is located such that more clutches can be packed into the drum. Knowing this, you can use the maxima tranny and use the drums from a turbo model. Todd Wheeler sent me a drum from a 300zxt and it allowed me to use more clutches than the Conquest unit. Anyway, with valve body mods and OEM clutches, the tranny will handle 500hp easily in a light 240Z. I ran my tranny for 2 years with 400+hp.

Just to update, this adapter plate will also for a powerglide or turbo 350 tranny to be used. I have decided to use the 280zxt flexplate so the stock starter can still be retained. I will have the adapter plate completed week after next.

Can someone with a spare motor laying around please provide me with a dimension. I need the dimension from the back of the block, tranny mounting surface, to the outside of the crank. Basically, how far does the crank stick out of the back of the block from the tranny mounting surface? Thank you for your help.