Here comes trouble

apply 100 applications of clear coat and use as a unique day bed

In the year 2020 a record price of $3,000. was paid for a dented Datsun 240 Z hood. Reportedly the used hood had been re-listed numerous times on eBay without sucess or found an actual buyer. The hood was bought by a japanese investor with 13 Hard Rock Cafes in China where he plans to display the hood for the masses due to it's history of a dent caused by Elton John and Cydi Lauper outside a San Francisco turkish bath. . The long time owner of the hood was quoted by Associated Press as saying, "the DNA samples from the area of the dent finally paid off ". A website known as Hybrid Z claims members have followed the re-sale of this hood for 20 years and believe the repeated listing with eBay totaled $341,632.53 over the last two decades and during the years was the subject of a murder investigation and 3 bankruptcy proceedings.

oil and antifreeze will not mix readily and the oil will find it's way and accumulate to the underneath of the radiator cap as a puss substance and will get blown out thru the overflow tube after driving. You may have had an "airlock" in heater hose from the heater core to engine block. I just burped my old 620 Datsun pick-up to get the hot water into the heater core and there was oil in the cooling system from a prior bown head gasket. You may have a very rusted up heater core with a replacement radiator or flushed radiator fix without anything done to the heater core by leaving the heater valve closed. Buy a flush kit and get some Electrosol dishwashing detergent and introduce it to the cooling system to wash the radiator and heater core. Coolant in the oil will appear as almost microscopic air bubbles on top of oil on dipstick.. Exhaust and coolant mixed will cause extreme radiator pressure and coolant will gurgle over with radiator cap removed with engine running. The warm Kentucky climate may have allowed this vehicle to be driven year around with only water as a coolant to cause what I suspect .............. this rust contamination now contained in the heater core..

I have both FK and Aurora monoball com 10 (5/8") bearings and upon initial inspection can find little difference in the tolerance of bearing and race of monoball..... both have a hole for grease by the introduction of a zert in the seperate housing or cartridge for the monoball bearing

No monkey spanking or mule roping with that hand....Infection is now your worst worry.. keep it clean with antibiotics. wound like that always found me breaking out in song ("Help me mama") and and dancing (jitterbug/watusi) ouch!

There is a "paintable" undercoating. For interior and heavy use application.. the bedliner would be preferable but underneath and tust prone areas... I would use the undrecoating unless you are building a show car. I use the paintable under coating in tree pruning and as a tree wound paint and roof sealer around vents.. very cheap stuff

The bearing housing from Stock Car Products will not work on the camber plate. Very frustrating..................................If I do not run on a fool's notion tomorrow... I may get the upper camber plates slotted.....Got a lead from Ocbarr on a CNC plasma cutter $20.00 set up and $5.00 per piece

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=879b.jpg&.src=ph My old silver Z had same problem of excess pressure that got worse. To keep it running I ran half a tank with gas cap off. Engine would hardly run after a few years. Never found the problem. When I turned the Z in to the GTO 250 project.. I removed the fuel tank and found it super clean.. blew the fuel lines etc etc etc. I suspect a fuel pressure regulator problem. I will eventually parts change until it runs right. This is not a normal pressure build up but something wrong in the FI fuel delivery. On my re-build of the 250 Project... I will install a fuel pressure guage which should be on every L 6 FI engine for diagnosis Here is the 250 GTO photos and somewhere in there is a pic of a fuel rail, pressure guage and 60 mm throttle body http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

Nut case miser!..... Lane County, Oregon has a similar story ofr a fellow named Gorden Elliot whose family also owned a Johnn Deere dealership. Ol Gordon died a few years back of lead poisoning from food he was eating that came in lead sealed cans.The canned food had to be over 75 years old. He owned numerous houses but could not live in them for the junk he stored there. He resided in camper trailers until they were loaded with junk. He spent his time dumpster diving and going to city council and county commission functions where he drove the politicians nuts. Gorden did not collect heavy chevy ... among generic other things he had a broken toilet bowl collection that would rival any in the world including Motel 6

I cut 5 3 1/2" wide pieces out of the 5" X 3/16" thick 8 ft. bar stock to make one template and the beginning of 4 upper adjusting camber plates. The holes are 5/16" and undersize for the later 3/8' adjusting slots. I will use a hand disc grinder to connect the 5/16" holes to make the three 3/8' slots. The hole where the nut and bolt is located in the yahoo photo will be where the monoball bearing housing will be placed. The Stock Car Products housings have not arrived and I really do not know the exact diameter required for the housing hole which will probably require a 4 jaw chuck and lathe to cut to diameter. I will leave the upper adjusting camber plates in the rectangular shape until the housing hole is cut and then I will cut a taper along both sides of the bottom end with the centered 2 holes................ I will save the template as is for rapidly centering holes in any further upper camber plates http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/a576&.dnm=4698scd.jpg&.src=ph

Chap ---you and your wife do not need anymore of that grief. Let the police handle it and let the chips fall where they land. The gun could get him into more problems than he bargained for. Maybe hard to do but cut him completely loose until he gets off the dope because until this happens... he is in a down hill spiral. It is sad that crap means more to the addict than love, respect,and honesty. For some addicts there is no turning back. No doubt my wayward relative up at Trail knows your grandson well. Some young woman on crank murdered her grand mother last night in Eugene with a kitchen knife. The girl was psychotic and delusional believing she was a rap star and the spouse of the Late Rick James. Judge Rasmussen sent a young man to 6 1/2 years in prison for home burglaries done to buy crank. The young fellow was in and out of jail about 8 times in the last 6 months and burglarized scores of homes in between.

Stock Car Products sell the FK brand com 10 (5/8 inch insided diameter) monoball bearing for less than $8.00 and most of these monoball bearings offered for sale by vendorsw are made by Aurora in Indiana USA. One of the links posted is selling a com 10 bearing for $25.00 with no vaseline. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rodend6.htm

Funny.... fender bender mayhem of the Hummer

rocket science engineering !!!!!!!!. about the only thing I recognize is the can of WD 40 on the cowl and a radiator hose with fill adapter. You will swallow your teeth at full throttle. Even Mr. Grump took notice

3/8 inch Elevator bolts are out because they come in about a grade 3 and I want grade 8. I will probably modify grade 8 fine thread 3/8 button heads Bought ($7.70) a 4 3/4 inch by 7 foot by 3/16 inch thick (scrap) mild steel bar stock for the upper camber plate. I want to make at least 12 plates Will get a quote on cutting... water jet....or plasma .. I can case harden the adjusting slots. (2) Monoballs and housings are in the mail ....."setup" for the water jet cutting is $50.+ and $10.-15 for each cutting...too mich for me.

Found the washer 1/8 inch thick with a 3 5/8 O.D. and 1 3/4 inch inside diameter for the lower camber plate that will require the 3 mounting bolts The X area to be removed (cut out).. Photo http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=a576&.dnm=c86fscd.jpg&.src=ph

I realze that There would not be much interest in KYB GR2's but the photo will show something very interesting. The shorter strut cartridges are VW Jetta GR2's but have a longer cylinder stroke than the 280 Z GR2 front strut catridges which tubes are longer but with shorter shaft length...go figure... The Jetta strut is the one you use on 2 inch sectioned 280 Z front strut tube and the 280 Z front strut cartridge is used on the rear sectioned strut tube.. I have seen Illumina's for sectiond 240 strut tubes.. and these cartridges have a longer stroke length for the rear... I have re-thought my 2 inch strut tube sectioning on my project 250 Ferrari kit and opted for camber plates which will at least drop the car at least 2 inches + or - with the stock length strut cartridges http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=fadd.jpg&.src=ph

I realze that There would not be much interest in KYB GR2's but the photo will show something very interesting. The shorter strut cartridges are VW Jetta GR2's but have a longer cylinder stroke than the 280 Z GR2 front strut catridges which tubes are longer but with shorter shaft length...go figure... The Jetta strut is the one you use on 2 inch sectioned 280 Z front strut tube and the 280 Z front strut cartridge is used on the rear sectioned strut tube.. I have seen Illumina's for sectiond 240 strut tubes.. and these cartridges have a longer stroke length for the rear... I have re-thought my 2 inch strut tube sectioning on my project 250 Ferrari kit and opted for camber plates which will at least drop the car at least 2 inches + or - with the stock length strut cartridges http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=fadd.jpg&.src=ph

If no floor jack...use a bottle jack with a wood 2x4 between the jack and door .................Kind of shakey but can be done wirh a little dexterity

with my Tomahawk project in shambles from vandalism and theft, I started the GTO project.....My biggest waste of time is doing all the things ... I teally do not need........................like rear disc brakes on a car with wire wheels.....I stopped myself just in the nick of time on that project. the GTO project http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

Monoball rattling thoughts: The monoball cartridge housing should be installed and welded to the top adjustable plate and the top adjusting slotted plate should have the camber adjusting slots. The cartridge housing should be machined with a remainder of a lip on the top to capture the monoball and prevent it from coming all the way thru the cartridge housing. The bottom of the cartridge housing should have a snap ring to hold the monoball in place. I assume upward force of the strut shaft will be a lot greater than downward force of the shaft. (this is where rattling could occur between the monoball and snap ring.....an additional thin snap ring could take up the slop and act as a shim if the ring was machined too wide in the housing.) The monoball housing should be made of steel..... Z car monoballs should have a 5/8 inch (com 10) inside diameter with the retaining nut shoulder filling the 5/8 " inside diameter. .....What I am describing above is a Carrera steel camber plate which places the monoball housing, adjusting slots and bearing on the top adjusting plate.... .....................Aurora in Indiana has been making some real tough monoball bearings for years as heim joints for the aftermarket auto market and are sold by Stock Car Products for about $8.00 a piece and locally for $10.... Rather than vegetate till Christmas, I have a camber plate project. Caster ???? It would be easier for me to add fog lights to the camber plate than caster rate it. My project camber plates wiil cost about $25.00 a corner and I can afford and make them..and should not be compared to the higher cost better units..The adjustable strut rods do not look that difficult. Here is my camber plate project page....http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106293

The rumor was you were cultivating "laubiests" for your new business !!!.....uh oh where is Tim Hepburn ???

Looks like you are off to a good start and operating on courage to do this. Insurance is fairly important. Could you not extend your health coverage thru your former employer with a COBRA plan and reduce health costs or catch a ride on the spouse's health coverage?....It may require 24/7@365 for the first couple years with sack lunches. It is the little things that will nickle and dime you to death ! ....Good Luck to you take care. (and always cross those t's and dot those i's with the guv'nmint)

I found a possible source for the monoball "cartridge" housing. At this time out of pocket expenses for the parts and materials look like an optimistic minimum of $100.00 or less for a full set of four camber plates.

Great application of the VR cheeks...Where did you get the fender side louvers....I had a couple pair similar from Origin Design/Ric Hammond that was asociated with John Washington in Arizona.... I have some real wide front fiberglass z fenders that I would eventually like to incorporate into a tlt front end for project 3.