ComicArtist

You can slam on s13 shocks, you just have to section the tubes. It's simply easier with the kit available for the Megan coils. Unfortunately, the kit wasn't around when I did my coils.

Lack of power steering can pose a problem for some people. Without aftermarket adjustment, you can't dial in a whole lot of caster on an S30, which affects the spinback rate of the steering wheel. Since plenty of caster is important especially in short wheelbase cars, the driver has to manually spin the wheel back. Some people can handle it, some people cant. More of a personal preference than anything. As far as the mcpherson struts, the lack of upper control arms in the rear pose the problem. While this too, can be addressed by the driver, it's not optimal. The lack of upper control arms means there's only two pivot points in the rear suspension, where the top of the shock bolts to the shock tower and where the lower control arm bolts to the subframe. Whereas in a situation with upper control arms, like a 240sx or Miata, there are more pivoting points. The point being, whenever the shock becomes compressed, when in a situation of hard cornering, negative camber is actually increased, which decreases the contact patch. However, with enough speed/roll, the contact patch can be compensated for. Bottom line is, any handicaps on a car can be compensated for with driver skill. However, you can't overlook the fact that some chassis aren't as optimal for drifting as others.

Right on! If I had to do it over again, I'd probably do S13 coils instead of Integras. Not a huge fan of 4 cylinder swaps, but looks good. Can't wait to see it run!

It won't fit. DSM turbos have different flanges. I believe the Eclipse uses a 16g on the 4g63.

I looked into doing these back when I was into 17"s. With enough camber and a properly stretched tire they'll tuck, but you wouldn't be able to go very low.

The main problem I see with a welded diff is A) going through tires like nobody's business can be unsafe IF you don't know what your'e doing in inclement weather. I've dailyed cars with welded diffs before. Make sure that you get it double plated by a GOOD welder. Don't trust anyone who is sub-par at welding, and I seriously wouldn't reccomend welding it without plates. If the weld is good enough, the input shaft or axle is going to break before the weld does. And off the line, a welded diff is faster. In my 1.6 Miata with a welded diff, I beat an AE86 GTS off the line every time with an open diff. I pulled on every shift, but throughout the powerband he pulled on me simply because of the power difference.

That's a lot better than any of the S30 drift videos I've ever seen. And that's definitely stock angle, he's just at full lock most of the time. Needless to say, the rain/v8 is helping him a lot, but it does take a considerable amount of skill to slide an otherwise stock S30 that well. I've slid my '78 quite a bit, on stock suspension and coils, at events and on off season practice sessions, and honestly it's NOT the best chassis for competitive drifting. The lack of angle, power steering, wheelbase, lack of suspension arms, and the MacPherson strut design throw it completely off the playing field. However, with enough driver skill and some mods, it can be made to slide decently. Props to the guys who made the video. Makes me want to weld up my diff.

I'm currently waiting on my 15x10's to come in from Diamond. Planning on running a 205/55 under what I believe are eBay flares, I'll let you know how it goes. I couldn't imagine running a 295 up front without going widebody.

I'm currently waiting on my 15x10's to come in from Diamond. Planning on running a 205/55 under what I believe are eBay flares, I'll let you know how it goes. I couldn't imagine running a 295 up front without going widebody.

Yes, there is a stand under the diff. I'll try checking it out while it's on the ground, that could just be the problem. Still, it seems like there shouldn't be that much play in the rubber. Either way, poly bushings are only like $20 so I might as well go ahead and replace them.

Gotcha. I didn't think there was supposed to be a gap. Guess its time to upgrade

I was under the rear end yesterday welding up a broken exhaust hanger, and noticed a gap in my subframe bushing. Is it supposed to look like that? Seems to me like there shouldn't be that gap at the bottom of the bushing. Any input?

While twins have a cool factor, every twin setup I've seen on an L28 is for just the cool factor only. You can achieve the exact same results with a moderately sized single. And you don't have to mess with running twin hotpipes, twin downpipes, twin oil/feed lines, twin coolant lines, and clearance. Now, if I had a RHD and a twin setup just laying around, I'd probably do it.

Got a new fender and did this to it today. My previous one was all wrinkly and dented, and was going to pose a problem when I get my wheels on.

My camber plates are finally done! I'm ready to be driving her daily.

^ Are those MSA flares or eBay? They look a little narrow to be MSA. Just curious because I have a set of eBay flares and I'm wondering how theyll fit.

When you take your engine completely apart, not bagging and tagging any of the bolts, and six months later you put it together and still know where they all go. And when you build an L28 and drop it in completely drunk and it runs perfectly.

^ I know a guy who did that with Integra coils. Couldn't weld them, since they had aluminum lower perches. I wasn't too crazy about the way it looked, but he used Grade 8 bolts and nuts, so I guess it worked for him. More pics of your car please.

Look up Mustang wheels. And they come in 4-lug, but I can't remember if they're 4x114.3 or if they're 4x108. Check out XXR 962's, they're affordable, but don't come any smaller than 17's. You'll also need a spacer to run them.

I didn't even watch the video and it sounds like glorified airbags

Alright cool! I just wanted to know where to check for electrical problems. I'll give it a try this weekend

The only sure way I know of to check injector pulse is to pull the rail while it's still plugged in, ad cranking it for a few seconds to see if they fire. However, I'll run a code check. I'm assuming there's a tutorial somewhere online about how to check for codes?

I did think of that, it's been sitting for a while, but I thought it would be odd if all six of the injectors were stuck. I was hoping to just check the relay or PCM before having to pull the intake again