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boodlefoof

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Everything posted by boodlefoof

  1. Add a bottle of GM EOS to the oil (if you haven't already) and re-prime. Double check to be sure everything is set up so that it will start right away (make sure you coil isn't wired backwards - don't ask...). Have a fire extinguisher handy, as well as some more coolant to top off the radiator. Then, fire it up and bring the rpms up (2500-3000) for 20-30 minutes to ensure the cam lobes wear in. I would then change the oil and "drive it like you stole it."
  2. Hi Andy, Sorry I can't be of help (I'm fabbing my own mounts and such), but I wanted to congratulate you on your purchase. I recently bought an '06 GTO LS2/T56 pull out from Schram too and they were a pleasure to deal with. One thing you will also need to consider (if you haven't already) is the electronic throttle pedal. Minor issue, but something to think about.
  3. Not an easy question at all. As stated above, lots of variables... What do you want the car to do, what sort of weight distribution on the car, do you have any design constraints, etc? Also, a well-designed "old-tech" setup (leaf springs for example) can work much better than a poorly designed "better" suspension.
  4. I don't know what you think of this, but if you're worried about firewall flex (which I personally would be), my personal opinion is that you're best bet is to cut out the current trans tunnel and build a backbone frame in its place. This would take some time, but would not be too difficult. What you want to do is transfer load from the strut towers to the trans tunnel and then on to the opposite corner's strut tower. At the same time you could re-design the tunnel to give you more room to reposition (move back) the engine when you do your swap.
  5. Now y'all have me remembering that old Clarence Carter song...
  6. Both of my folks grew up in Chicago, so I became a Bears fan early. There have been some dark years recently, but THE BEARS ARE IN THE SUPERBOWL!!! YEAH BABY!!! I bought my son (born about two weeks ago now) a little Bears onesie to wear just for today's game. My little linebacker in training.
  7. Fun quiz! I've never heard of a car with a spleen before though... let alone at least 25 spleens! That is quite the lymph system the Z has!
  8. LS powered F-bodies fall into the criteria except that they're a little over your weight preference.
  9. I've used green "floral foam." I put a writeup on my website at http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/Project_Racer-Zfiberglass.html
  10. When I was a kid living in Thailand, we and the neighbors would go out shooting pretty often. One neighbor had an M60 and we got that barrell white hot. Cool thing was that it had some sort of quick change barrell. You could flip the hot barrell off and put a new one on in just a few seconds! Then you're back in business!
  11. I agree with what has been said above. TH350 is a good tranny and can be had pretty cheaply. If you want to go with an overdrive, I believe the 200-4R to be a much better choice than the 700-R4.
  12. Looking good! You don't see too many of those around!
  13. paid $150 for my '73. Then again, it had nothing other than enough suspension to keep wheels on it and it was going to be sent to the crusher had I not bought it.
  14. I'm kind of skeptical of the 488 horsepower claim for that 406... With 9:1 compression and what looks like the specs on a Comp 270H cam it would put down a lot of torque, but I don't think it would be putting down 488 horsepower. I'm also curious why they have a picture of the Falconer V12 on their site. Are they a Falconer/Brammo distributor? I couldn't find these products for sale.
  15. Coleman has good customer service, good prices, and their sales folks know their stuff. I agree on using the plain steel tubes rather than the swedged steel. You'd hate to have one of those break!
  16. Thank you violacleff. When I first bought it I drove the Camaro daily. But since then I've fixed it up enough that I've turned it into just a fair-weather cruiser. I decided that it would be better to buy a beater to drive daily and have the Camaro for fun on the weekend. If you like the Fury, you might also want to check out the Pontiac Tempest. I'd guess 15mpg is probably about right for most V8 muscle cars of the era. I was knocking down about 15 in the Camaro with a small block, Th350 transmission and a 3.73 rear gear.
  17. I've seen it happen too. At a shop I used to bum around at, a guy (customer) had run his car with open manifolds for a half hour break in and then shut it down. When the head came off, one of the exhaust valves had a big crack in it.
  18. The Fury hasn't started skyrocketing in price yet like many of the other cars of the era. A lot of people say that old cars are unreliable. I have a '68 Camaro and it is pretty reliable. Sure it has some interesting quirks, but that is part of the experience. If you don't make a lot of modifications and you keep up with maintenance, there is no reason that it should be any less reliable than a newer car. In fact, due to the relative simplicity of the older cars there is less to potentially go wrong. As for fuel economy... that is part of the price you pay for a cool car with a 440 big block. Sure, you could swap in an overdrive and do a little better... but you're probably looking at sub-20mpg without really trying to improve economy.
  19. Thanks Mike. I heard that D&D had a relocation kit, but I couldn't find anything about it on their website. Might have to give them a call.
  20. Hey guys, I'm mocking up the LS2/T56 combo in the spaceframe and realize that the shifter is going to be a bit too far back. I need to move it forward a bit or else I'm bumping my elbow on the rear bulkhead. The T56 is out of an '06 GTO. The shifter sits way back on a pedistal over the tailshaft. It fits in a ball/socket joint on this pedistal. Then, it connects to a second ball/socket a few inches forward of that (about 3'') via some bracketry. When you move the shifter, the second ball/socket moves in unison. Does anybody have experience relocating the shifter on a T56? It seems as though I could eliminate the bracketry and pedistal and simply place the shifter where the front ball/socket it, thereby moving it forward 3''. If I would prefer to move it further forward than that if possible though. Any ideas? My search (move shifter, relocate shifter) didn't turn up an answer. Thanks folks!
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