boodlefoof

Ditto. You can get a complete LS1/T56 combo with all accessories and computer for about $4k nowadays.

Adding wheel spacers up front will increase your tire scrub, which will increase steering effort. It will not change your camber (assuming the spacer doesn't flex!).

Santa (or at least the delivery guy) is bringing me an LS2/T56 combo! Yeehaw! Now, I can only find the time to put it into the Z...

Every time I see pics of this car it makes me smile. Incredible work.

Yup, that's one way to do it! Although when the spaceframe is done I think it is going to be around 325 pounds.

I would (and did) go with the Millermatic 175. I test drove a few welders and found that the 220v just welded better. It struck a more consistent arc, and when welding thicker stuff it really had the heat to do a good job. With the infinite voltage control, I have welded as thin as 24ga with it and as thick as 1/4''. It works like a champ. The 110v welder could do 1/4 inch if you properly prepare your joint (make a 45 degree bevel at the edge to thin it to about 1/8'' and weld in two passes). As for plugs, The MM 175 uses a plug like the second picture above. I'm not sure if a 20A breaker is going to cut it though. I'm running mine on a 40A breaker. Good luck!

Hey guys, I found these links that I thought you might find interesting. I don't know if they've already been posted. 1) This page has a huge table of Cd for tons of different cars! http://www.mayfco.com/tbls.htm 2) A neat page for how to measure Cd on your car. http://www.geocities.com/plymouthsd1950/testing/dragforces.html

If you opt for home delivery, you can expect to pay a lot of extra $$$. If you can pick up at their regional facility, you can save at least $100.

At first I thought it was just a TBI setup made to look like a carb. I'd be interested to see some user feedback when it has been on the market a little longer.

When I saw that twin TB setup, I was thinking a pair of turbos would look nice feeding into those!

Jon, you forgot to add that you also need some iron testicles! We'll see if I have them when the time comes to give it a try. I'm hoping to hit 200+ in mine when it is finished. Check out the Electromotive 280ZX. Article says they made it to 196. http://zhome.com/History/Electramotive/DevTrubo.htm

If you're talking about a non-roller cam, add a bottle of GM's Engine Oil Supplement ("EOS") to your oil when you're first breaking it in.

I think it looks pretty nifty.

It looks like the spindle doesn't have provision for an upper control arm, but rather uses the half-shaft in a dual role (shaft/control arm) like the Jag IRS. For all of the bling, I'd rather have an unequal-length A-arm setup.

I used Terry's method of fiberglassing as well. I put a writeup on my website (try back later if you get an error message... I have limited bandwidth). http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/Project_Racer-Zfiberglass.html

Yeah, I really need to start paying for my site... the free version gives me limited bandwidth and it will show that sign when too many people have visited it in too short a time. It usually comes back up in an hour or two.

Not sure if mine will be helpful to many, but here is what I did: http://www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/Project_Racer-Zsuspension4.html The rear track width is going to be about 62''. The rear axle housing is 59'' from end to end using late big Ford housing ends and a centered pinion.

Sounds neat, but It seems like this would really reduce "pedal feel." I personally like to be able to modulate braking myself and not rely on an electric motor to do it for me. Soon enough I suppose cars will just be driving themselves and we'll all just be passengers...

Thanks for the link Sven. I've been looking at a similar product called "Percy's Speed Glass." Unfortunately, work has been very busy and I haven't had time to tinker with the car in a few weeks. It will still be awhile before it is time to address the glass issue. My next step is to bend up the overhead portion of the frame in my new tubing bender, and then (hopefully) get an engine and trans so I can finalize the dimensions for the trans tunnel to get that squared away. I want to try and get as much of the mechanical and welding work done as I can before I start putting the body on (so it doesn't get in the way).

I have heard good things about them, but haven't had the need to try them myself yet.

Wow, they're re-running that article? I remember first seeing that article about 6 years ago in a special edition of CHP entitled "Engines" or something of that sort. Nice little engine though!

Yeah and the complete heads are less than $400 each too! Awesome! I need to buy me an LS2 before they decide to up the price.

Major vacuum leak?

"I fell in to a burnin' ring of fire..."

I've always heard the axles you are referring to called "gun drilled."