alexideways

Would it be useful to weld a, let's say 6" pieces of tubing to the rotating assembly and build the part bolted to the car out of smaller diam. tubing so the stands can rotate a bit in relation to the chassis when going over rough surfaces? I'll need to pull the damn thing outside to soda blast the car.

Thanks Bill good idea. Could do something like that along with j/y floors or SUV roof.

Nice! Really nice. Keep us posted. How's the dash comming along?

Thanks guys but, I don't plan on relocating anything for now, simply put, what I whant to do is cut the top bar only, box the cutted area, weld in an insert (nut) weld some tabs at the end of my original bar and bolt it back in place so it can be removed when I drop the RB in and for furhther engin swaps like when I'll switch to my hopfully one day built RB30 block. Will that be stiff enough? I also plan on stitch/spot welding the whole shell while it's on the BBQ.

Wow, I can't wait to see Optimus Prime in "real".

:lmao:Are you caling me a KID Jon???

Thanks Jon. I wonder why this tread did'nt caught my attention when I searched, maybe I was allready sleeping when I asked. Anyways thanks for bringing it to the top, I actually saw your post in the other tread before I saw your answer here. Did you build something simillar for the pivot point. Have any mesurements?

Thanks Ledphoot, never tought of that, very good idea.

No but, as things start rolling I might start breaking things more often. Plus most of the time I'm alone to do this so, this would help me not swing the tranny in the windshield. Allmost happened when I took the L24 out.

HAHAHAHA!!!! Same as Paul, I just posted a question about how to make sure the roof does'nt touch the ground. Thanks.

You could also drill it in it's center, heat it red hot then pour a bit of water in the hole, since you drilled, the metal around the hole will have more room to contract. Since metal allways contract more than it expanded, it should come loose by itself. What really helps in z-ya's technique is the heat from the weld itself.

Question: what is the best way to mesure the rotisserie's hight so the top of the car does'nt touch the ground when flipped over or for it to NOT be so off centered that it'd make it impossible to rotate it? Also, I'm looking at using some used BMW hubs and bearings for the rotating parts so, I was wondering if I could use a brake caliper activated by a lever on a master cylinder to lock it in place?? Maybe on at each end to make sure??? Thanks.

Thanks for the 100th time in the past week Ernie. You are one helpfull guy. That's all I needed to know. If I ever go to California, I'll drop you a call and beer and dinner'll be on me. Edit: Or if you ever come to eastern Canada.

I asked cause, I've seen many cars with a bolted rad. support, like most german cars. Audi/BMW that I know of.

Hi, I'm about to redo the body on my car, the floors are not too bad but, I'd like to rplace them while I'm there. I know that using flat sheet metal for floors is'nt really good for torsional rigidity but, this guy did it and it looks good. My question is, could I use flat sheet and weld on some sort of webbing that I could fabricate out off 1/4 steel rods or it would'nt be enough? One other thought here, could I try to go to a junk yard and buy some floors from a fairly new and bigger car and use those to cut the desired shape in???? This way, I could a have factory like structural imprint in the floors. Thanks.

Hi, after removing the engine in my car, I tought it would simply be easier if there was no rad support. My question here is, would it affect structural rigidity if I were to cut it off, add a bit at both ends and bolt it to the car after for easy access when needed? Thanks.

Thanks Yasin:2thumbs:

you replied to an 2 years old tread... J/K

Nice!!! I bet if you installed everything with 1/4 turn fasteners you could be done with the t-belt in 20 lol.

Wow, that's alot of piping and heat shielding, would'nt want to be the guy stuck with diagnosing a problem in that system:willy_nil, thenagain, if you designed it or helped in the process you must know what you're doing.

Thanks Prox.. -What are the effects of this on the turbine on the long therm? ________________________________________________________________ I'm pretty sure I'v seen somewhere that the Gr.B Audi used the compressed air from the compressor to drive the turbine when the pilot lifts the throttle. _______________________________________________________________ But, the guy I was refering to in my original poste really had an injector in his exhaust manifold right before the turbine, he said, when it shoots alchool in there with the heat of the exhaust, it just explodes and spool the turbine very quickly.

Very nice:2thumbs: You could even install a small bunk bet in there for the long trips LOL. Your shifter seems like it's goin' to exit right in front of the dash's center section, I think you'll have to fab an extention to the shifter otherwise you'll be skinning your knuckles with every 1-3-5-R shifts. No?? Keep us posted.

And what about diverting the BOV into the exhaust right in front of the turbine to keep it spooled??????? I think that's what they used to do in Gr.B ralliing. But, then I guess the ECU would go nuts :willy_nilcause, it suddenly sees full lean conditions:confused:

Hi, question, I went to a tractor pull the other day and asked a driver how come he has fire coming out of his 32 exhaust tubes even under full throttle. His answer was: Cause, we dump raw fuel in the exhaust right before the turbine to have them fully spooled right away. My first tought was OMG, those turbos mus'nt last too long but, then I remembered something I saw on junkyard wars a few years ago where they had built a jet engine out of a turbo. My questions here are: 1- has anybody here ever seen that on a car? 2- could the turbo stand up to this kind of heat?????????? Thanks.

Could also be for a multi-fuel powered vehicle??????? I'm really just shooting ideas here, I really don't know what I'm talking about here.