alexideways

No prob. Take care and welcome to hybridZ. You have one truly unique hybride.

Do you have a test light or a multimeter? A cheap analog meter is best for this as it picks up quick bursts of current beter than a numeric one. plug the negatve lead to a good ground and the other one on the plus side of the coil, the wire that comes from the dizzy. Have someone crank and check if the needle moves or the test light flashes, if not, you don't have power going TO the coil.

Well, you have to leave the coil in the car, just unplug the coil lead at the distributor and hold it to a ground, then have someone crank, if you see a good spark, you'll know the coil is good and the problem lies further down the line. You should also check your gap between your points and dwell angle. If the points are black and pitted, you should replace them (about $20 and 1/2h. worth of work) These things don't last to long and that is why I installed an old GM V8 igniter with a 280Z dizzy, I was tired of adjusting and replacing those little bastards. EDIT: Oups, I just reread your poste and you state that you replaced the points and all so, just check the gap, a good feeler gage if you don't have a real one is the thickness of a matchbook.

Some other tricks to weld when you can't see what you are doing: First: when you don't have a clear line of sight to the joint but, can see the back of the panel, what I like to do is to drill a very small hole at each end of the joint then, you go on the other side and you link the 2 holes with a scribe mark. Once this is done, you put the gun on the joint and you, being on the other side, watch for that red dot that the puddle will make on the back side of the panel and you move that red dot along the mark you made trying to keep it straight on the line. Voilà , blind wellding. If the dot becomes glowing red, let go or you'll burn trough. When you can see the joint but you can't get the helmet close enough to see when it's flipped down, I like to take a mirror and put in in the hole instead of trying to cram my head in there. It takes a bit of practice but, if you can shave, you'll be able to pull it off.

They make extended collars that are cone shaped, take the longest you can find and grind it down to the desired open end diameter. For welding overhead, the easiest way I found (I was a welder for 4 years before I flipped out and went into mechanics) is to turn down the heat a little bit so the metal will be less prone to "drip" then you'll want to do a little back and forth movement with the wire, this lets the metal cool a bit as you go a bit further and then you come back over it to fill what's left so you don't have any crevases on each side of your weld. I'm talking about a small movement, here 1/8 at most.

Easiest would be to unplug the coil lead at the distributor and hold it near a good known ground with a screw driver and a rag around the handle. DON'T lean against the car. If you have a spark there, the problem lies between the coil and plugs. Do you have EFI or carbs, do you have points/break or electronic ignition??

Is it agricultur related??? Would it be to move around those big bundle of wheat??? And by the way, I hate you for having an electric lift at home. j/k.

It'll just kill what little rigidity the S30 chassis has. just my $0.02

Do you have power at the coil???

Well, It works with a potentiometer, the more the air pushes on the flap, the more or less resistance you'll get depending on your car's setup. The more resistance you have, the more the voltage will drop and this is how the computer interprets the signal. let's say idle is 5V and full throttle is 1V., the more you push on the gas, the more the engine needs air and the more the flap will move inwards. The more the flap moves the more the voltage drops and the computer will read ex. 2.5V as half throttle and so on.

Exactly how I pictured it when I posted that Corrado

Was my pleasure to knock this MoFo out.

Check these out. http://parts.search.ebay.ca/electric-water-pump_Parts-Accessories_W0QQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfgtpZQQfmmdZQQfmmkZQQfposZh4c3h2QQfromZR2QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQfyhiZQQfyloZQQlopgZQQmppfqyZelectricQ20waterQ20pumpQQsacatZ6028QQsadisZ200QQsaprchiZQQsaprcloZQQsargnZQ2d1QQsaslcZ3QQsbrftogZ1QQsofocusZunknown

No hard feeling I hope, it was a j/k.

Damn, the guy took the listing off. I was so ready to give him those 2 millions I offered.

Cool, I like the stretched look.

Very nice, looking forward to see it painted. Keep it up.

Do I hear 2.5 king grands?

Ho yeah!!!!!!!!!

Thanks Ernie, you always come up with great ideas and solutions. I guess something similar to what you've done with that hood, could be done with a buldge from an first or second gen. eclips/talon. They're a bit more common than FREE opel hood lol.

So, his reserve was $14,500 anybody wants to up the ante?

I'm in.

So, does this make it a "General Zee" LOL???? But, was'nt the general a 69'?

They do look nice for round lights but, it's not my cup of thea for a Z car. What are they from, Corvette?????

Thank you very mutch, you and your car are allways a good source of info. and inspiration.