alexideways

Hi, I was wondering, if there's a site where I could punch in my ECM part# to know what exact car and year it came from? I'm trying to determine if my engine is from an R33 or 34 cause, I have only one relay in my harness but, my ECM connector does'nt look like the pic. of the pin out of the R34 so, I'm a bit confused. Edit: My part# is 23710 13V00 if anyone knows how to read that properly. When I checked some sites that showed how to read P/N's, the first two digits "23" means, electrical section 4: starter...

Wow, I'm from Quebec and don't even know where that is. You have anything against separatists??? J/K. I speek french, maybe you can try put in "words" what yoou hear and I'll try to figure out what she' sayin'

That's John Dallenbach's car, it's said to be costing in eccess of $500 000 U.S. This is one of the cars that had me looking at an audi line 5 engine for my Z.

Thanks for all the design ideas guys.

The thing with lead is that you don't put much heat in the panel as opposed to building weld on a thin sheet.

What? I used to work in an agricultural equipment manifacture, they also built Steel structure buildings and for the thick metal it was flux core all the way. To weld REAL flux core, you still need Co2 to get good blending and spreading of the added material and lots of heat usually above 34V. Those little cheap units are designed for the handy men who do small repairs, so they don't have to buy gas and the hassle of dragging a bottle around. They don't make good looking beads but if you're careful you can have good enough results.

If you read the posts on rustoleum carefuly, you'll note that most everybody who's done it, agrees that you NEED mineral spirits. Mail boxes ar'nt wetsanded though. The guy who posted the explicit how to on the mopar site say that the blue beetle that he painted for his dad a few years ago is still shiny and that he even repainted a fender 3 years later and you could'nt tell wich one. I'm in no way paint expert but that's what HE said.

Yeah, lead was used, in the old hotrod days, to blend body panels together or fill low spots. Used to be bigger sedans, they called them lead sleds. I was told that IF you can do it right it's very durable but do one little thing wrong and the thing will not stick properly and can even fall off later on.

Is sugar corrosive LOL?

That's the first transformer I've had but, mine was metallic blue.

The boat cluster could be integrated into something like this:

Sorry, being in Canada, I tend to think in Km/h, our limit on higways is a 100 wich is 62Mph, so 140 is not that mutch since cops here tend to tolerate up to 119.5 Km/h. LOL

Well I'd say that pased 140 I's more a motivation value, the higher the needle, the higher the price of the ticket so, you can decide wether you can aford it or not and prompt you to go floor it instead of salming the brakes.

I'm going to ask the question on the other tread.

Cool porsche gauges too. Wonder if it would easily adapt to our cars http://cgi.ebay.ca/Porsche-924-Water-Temp-Gas-Gauge-Etc_W0QQitemZ320062900240QQihZ011QQcategoryZ34206QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/Porsche-924-944-Oil-Pressure-Gauge_W0QQitemZ320062900226QQihZ011QQcategoryZ34206QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.ca/SHARK-6-GAUGE-PROGRAMMABLE-STREET-ROD-GAUGE-SET_W0QQitemZ230067810872QQihZ013QQcategoryZ80739QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I wonder if these are any good, they kind of look like old race car gauges. Rated at just 140 though.

I was looking for gauges and came across this, I admit it's a bit far fetched but I'm sure with a bit of imagination someone could make something cool out of it. Or I'm just plane Ol' crasy. http://cgi.ebay.ca/boat-gauges-dashes-new-set-teleflex-and-switches_W0QQitemZ260068083957QQihZ016QQcategoryZ50437QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

So, that thing is not necessary?

I allways had good results with the cheapest ones I'd go with nickel, be carfull to buy the same heat range as your original plugs this could have been why your super plugs did'nt work so good.

No!!

Did you bench bled your master before installing it???

Well, I'd make do with an chevy indy engine just as well.

I heard the best brand is the cheap copper ones at wallmart and autozone something like autolite but I'm not sure.

NGK copper

Anyways those muti-electrodes spark plugs are just a scam cause, whatever happens, electricity allways take the shortest path to ground so only one electrode is really in use a any given time. The only advantage that I see is the fact that once one of the electrodes gets worn, the current will jump on the next easiest path thus augmenting the life of the plug. Experts correct me if I'm wrong.