alexideways

Witch in turn provides twice the amount of air molecules available to snatch away heat from that heated wire wich in turn will cool down more and need more voltage to keep it at it's target temp.. The ecu will add the correct amount of fuel accordingly, without knowing if the voltage signal increase was due to flow or density augmentation. Maybe the name mass airflow is missleading, maybe it should read more like "mass and airflow sensor".

I slept on the idea and it still looks good to me but one concern came to mind. The fact that the mounts, since the diff is a short nose, needs to be extended forward, would'nt that create some kinde of a lever between the diff. and the original mounting point? And would'nt that just add to the torque multiplying effect of a diff. that just want to push up with all it's might? What I mean is that the mounts themselfs are probably strong enough to hold the diff. in place but, maybe the hard points on the chassis itself are'nt strong enough and could get torn off. I came to this conclusion after reading Mr. jmortensen's sticky on diffs. FAQs. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 I also noticed in the same post, that a desing similar yours has been used but, the guy solved the leverage problem by linking the two parts of the mounts with a lenght of tubing and from that transvers "link", there is another lenght of tubing that goes upward to a plate bolted to the bottom of the tunel. I guess he probably reinforced the tunel too as the sheet is prety thin in this area. So, tell me what ya all think.

But the dash!!!!!!!!

Verry interesting concept, I like it. I take a look into that too.

I say IT sould'nt even be allowed on public roads, it's just unsafe.

Hi, anybody have rears sump pan dimentions? Or if you put it side by side with the original one, does it have roughly the same dimentions? I'm asking cause, I need to start mocking up the engin in the bay but I don't have my pan yet so, with the dimentions, I'll either build one out of cardboard or I'll take the original, cut the flange, flip it end to end and tack it back together. Thanks.

That low? Well not that it's afordable but, considering what it is and having seen TODA and O.S. Gicken prices, I tought that it'd be way more than that. It's good to know that if I ever want one, I just have to sell the everyday car and not a kideney.

I don't have any info but, I hope you know you're looking at close to if not 5 digits price tag.

Well, as I mentioned above, the first one I built was meant to be temporary so, I did'nt really had durability in mind when I built it. I took to pieces of angle iron and ground the sharp edge flat, I welded 'em back against back and it held fine for a few runs but the moron had a big grin on his face and could'nt let go. Afterwards while checking for an exhaust leak in the back I noticed that the piece had started to crack and twist, the welds held just fine, it's the angle iron itself that cracked cause I probably ground them to thin. Now, since the concept seem's to do the job correctly, I decided to look further into it and I think I'm just going to use a piece of drive shaft between two flanges. I'll post the results when we brake it or after it holds long enough, we decide that it's NOT going to break. Keep in minde that this car as a stock L28T with more boost like 10psi or so.

What a f*#king waste of a GOOD Z, time, money and fabrication skills. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- No!!!, put it on e-bay, I'll buy it for 50$ cause no one else will want it, chop the bike parts ang graft a new tubed front end, keep the v8 and top it off with marguen shoukaï F/G body parts and I'll have a pretty clean v8z for cheap. LOL

Well, today, while working on the exhaust, I noticed that the damn thing has started to crack so, since it worked pretty good, we'll build another one out of a tubing section instead of the angle iron I used the first time because it just hapened to be there and we'll see how this holds up to abuse.

Another idea that I had, if you decide to go the helicoil route. pack a clean rag with bearing grease and stuff it in the chamber trough the exhaust port, this way the shards will get trapped in the greasy rag and once you're done, just pull the rag out.

Take some "step by step" pics as you go along.

The problem with this is that it has been done so many times on the tuning seen, your car is gona be instantly tagged as a rice can.

Well, I did just that on a friend's car, it was supposed to be a temporary fix so we can move the car under it's own power but, he could'nt resist and whent out for a road test, he said he kicked the s*it out of it and everything held fine. I took two industrial pulleys of unknown origin that he had laying around, I took those cause they were thick and allready circular and about 4" diam. Then I took 2 pieces of angle iron, mesured by eye, ground the corner flat so I could put them back to back to form a simetrical + shape, welded them together, with one pulley at each end, drilled both pulleys according to the diff/shaft patern and hooked everything together.

Now THAT's what I'm talkin' about. Tiger stripes in the blue camo sheem could be made to look nice if one lays the sripes at the right places as not to mask the car's lines.

I meant to post these pics. in your camo... paint tread so, I'll post this one at the same time.

Not really "URBAN" assault but, with urban colors and street tires it could be a definit head turner kind of a postapocalyptic all dutie vehicle.

Yeah that is right, the problem is not guns, it's people who use them.

Verry nice, could be a fun weekend escape vehicle. Just trow everything on the big ass roof rack and run for the wood, keep pushing untill you can't go any deeper without cutting down threes and set camp. Have a nice peace and quiet and come back on monday. HAAAAAAAAAAA!!!! That's life.

If what, was meant to be sarcastic? Anyways, no srcasme on my parts, sorry if I made you feel that way.

Wow, that is some nice craftsmanship, if I see correctly, you brung the frames inside the car?

Where did you buy these books, especially the second one? 1001 circuits, look's exiting.

I tought of something like that too, would look awsome. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- One other thing I tought would be the ultimate urban camo was: Get a good airbrush artist, paint the car light grey and have him texture it to look like asphalt then you paint one full and one dotted yellow lines running the lenght of the car and VOILÀ, cops won't see you before your on them. "Yep this is car 104, calling 116 we have an unidentified piece of verry fast moving tarmac heading your way, please investigate, 10-4"