alexideways

This is entirely true cause, the current can go trough the coil side of the relay and attract the plunger but, if the plunger is spotted end pitted from the elctrical arc that goes trough it the current wo'nt go trough. A good way to check this is to put the coil side to 12v. and ground and then check for resistance on the actuated side of the relay, if you have anything more than a few milliohmes, it's shot. Try also checking voltage drop and continuity between you starer relay "actuated terminal" and "the ignition swith terminal on your starter" to see if it's not broken. You also xan try having someone knock on the starter with a small hammer while you'r cranking, the starter could be stuck inside or so dirty that the current can't jump the brush/inducer gap. If this do'st work, give me a mail, we'll check other options.

I was thinking about a proximity detection device where the car can start only when the owner is in the car kind of a passkey system but you could embed the chip in piec of jewellery or other. Then you only need an push to start. You could even go one step further and have the system unlock the dors when you get near.

Hun!!! Nice and clean, good job, guess you could do that with stainless to keep it from rusting again. So, no need to go trough all the trouble tiing to get a special order. Here is a dumb idea, cut the old valance out, fill and smooth with BONDOOOOO!!! and then you have a mold. Lay some carbon sheets over this, a little resin, a refrigirator compressor and bags, a big oven and there you have a carbon fiber rear valance that is both light and will never ever rust.

Just an idea here but.... I work at BMW as a mechanic and was looking at a baddly smashed 740il and noticed that some of the allu. body parts ar'nt wellded but glued together and the most surprising thing was seen on the crossmember, who have both bonding techniques on it, most of the welds were cracked but where it was glued, it was still perfect so, here is the idea: Glue the damn thing together, with some kind of torque plates on top and bottom and cams installed, to keep it sraight while it's driing. I'll checke if I can have access to this special glue.

Humm, I just reread my reply and noticed that I had shot myself in the foot, the "E" really stand for ELECTRONIC "INJECTION" and not ignition, I was probably tinking about something else at the time. Sorry.

How about this, I used to be a welder and work in an agricultur machinery plant, I remember that the sheet metal parts that were curved and had holes in it were manufacrued in many sreps, 1rst: it was put in a press to stamp out the holes, after in another to shape small areas indents and then in a final one to give it the actual shape of the part. My idea here is to call Tabco and ask for a special order where the employee would take the part directly to the shaping press skipping the holes and indentation steps, ther you have a stock smooth pabel that will fit perfectly.

I`v seen some old Suzuki Swift Gti seats at the scrap yard the other day and the are small since they`r from a small car, and the look very good, and seemed supportive enough when I sat in them.

Well, thank you very mutch Owen, it`d be nice but not really nececary cause I`m used to work on Beemers everyday. Great idea too Rubin, now that I whent to the scrap yard and seen one, I think that with a little fidling it could be fuctional and look good.

Could be interesting but, since I live in Canada, the doubble shipping would get expensive.

Well, the "RB" stands for: whatever whent trough the engeneer`s mind at the moment as do`s the "SR"20. The "D" Stands for DUAL cams. The "E" stands for ELECTRONIC ingnition.

thank you very mutch Owen, I`ll definitely take a looke into it. Was it a straightforward bolt-in mod. or was some fabrication needed?

Hi, has anyone ever had sucsess in installing alternative light/flasher/wiper switch, if yes, what car did it came from. Thanks.

HaHa, they don't existe, thant is why I'v been looking all around for JDMs with no luck. Anyways, thanks to: BayAreaZT, Boobala and Arne for this info and pics.

Thanks a lot BAZT, that is what I'm looking for. Now, anyone has pics of the JDM tails???

Woha!!!!! Realy nice crafsmanship.

Well Dave, I think everyone here would know that the RB30 was an Australian issue only so, THAT is where it comes from. The city is Perth and postal code is:6030 if this is what you meant.

Hi, do's enyone know of any shipping buisness that could help me bring in an rb30 that I'm currently looking at on ebay???? Any info is welcomed. But, please do not turn this post into a "you should or should not use the rb30 because BLAHBLAHBLAH" My minde is allready made.

As I said earlier, EFI tanks work under vacuum. The reason for this is the ECU monitors vacuum under specific conditions an can determine if there is a leak in the "CLOSED CIRCUIT" EVAP system. If ECU sees Atmospheric pressure, there is a leak. The PSSSSHHH sonf you hear is the expended gas "vapors" that comes out when you "open" the "closed circuit".

People plug the "vents" that are used for EVAP on a OEM not frankensteinized, 20 years older than the engine car. EVAP works by constantly checking depression in the tank, if it reads athmospheric pressure, the check engine light comes on and it can mean either thing, 1-Your gas cap is'nt tightened properly(most common problem) or 2:you have a leake somewhere in the closed circuit EVAP system.

Just thinking here, even if you don't sell the tranny mount, I have a solution for the sagging tranny problem, at least you can fix the one you'll make for yourself, just use channel instead of flat stock, it'll give it way more than enough strenght.

I am looking into '89-'94 240sx hb euro replacement taillights for my 240z roadster project Do'nt you think the angle towards the center of the H.B. tails will look odd on the Z?

Well, I know you can add pearl of whatever color to your clearcoat instead of the base coat. when the light hit the curves of the car, it gives the effect of "gas on water" of the color you chose. I used to have a "kawasaki green" VW Rabbit with a darker green pearl added to the last layer of clear. You only add it to the last coat, this way, if you have to repaint some dammage, instead of trying to match the paint, you just lightly water sand off the first layer and spray the whole car again.

If you have a first half of 73 car, like mine, it has the small bumpers, do'nt know about the catbs though cause, mine had dgv 32/36 fitted when I bought it. After the second half of 73, they came with the bigger 260 style bumpers. The rest of the car is entirely the same. + The weight issue brought up by ON3GO, is due to those bumpers and the carbs to are heavier.