alexideways

Well, I think the kid has allready made up his mind as he's talking about getting the harness back from Mc stealers. The thing is, if you sre willing to wait, you can get away quite cheaply. You see, i have 4 RB30 bottoms comming my way, 3000$ with shipping to my door, (I'll sell 3, won't cost me a dime. Heck, I'll maybe even make money out of it.) I RB25 vari. cam, 500$ a used T3/T4, 100$ (will do for now) will look into donor injectors a 100 max (used) etc. One thing though, I'm a certified BMW TECH so wirring dos'nt realy scare me. If the kid is as smarts as he sounds and with UTI training, I'm sure he'll puill it out. I think we should encourage him instead of telling him to go L28T.

Is'nt torque more like two opposed rotating force? If they are both the same the car accelerate and if the car puts more force than the ground trying to move under the tires, this is where a burnout occures? Thus the old saying "HP is for racing, TORQUE is for burnouts* Not bragging, just asking.

Easy, checke the groud on the head light that is dime, it must be broken or corroded and the light grouds itself finding its way trough the other light.

Yes, forgot to mention tha tthis was done only to the rear suspension.

Well, I'v seen something like that a few years back in the SPORTCOMPACTCAR magazine, about the same time that the ford focus came out. They decided to build a rally focus that could go against an european market foci. A particular problem they came up against was wheel travel so, in order to fix this, they added some transvers bars to the cage and horizintally mounted the coilovers in the car. The two shocks where bolted head to head on a pivot so they could move up and down and the other end was bolted to an triangular kinde of a rocker arm with 3 holes in it hole1 is bolted to the same bar as the shocks's heads, 2 is bolted to the shocks's feets and 3 is bolted to a push rod. This may soud complicated at first but really simple: The push rod is in place of the original shock on the spindle, when the wheel hits a bump, it goes up with the pushrod, witch in turns pushes on the rocker arm and make it pivot aroud the point of the triengle bolted to the bar, so, in turns pushes on the shock and VOILÀ, an inboard suspention. I'll try to look trough my old magazines and finde the pics, it's realy neat and I'v tought about the idea a few times myself.

Hi, I was wondering, I have an 73 240, since I have next to no wiring harness at all in my car, is it simpler to take the S130 harness and adapt it or install the complete Z31 harness????

Well, I kinda strayed from the original subject here did'nt I? What I sould have realy said was, that we'll try to glue the parts of the heads together, maybe send it to EXTRUDEHONE, (they force an abrasive paste through a system like water passages, oil gallerys, int./ex. manifolds... to port and polish them.) to get everything smooth inside and then cast it. What do you think. (Jeez, so many ideas, my head is gonna explode, if this works, WHY NOT AN L30DET WITH ALLUMINUM/IRON SLEVVED BLOCK? HAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!! I'm loosin' it.)

Yes but, I said that the guy want to open an machine shop AND he is INTERESTED/taking classes in molding, it's just that he likes building things + carbon fiber wings and fuselage parts (hoods and doors and hatches and...) need a mold. Humm,why not an allu. tube framed floor system that would bolt to the rockers on both sides with an carbon/kevlar covering!!!??? HaHa.

WOW!, can't really help there, this is allready way more than I know about electronic boost controlers but, keep us posted on your progress, souds very interesting and feasable.

Well, this may soud untrue but, a friend of mine has been talking about starting a machine shop for awhile and he's also interested/taking classes in molding, he's into airplanes, they are desining a new prototype where he's working but he thinks that the machined parts are of poor quality and thinks he can do better, hence the machine shop. + one of his childhood friend's uncle just won asomething like 8millions at the loto and giving him a hand to start. Where I'm going with this is that I'm a mechanic and welder and been thinking about starting a buisness for awhile so, I'll be teaming up with him (why should he make only plane parts?) Your projrct seems very interesting to me and I'v been dreaming about it since I' read about it a few years back so, if you don't mind, maybe I'll take a look into it as a "prooving are capabilities as a tuning shop" project. I'm not making any promesses but if all goes well, when the time comes for a long term test, I'll send one your way, at least you'll be able to enjoy your idea.

Sorry, my bad, I meant crank angle sensor I just skipped a letter while typing.

Well, I'd only need one, one with the crack sensoe in the dist., it's for the GM HEI conversion. thanks

Does anyone have a distributor for an 280Z????

I say those orange cobras, with a darker blue interior Here at work, we have an Laguna Secca M3, that comes regularly for servicing, that has an interior like that, it's really nice.

Maybe the weird " sometimes it hold and sometimes it fails" issue is due to the kind of tires you'r using, for people with less sticky tires, when you let go at 3000, your tires skid for a little while, softening the stress in the drive train. For those with supergumballs, well if the tire has an higher breaking point than the clutch guess what? That "not so good for hard lauches" clutch will give way. OR, could it be from the fact that centerforce was braought to life (I think) with the rise of the rice and mainly had their efforts concentrated on drag? That would make their centrifugal weights effective only at stupid high for a "DRIVEN" car no?

Jeez Turbo, I did'nt meant to insult you, it was an idea just like that. Plus, you just said it yourself, you raised the white flag so, why does it bother you so much that somebody else pursue your present course? I tought that maybe by gluing the passages and water jackets maybe with inserts inbetween and tigwelding the outside, it could work. Sorry again.

Well, before I started as mecanic a few years back,I was a wellder, and use to assemble suspention parts for farme equipement and fist, I have to agree with Mr. Coffey, your designe is good but, it's way overbuilt. In fact HE is right on the money with his estimations. One thing you could do, is to build one with only a few surface tacks and then, build a jig aroud it, this time, with de thickest steel you can find. Then, you heat the whole thing with an oxy/propane/acetylene torche up to a "verry dull and dark, when the lights are dimmed red", THEN you weld it. After that, you keep heating it a little bit once in awhile so it won't cool down to fast (it'll release stress in the part and prevent cracks. Or, if the wife is ok with it, you can put it in the kitchen oven at full broil and gradually bring the temp. down.). A big plus with this solution is that it keeps distortion a a minimum + if your desing works right, you can reproduce them easily and sell them. Just MHO.

Where the hell on earth (well, in america) did you get those I whant one so badlly.

Hummm, not sure, they don't mention alluminum anywhere

Well, the best wa y is using your imagination, creat troubbles in your head at night an try to figure out what to check, using witch functions. Then, go to your old rattli'n clapped out daily driver (well at least in my case) and try to figure out all the little glitches that bothered you for a long time but did'nt want to spend money to have someone fix it, you'll discover that most problems in cars today are due to parasite resitance in the ECU's signal circuits . This of cours is after reading at least the "not to do part of the instructions"

does anyone have part numbers for the different calippers cause it seems evry post i read gives different model years for the donnor vehicle. what i want to know: 1-part numbers with each model: s12, s12w and both sw+8s 2- does it come from a pick-up or 4-runner (some peapole refer to a "4x4 pick-up", some, "4-runner" and some, "only 4x4".). It gets confusing after reading all posts. 3-does it come from a 6cyl. or 4cyl. Then we could get all the info in a "toyota calippers FAQ tread" and sticky it in the "Brakes FAQ". Sorry, I don't want to sound stupid or like I can't read but, I'm a french Canadian and can sometimes get mixed up with all those english Z slang.

Wow, I think I just might sell my FLUKE!!!! This seems really nice.

Are you shure? Cause I don't tink that the "e" in L28e and L28et standed for ECCS back in the 80's. Don't want to argue, just asking for better knoledge. P.S.: who was the manufacturer of the firs nissan system, was it BOSCH?

I'll try to take a look with the parts guys at work, BMW probably uses the same stuff as lotus so, we can at least get an price figure. Plus, I get everything at cost.

I have twin DGV 32/36s and don't know **** about carbs anybody know where to look, I'd like the car to run good untill I get my RB30/26 in there.