madkaw

Sorry I don't have a pic for this, but my laptop is in the shop and it's a pain to do on my old desktop. You guys that are familiar with the yoke style brackets on the 79-81 rear calipers should know what I am talking about as far as the plastic guides(spacers, bushings, ect..), what ever you call them, they are the only plastic piece on the cailper brackets. We'll one of them broke on my set up while I was trying to position the caliper back into the bracket. It broke so easy that I'm thinking that they have broken for other folks and are probably missing from other brakes and the folks don't even know it. How important are these and what are they exactly for? It seems to me that the caliper is wedged pretty good in that bracket and can't go anywhere easily. If anything the plastic guides are just that, guides to keep the caliper square in the bracket-correct? Any clue where to get them-probably Nissan only. I actually ordered to calipers from Rock Auto and one came with the complete bracket(5$ extra), which I thought would have the plastic pieces, but NNOOOOOOO, it has everything BUT the plastic guides. Do I even need to worry about it?

My plan was to use por-patch for the rust. I will clean her up the best I can,then use por patch to fill and stop the rust. It seems like the logical repair and I don't see any down side ,unless you guys can think of one. I have already ordered the gold plated molding clips(100$ for the pair). I can get a new windshield installed for 165$ incase I break this one. I bought a tool from NAPA that cuts away the seal, so i think I'm ready to attack the rust. Now I just have to get the daughter to give up the car for a couple of days so i can do this:mrgreen:.

I have been doing some serious searching and I must obviously have a vacuum problem. I put a my mighty vac on the vacuum tank and it didn't seem to hold vacuum well and the one way valve in the tank didn't seem to work. I had an extra tank and tested it and the one way valve worked. So my assumption is that the boost is pressurizing everything since the one way valve was not holding. I have installed the other tank , but now i am confused about the hose hook up. The FSM doesn't show any set -up like mine. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I do have an extra tank. I have 2 lines running from the firewall, but I have manual climate control. Please look at my pic and tell me what you think. My tank looks like the one in the FSM, but with the addition of the other tank

Well I got my reman turbo on and took her for a test spin. I thought with all the things I found wrong with the the last turbo(loose connection at compressor side-WAY LOOSE), the car would feel stronger, but it doesn't. Then I noticed that my guage is not indicating any boost, or much of anything. I have no idea how this is measured-electrically, vaccum, pressure I would think, but how does the guage get its input. I looked all over my schematics and I can't even find it in the wiring. I look at the engine or intake and just scratch my head. Please help out a turbo newby so I can try to figure out what happen to my guage.

Zul8tr, thanks for the offer. The down pipe studs all broke off when trying to disconnect the collector. I plan on replacing the the exhaust soon enough and doing away with that downpipe all together. For now, I just welded the collector flange to the ends of the broken bolts to hold it together. Actually I couldn't even separate the Jpipe from the rest of the pipe since they were rusted together and welded from the heat. The turbo came today and I already have it installed as well as that crappy exhaust. Now I am just waiting for the new oil line to arrive. I was disappointed with the turbo since I had to chase 2 of the threads on the exhaust side before installing the downpipe. I hope this is not an indicator of the workmanship. I did call them and told them to ding QC in the head for not doing their job. Hey, are you going to Nashville on the 27th.

Blaylock did offer an e-mail quoye of 425$ to rebuild my turbo. They didn't give me a time estimate though.

Sound logic Larry. If I repair the the rust areas I will be using por-15 to repair the rust. When I do the color, it will be after the windshield is installed. As of now, all the paint around the windshield is nothing but rust bubbles now.

Larry, Are you saying upon original installation the primer for the windshield urethane screws up the paint. It seems as many s130's that have this issue, that there is a common reason from the factory installation. Surely the car is painted and then the windshield is installed from the factory. Or is it the fact that the moldings trap water that causes corrosion under the moldings and slowly creeps out around the edges. I have aslo read up on the urethane and i realize the car will have to sit after installation-thanks

165$ was for a new windshield installed. If I could get some verification from other s130 owners that have done this, and that there was no rust found under the windshield seal, I might let it go and just clean around the windshield . Lord knows it would make this job easier. I need to get the lower molding off and start sanding and picking at it ,and see what I find. I am just trying to have all my ducks in a row incase of worst scenerio. I wonder what causes the rust in this location?

I would like to think there is no rust under the sealed area, but I can't take that chance. The car does leak water at the base of the windshield(my best guess). I might find some pin holes when I remove the lower molding, but I would hate to go thru all this work and not fix everything. Like I said, i found someone to install a new windshield for 165$, so even if I break the original, it won't be too bad. I plan on removing the windshield and either sandblasting area or wire brushing the frame work and then coat with por-15 patch. The patch stuff should fill any pin holes and stop the rust at the same time. Hopefully the damage isn't bad enough that I will weld filling-but that can be done to. I will try to remember to take picture to document the carnage.

I'm not sure what you mean about the plastic trim-there is stainless trim. You can find memebers who are selling the trim reasonable, I bought a complete set for 15$. Now the trim is held in by clips that are on a molding that you have to order from Black Dragon or Nissan, your looking at 100$ for the pair-ouch!!!

Well I did some calling around and found someone that will install a new windshield for 165$. So even if I break mine I won't feel too bad to pay someone 165$ to come and install a new one:)

I have been doing some searching and I am suprised to find so little info on such a common problem with these cars. Anyone want to share their experiences(or nightmares) when dealing with this type of rust issue. I am contemplating pulling the windshield myself, but it does look like a daunting task. I am also not having much luck finding a replacement glass-incase I bust mine. I don't believe I can repair the rust properly without actually removing the glass. It seems that removing th glass is probably the toughest part of this whole deal since they are glued in place-thanks nissan. I wouldn't hesitate if this was a replaceable seal, but cutting out the windshield sounds messy.

Well MJM recieved my business today. I really don't know much about them except for talking to them . Their price(495$) was better then anyones and they actually had one on the shelf and shipped the same day.( core charger is high 300$, but they hold for 30 days for you to ship your to them) Most places I was looking weeks to get my turbo rebuilt. The shops that quoted me 2 day rebuilds were 200$ buck more. The warranties seem to be about the same -90 days. Msa had a very good price but they had nothing on hand, so I would have to send it to CA(3 days) , then they would send it out for overhaul (3 days) and ship it back(3 days). None of this is a good situation for a daily driver. Several places I sent e-mails for price quotes-no response, I guess business is so good they don't need anymore. Now to try and fix my down pipe. By the way, Courtesy Nissan said I got the last oil supply line in the country:shock:

I am looking for suggestions(and prices if you have them) for rebuilt turbocharger units for zxt cars. I have tried to contact the following Gearhead-649$, needs my core-2-3 days rebuilt Turbo power-649$ need my core-2-3 day rebuilt quality turbo chargers-? Blaylock-left message-? MJM-? Gpop- 12 day turnaround right now MSA- no cores, need mine -decent price I need some suggestions guys

I think my plan will be to clean it up and put it back together with a new PCV and see what she does. Now that I have eliminated some bad stuff like the fuel pressure deal, I can start narrowing things down. Meanwhile I will start shopping form a turbo.

Let me throw this fact into the mix also. I just finished fixing a excessive fuel pressure problem with this car. My return line was clogging and fuel pressure was off the scale of my 100psi tester. I know excessive fuel in the combustion chamber can wash out the sealing effect of the rings, can this be the case with a fuel injected engine?

Yes the turbo has side play, but the car runs good with no noises coming from the turbo. I know I am probably avoiding the reality that I will have to replace it, but the path of the oil leads me to think that it is being drawn into the turbo from the vent. I will admit right now that my knowledge of the principles of turbocharging are a bit shakey so thus the questions. 510six-the way I read the FSM the normal path for the venting in the pcv would be a vacuum at the line in the AFM boot. So if the turbo was spewing oil back into the afm boot the line would be sucking it back into the valve cover? I will be replacing the pcv valve , but it seemed to be operating ok. There is no oil in the line from the crankcase to the pcv. As far as how much oil, it looks like it has been sprayed into those areas, but not enough to pool. I first discovered the oil on the spark plugs doing a routine check on how the new plugs looked. The PO had champion plugs in it when I first got the car and I believe the AFM was shot becuase the plugs looked very carbon fouled(it ran like sh%t and died at intersections) At that time I did NOT notice oil on the plugs. After getting the new AFM and fixing many other items(see my project thread-bought my daughter a 280zxt) and after a few hard runs(you know dads) I saw wet oil on the threads of the plugs. The oil was burning off the tips and there was some discoloration on the plugs, but I was also running a ton of injector cleaner also. No visble smoke coming out of the exhaust that I have seen. I tried looking into the inlet of the turbo and it looked clean and I couldn't feel any oily residue when I was checking for side play. I might clean everything down and get rid of the oil and externally vent the valve cover to a catch can and see what happens. Mean while I guess I better look for a turbo replacement-any suggestions?

I don't believe you have recalled correctly. There is no direct pathway from the crankcase breather to the turbo inlet. The crankcase goes directly to the pcv at the bottom of the intake and it is dry. I don't believe I have cracked pistons ----CR's are right on. I realized that I am lacking info 81zxt automatic, 91k miles 135psi across the board engine is stock

I started a thread about oil on my spark plugs , but I didn't get much response. The oil was primarily wet on the threads of the plugs, but i didn't believe the engine was burning that much oil since it doesn't smoke-period. (81zxt automatic,91k miiles) So today I was doing more searching for reasons for a bad idle problem and I wanted to look at the turbo so I took off the boot for the AFM. What I found was a boot with no defects except that it a lot of oil in it from the breather line aft. So from the vent line of the valve cover back towards the turbo was wet oil. Well I decided to take off the PCV valve and look at it, but the J pipe is kind of in the way so I decided to take it off too. What I found was that the connection pipe from the Jpipe and the compressor was not even tight. In fact the clamp closest to the turbo was just kind of slid on there-that can't be good. The other clamp was barely snug. So what effects do you think that caused to the engine running? I also found plent of oil in the Jpipe all the way up into the throttle body. I was previously concerned the turbo was bad a spewing oil into the system, but I think it is being sucked out of my valve cover. What would cause that? The pcv valve seemed okay as far as working like a one way valve, but I am going to replace it anyway. Would that loose connection at the turbo cause a vacuum issue? I also grabbed the compressor wheel and it definitely had side play in it, but it didn't make any noise and the car performed decent for all its problems. I figure I had to be loosing some power with that loose connection at the turbo. I don't know if I can afford to buy a turbo right now, so what would be the worse scenerio if it decided to let go? I know I am asking a lot of questions here, but I am trying to get this car reliable for my daughter and I am making real headway, but I have to figure out this oil issue. I would greatly appreciate some insight guys.

Well there is no bullet hole in my harness, but I wouldn't be suprised to find one. Actually the second day, or round at troubleshooting was more successful. Understanding how to use my ohm scale on my new multimeter was a big help:redface: I also had an issue with the numbers for the wires not being the same a s the FSM since the AFM is a rebuild from msa-I guess. The CHTS would only test properly if I used a ground from the ecu harness, not the body ground they asked for, which I thought was strange. Looking at the wiring schematic I found that the AFM and CHTS ground are shared so I used that pin as my ground and the CHTS would test properly. I was also able to successfully adjust my TPS. It was way off of FSM specs, but I won't know how well adjusted until I start her up again.I still have other checks, but I have a bigger problem to deal with now-oil in the intake system. Time for another thread:mrgreen:

Okay guys i am trying to do this the right way. I got a better multitester and I have my FSM to guide me. I started right from the beginning to do the component checks of the FI in my 81zxt. I'm starting to get worried that none of my ohm tests at the plug end of the ecu are good. I checked my throttle switch at the ecu and it fails, but at the component ,I was able to get it to adjust and test. Same goes for my AFM. I can get the correct reading at the AFM, but not at the ECU. I can't believe all my connectors are bad and I did clean them once already. I did the inspection preparation with only one reserve, i wasn't sure what they meant when refering to the S terminal at the starter( I disconnected the spade terminal) . I did ground my O2 and disconnected my negative terminal--am I missing something. This car has 91k miles and is pretty clean, even the engine compartment is clean. As far as connectors, I replaced the one to my CHTS and I get the same problem of good component-bad harness. I was going to replace my TPS connector, but I have a 3 hole type and my replacement connectors are 2 holes. My harness connector(s) are different then the FSM shows. I actually have 3 different plus going into the ecu. The car idles rough and stumbles a bit on acceleration and that is why I am trying to go thru everything on this car. Would the car even run if the ecu was not getting any readings from the components?

From a guy in Cincinatti

Thanks for all the replies guys , but I figured it out. Obstruction in the return pipe in the fuel sending unit. There was no reason to suspect this earlier since the sending unit looked new with NO visible rust at any of the orifices. It's just one of those deals where the car says--gotcha:-o Now I can concentrate on getting the car to run smoother! By the way, a fuel pressure guage is an essential tool to have when troubleshooting these cars-and their cheap. I paid 150$ for a walbro install before I bought a 35$ fuel pressure test kit-dumb.

Would you believe that the return line was clogged in the fuel sending unit. After seeing the 100psi on the return side i know I missed something. I have had that same fuel sending unit out probably 3 times and you can see by the pic that it looks brand new. You will also see where I cut the return line to get at the obstruction. I cannot tell you exactly what it was, but I am betting it was somekind of muddgobber from a bug who built a nest in there. I couldn't get at with a piece of wire because it was in the curve of the pipe, so I just cut it off. The passage was completely blocked off, I don't know how the car ran this long