madkaw

While you guys are sound asleep I will be driving across country in my 6000hp hotrod. It sounds glamorous doesn't it, but I rather be sleeping. Thankfully I get to do 60mph with this trip which makes things go faster and stops a little more fun. I posted a view that I will have at about 6am-yes i am facing east in this picture-I should be just waking up but instead I will just fantasizing about a pillow and rest-hey it's a job and a good one I know. What guy wouldn't love handling 6000hp all night:mrgreen:

Your right, a lot of folks don't do the math and think the duals are overkill, but it is smaller then a single 3" pipe. The duals are a lot of work and I hope it is all I want it to be, because it slowed my project down a lot.

I wish I could tell you, but my car is not finished. The car is at the paint booth now, then it will probably be months before I hear my fantasy exhaust. I just thought I might be the first to make a dual exhaust with a crossover pipe for the L6. I have never seen one before and the X pipes seem to do well for scavenging, so what the hell. I wam ending the exhaust with some cheapy glasspacks(12") on either end. This little fantasy has cost me a lot of time and money when you consider that you have to change around your fuel cell arrangement to have symetrical duals out the back. With no basis to go on, I am taking a guess on how this work and sound. 2" pipe also makes for a bit of a challenge because there are more options for 2.5" I had to fab my own X pipe since I couldn't find a 2" prefabbed. I figured dual 2" wouldn't be much bigger then a 3" single, so it's not overkill.

I think 2.5" would be a bit big for stockish motor, but I'm no expert. I went with 2"

msa has then too. Ask for them.

My guess is that the oil is as original as the car. Time to order some synthetic I guess and rearrange my fuel lines a little further away from the diff. Also a good excuse to buy one of those laser temp guns. If it was my car, the 5speed would be in there, but it's my daughters car so it doesn't bother her, except when the Walbro is screaming and she asks me "is that normal":eek:,

By the way, I forgot to mention that the car is an automatic. I haven't had the car very long and have only taken a few 50+ milers with it. It is my daughters car and she does a little city driving with it mostly. It has been fine around town, never noticed anything unusual and the fuel pump was fine, but a couple of longer highway runs here lately and we noticed this issue. It concerned me that the gas mileage was no better on the highway, but the rpms seem a little high at cruise, like the automatic needs another gear. I guess I will need to do some searching, but wasn't all the turbos 3.54's, but the auto was an r180. I guess once again I have an issue that no one else had experienced-based on the lack of responses.

This might be showing my ignorance, but how hot do stock diffs get. The reason I ask is because I noticed when cruisin some highway miles with my 81 280zxt and I can actually feel heat on the floor inside the center console. I figured it was my catalytic converter getting hot ,because it is probably the original and is probably getting plugged up(replacement exhaust is in the works). Anyhow, my daughter came back from a 50 mile highway cruise and she pulled into the driveway and you could here my new walbro really whining, which it never did before. I broke out the pressure guage to check pressure since I had a previous pressure problem, and the pump checked out, but still was whining. When I went to diconnect the power to the fuel pump I notice that the fuel tank was very warm-almost hot. I got under the car and started snooping around and I grabbed the diff and it is red hot to the touch. It is hot enough to warm up my fuel tank and I think bake the fuel line above my Walbro-the rubber line was feeling pretty mushy for a new line. Can this be normal??? I checked the gear oil level and it is where it should be. The car drives okay, but I think the gas mileage on the highway should be better. The gas mileage is 19-20 mpg in the city, but it isn't any better on the highway. Am I over reacting here, I guess I have never grabbed a diff to check the temperature after a cruise. The exhaust muffler, catalytic and pipe were all cooler then my diff. i realize it would hold the heat longer, but it still seems way to hot for just some highway cruisin.

I haven't done a whole lot to the car lately, but have made some progress. I have hit some stumbling blocks related to having an old car , like not finding oem parts. I found out the hard way that some parts for the rear brakes are not available anymore, so I will have to try and find used stuff somewhere. I was able to fabricate something that would work on the rear caliper brackets to replace the plastic shims that are supposed to be there, but I hope to find the proper parts soon. Anyway, I got rid of the clunk that the caliper makes when these pieces are not on there. The brakes work great on this car and I hope to have the parking brake working again as soon as I get some real time to work on the car. My family goes on vacation to Orlando shortly(I'm not going-tired of Mickey), so I will get 5 days of Datsun in on her car. I plan on redoing her windshield and fabricating a 3" exhaust for the car. I am putting my shopping list together for the pipe and muffler. Looks like I will have almost 400$ just in the exhaust. That would include making my own downpipe and 3" all the way back to the Magnaflow muffler. This will be a big job for me-hope it goes well. I think the catalytic converter is clogged on her car, so this needs to be done soon. The windshield will also be a stress maker. My plan is to remove all the SS moldings and tape off the windshield and then sandblast the windshield panel. With the car all closed up it will be easier to keep the sand out of where it doesn't need to be. This will be easier then trying to tape off that big opening with the windshield out. After that I will take the windshield out and assess the rest of the windshield flange area. I will use Por-15 patch to fill any pitholes and to rust proof the area. I will spray por-15 along the rusted areas outside the window channel area(the roof basically), After letting everything cure I will reinstall the windshield and toucch up paint-sounds easy doesn't it:eek: I will try and document everything with pics

I need the rear calipers off of a zx from 79-81. I need the complete assembly -bracket and all hardware, regardless of whether they are rebuilt or not. Please send pics to sfinnerty@indy.rr.com I have paypal.

I have a excellent pedal box, but I will need to check on the pedals. E-mail me for pics sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

I second that. The M/C probably needs bleeding.

WOW, I can' believe I am the only one that has had this issue. I called MSA and they said that this is a discontinued item by nissan. So I guess your just Fu&%ed if these pieces break. I guess I will have to improvise for now, but I don't like improvising when it comes to brakes.

I was able to get some pictures posted--please please look at the brake forum.

Hey guys I'm in a pickle. These pics are from my daughters 81 280zxt. The rear calipers needed to be replaced. The problem is that the rebuild kits did Not come with the plastic slides or bushings that you see in the pictures. These seem to eliminate up and down play with the caliper in the yoke plate. These did not come the hardware kit or a complete rebuilt caliper and yoke assembly. If you notice my existing caliper does not use or have the horseshoe shaped retaining spring that comes with the hardware kit. Is this spring clip supposed to replace the plastic guides? I have it installed and it does not seem to prevent the caliper play in the yoke. This play causes a clunking sound when the brakes are tapped slightly. Maybe I have the spring installed wrong. The FSM does not show the plastic guides and it does not show the proper installation of the spring clip. I need help-some pictures would help. A simple brake job has turned into a royal PITA!

I know a picture says a thousand words -so here you go. These are the plastic spacers I am refering to-that are NOT found in the manual or a new hardware kit. As you see from the pic they are maybe in place of the retainer spring that I got in the kit and are not installed on this caliper. Okay , so maybe I can't paste a picture.

Looks like I need a pic

Sorry I don't have a pic for this, but my laptop is in the shop and it's a pain to do on my old desktop. You guys that are familiar with the yoke style brackets on the 79-81 rear calipers should know what I am talking about as far as the plastic guides(spacers, bushings, ect..), what ever you call them, they are the only plastic piece on the cailper brackets. We'll one of them broke on my set up while I was trying to position the caliper back into the bracket. It broke so easy that I'm thinking that they have broken for other folks and are probably missing from other brakes and the folks don't even know it. How important are these and what are they exactly for? It seems to me that the caliper is wedged pretty good in that bracket and can't go anywhere easily. If anything the plastic guides are just that, guides to keep the caliper square in the bracket-correct? Any clue where to get them-probably Nissan only. I actually ordered to calipers from Rock Auto and one came with the complete bracket(5$ extra), which I thought would have the plastic pieces, but NNOOOOOOO, it has everything BUT the plastic guides. Do I even need to worry about it?

My plan was to use por-patch for the rust. I will clean her up the best I can,then use por patch to fill and stop the rust. It seems like the logical repair and I don't see any down side ,unless you guys can think of one. I have already ordered the gold plated molding clips(100$ for the pair). I can get a new windshield installed for 165$ incase I break this one. I bought a tool from NAPA that cuts away the seal, so i think I'm ready to attack the rust. Now I just have to get the daughter to give up the car for a couple of days so i can do this:mrgreen:.

I have been doing some serious searching and I must obviously have a vacuum problem. I put a my mighty vac on the vacuum tank and it didn't seem to hold vacuum well and the one way valve in the tank didn't seem to work. I had an extra tank and tested it and the one way valve worked. So my assumption is that the boost is pressurizing everything since the one way valve was not holding. I have installed the other tank , but now i am confused about the hose hook up. The FSM doesn't show any set -up like mine. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I do have an extra tank. I have 2 lines running from the firewall, but I have manual climate control. Please look at my pic and tell me what you think. My tank looks like the one in the FSM, but with the addition of the other tank

Well I got my reman turbo on and took her for a test spin. I thought with all the things I found wrong with the the last turbo(loose connection at compressor side-WAY LOOSE), the car would feel stronger, but it doesn't. Then I noticed that my guage is not indicating any boost, or much of anything. I have no idea how this is measured-electrically, vaccum, pressure I would think, but how does the guage get its input. I looked all over my schematics and I can't even find it in the wiring. I look at the engine or intake and just scratch my head. Please help out a turbo newby so I can try to figure out what happen to my guage.

Zul8tr, thanks for the offer. The down pipe studs all broke off when trying to disconnect the collector. I plan on replacing the the exhaust soon enough and doing away with that downpipe all together. For now, I just welded the collector flange to the ends of the broken bolts to hold it together. Actually I couldn't even separate the Jpipe from the rest of the pipe since they were rusted together and welded from the heat. The turbo came today and I already have it installed as well as that crappy exhaust. Now I am just waiting for the new oil line to arrive. I was disappointed with the turbo since I had to chase 2 of the threads on the exhaust side before installing the downpipe. I hope this is not an indicator of the workmanship. I did call them and told them to ding QC in the head for not doing their job. Hey, are you going to Nashville on the 27th.

Blaylock did offer an e-mail quoye of 425$ to rebuild my turbo. They didn't give me a time estimate though.

Sound logic Larry. If I repair the the rust areas I will be using por-15 to repair the rust. When I do the color, it will be after the windshield is installed. As of now, all the paint around the windshield is nothing but rust bubbles now.

Larry, Are you saying upon original installation the primer for the windshield urethane screws up the paint. It seems as many s130's that have this issue, that there is a common reason from the factory installation. Surely the car is painted and then the windshield is installed from the factory. Or is it the fact that the moldings trap water that causes corrosion under the moldings and slowly creeps out around the edges. I have aslo read up on the urethane and i realize the car will have to sit after installation-thanks