madkaw

pm'd you

I have another request guys. My t-top is missing one of the plastic guide pin(the black plastic piece that guides the t-top into the rubber seal, there are 4 on each top). Maybe someone has a junk t-top that is broke or cracked that would pull the plastic tips off for me. This car is for mt duaghter and I need to get this car together soon, so any help would be great. I will paypal you for your time and pieces-thanks. Also wouldn't mind finding an original antenna in good shape.

Okay guys, I ordered the fender, grill and rear bumper from Danny's Datsun. I hate paying all that shipping, but Danny has always done me well.

I have the pressure switch. I am still looking for: 280zx plastic grill 280zx passenger fender t-top weatherstrip t-top parts-I just need one of the black plastic guide tips on the t-top plastic holder for the hood prop rod(snaps into radiator support rear bumper-need metal backing only-no rust buckets please please send response and pics to: sfinnerty@indy.rr.com thanks

Well I have a new project now. I couldn't resist when I saw the ad in craigslist. It was kind of a selfish motive-- since I wanted to get a hold of a turbo motor to have for my car later--, but I e-mailed the ad to my daughter at I.U. and asked her if she would drive something like this. I didn't know if a 19 year old would want to be seen in a car like this , but it was a nice 20 footer and it was an automatic with AC. She responded, "are you kidding me", like I was getting her a Ferrari:) It had some issues, but the car only had 90K miles on it. We took it for a drive and it it felt solid, but ran like s#*t. The kid told me that the Nissan dealer said it was the AFM, but he wasn't putting anymore money into it because he was going to college. He said he was probably going to cry when the car left because he loved the looks he got in his black t-tops. Well I took the car home and the "project" has started. I need to get this car going and reliable in the next 2 months. The good parts are: New tires and nearly perfect snowflake rims Low mileage clean not rusty eng comp. Interior not tore up too badly-normal wear. valve cover off -Solid Lifters-cam looks beautiful Rust on body is managable The Bad The engine ran like s#*t Bad afm 200$ Bad oil leak somewhere-I believe it was the oil pressure switch-35$ Water pump bad-the kid was close to a break down-that pump was shot Rubber brake lines toast Right caliper sticking-even though it's new T-tops leaking Rust in bad places-windshield-YUK Frame rails beat to hell Prior body work from collision done by hacks There's more but I need to go. I only hope to make a reliable daily driver for my daughter that looks cool. I gave her a run down 95 Mercury Sable in HS, and I am trying to make up for that, because I am so proud of her. I'll post some more pics later

I would only use the POR 15 as instructed. Another words, don't try and mix chemicals. Use the marine clean, if you haven't tried it yet you will be impressed. It is the best degreaser I have ever used. I have read a lot of guys have had problems using a different prep method then as instructed. I have used por15 with good success. My only complaint is top coating with a chassis coat. I had a difficult time brushing on this finish and it looking even. Plus you only have a short window of time to topcoat after using por15 unless you use there primer later.

What is the best method you guys have found to jack up this car. With the front crossmember so far under there I am trying to figure out the best type jack to buy. My frame rails are already beat up from jacking the car( I assume). The rear of the car is almost worse. Can you use the radiator support to lift the car, it looks much beffier then a hs30.

Okay guys, I am new to the ZX world and I am trying to figure out the best jack ,and jacking method, for these type cars. Can you jack the car using the frame under the core support? Is it heavy duty enough? It looks like the P.O. used the frame rails all the time and they are smashed as hell (could be combination of rust and jacking). The front crossmember is so far under the car I'm not sure what jack would be long and low enough to reach. Any input would be appreciated.

I took a pic of the switch so there is no confusion with the oil pressure sender

Looking for a passenger fender-must be in good shape Oil pressure switch Rear bumper- metal backing only plastic grill facia that fastens underneath the front bumper Automatic shifter assembly windshield Rt pillar chrome trim sfinnerty@indy.rr.com

My engineering is fun and I get to travel, Sorry I had to do that.

So has something changed in the format. I will respond to a thread and look for it under new posts and it's not there-where did it go? Is there a delay now, I swore that right after I posted I could go to new posts to see that the thread was bumped to the top.

Well can anyone steer me towards a reputable shop that can turn down a flywheel? I can't imagine with all the performance stuff that has been done by members on this site that there isn't a good reference for a flywheel lightening.

The bump was because the post didn't show up when I looked at 'new posts', so I thought I would bump it to see if it came up. maybe I should have waited longer. I want to lighten a flywheel and I noticed TEP does that, so I wanted ask to see if there was anyone that has dealt with them-especially for flywheel servicing?

bump

Any feedback on TEP-Top End performance. I was considering flywheel lighteneing service from them, but haven't found much info about them from the Z sites. Any references or warnings would be appreciated.

Man I can't wait to get my little 2.4 going and i hope it sounds nearly that good. It would be interesting to see you put that car on the drag strip just to see if all those numbers equate to a decent time on the 1/4 mile. Sorry if its been asked already, but what flywheel are you running?

My glass packs were 12$ a side. I cannot comment on the noise level since i am not running yet, but I think running straight pipes to save a buck doesn't make sense. I would try and fit some small glasspacks at least. I am going to run a crossover from my 6-to 2 setup to help eliminate the drone I read about. I want a healthy tone from my inline, I think it sounds good, but I don't want overbearing .

Well actually he posted OR JUST THERE ENGINES

l24 , ain't it pretty

I bought this guy. It takes a little work to get it to spray right. You are spraying glue you know I bought a gallon of glue figuring I would go thru a lot of it. I tries using spray can glue, but this works much better at being more precise with the spray.

My goal was to cover all the plastic pieces also, but it is harder then you think. The rear quarter window pieces are a complex with the window set "in" effect. I couldn't get the Joanne stuff to stretch good enough without tearing. Look at the "allsport vinyl" on that website. It's not an exact match but it would stretch much better. I need to order a sample to see how it matches up. I tore up a lot of the Joannes stuff trying to make it stretch far enough, so I need to try something else. Those books are helpful, but it's trial and error my man. That overhead piece I covered didn't have any foam under it, even though I do have some foam available. I left that step out to see if I could even do this endevour. Also, I fiberglasses the back of all my panels first so they would hold together during this process. I just layed one layer of cloth over them and called it good. It should keep them from cracking anymore. You could use later model panels that are thicker to eliminate this stage, but the early panels need the strength IMHO.

Here's a linky to the place I have dealt with. better prices then Joanne fabrics, but if your not sure what you want you will have to get samples from them. Joanne has a perfect match for the vinyl pattern in the Z car, I am quite sure your "Auto Trim Store" has it too, for less. they also have some great looking carbon fiber looking vinyl which I have considered. I would also suggest their glue gun and glue(by the gallon) if your going to do it right. I started mine last summer , but ran out of warm days. This is strictly and outside job for me with the fumes. The pic is of the overhead panel I did with the Joanne vinyl. You will find that joannes stuff will not stretch as good as some of the better 4 way stuff, but this simple shape it worked well. http://www.yourautotrim.com/

I had RK back in 1990 I guess when my employer still paid for it. I had terrible vision-like 20-400 or something like that. Well the RK got me to 20-150 which is really a major improvement. I didn't feel so dependent on glasses. My doc said that in a feww years the laser will be perfected and I would be able to touch the RK up to get to 20-20. Well 18 years later I went back to the same doc who had his own laser center and we did the prk. I actually had no options but PRK because I had my flap sliced up by the original rk and he said it would just fall apart. He says the PRK is superior anyway, just much more pain and aggravation-and it was. I now have 20-15 in both eyes-amazing. Once again though-Tony is right. There were conditions that I thought were caused by my contacts , but are actually because of dry eye.

John, you make agood point, that is why I added about the porsche panels. Though the porsche panels were not exterior body, they still were a crappy fit. If you can buy anything from the original manufacturer , that is the way to go. It might be way more expensive, but it will fit right.